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Just to close this one out -- this was a cracked flex plate (or flywheel as we call 'em). I had it replaced by a very experienced transmission guy. Not cheap but I'm sure I'll get another few years out of this van. Apparently these flex plates are a known issue in the Gen5 chrysler vans. In my...

Cooper Cobras come 205/70r14 and 215/70r14. I have a set of 215s on my mostly stock 72 Swinger (14x5.5 oem rallyes). They look cool and there's no rubbing.

Why do previous owners always use the wrong screws????!!!!!

I got a very similar looking kit with the 70-style repop grille that I put on my 72 Swinger. It also didn't come with a diagram but I do remember that the installation went very smoothly and that it was pretty obvious where all the screws went. If I remember correctly, that longer screw went in...

Leave what you have -- it's fine. Just make sure that air can enter and exit the top of the bottle -- drill a 1/16" hole in the top of of the bottle and you're good.

Other than @Dana67Dart, I can't believe there are so many goofy answers from smart people on this thread. It's a very simple concept: When liquid in the cooling system expands, it comes under pressure. When that pressure goes higher than the rating of the radiator cap, it needs someplace to go...

No vibration. Aside from the sound, all function is normal.

At this point, it seems certain that one of the timing chains is knocking around in there (maybe due to a failed tensioner or guide?). The chain obviously hasn't broken yet (it runs smooth and no code). I'm not going to attempt this myself, so I'm going to bring it to a mechanic tomorrow to see...

* My last tank and current tank of fuel are E85. I cannot imagine that would be responsible for this, but worth mentioning. * If it were a loose/busted lifter, wouldn't I be getting a dummy light or code? * If it were the oil pump, wouldn't I get a be getting a dummy light or code?

@Trojmn, you make a compelling point -- its just a car and it can be fixed! But somehow I'm not as motivated to dig into a 2014 minivan as I am to dig into my 72 Swinger. ( Not that the 72 ever needs it -- its ridiculously reliable.) I just have to figure out what exactly is wrong with the van...

Thanks for the feedback @Trojmn. I might take it to my trusty local mechanic to ask him what's wrong with it, but I'm not prepared to spend much on a 115k mile T&C. Much more inclined to go down to the dealership and buy a new van (not sure whether I'd go with a Chrysler or a Toyota). This is...

Yeah no, the sound persisted even when i took the belt off - meaning it’s not tensioner, idler, A/C, alt.

Well crap. I swapped out the alt and that wasn't what is making the sound this time. Then I took the serpentine belt off and started up the engine, and sure enough the rattle is still there. I fear this poor beloved van has something wrong that's not worth fixing. I might be heading to the...

Hi. I drive a 72 Swinger, but I have a question about my other car -- 2014 Town & Country 3.6 with 115k on it. Six months ago, the battery light came on and the battery went dead. It was the original battery (!) and the alternator was bad, so I got a new battery and swapped the alt with a...

Like @DartGTDan said above. You'll probably want to look for a 15/16" bore MC for a better feel/less effort braking if you go manual on this. If you decide to put in a power booster, you'll want the 1" bore MC.

Sounds like a job for the stock 72-and-earlier Kelsey Hayes front disc setup, which had SBP hubs. I'm sure you'd be able to collect all the parts for less than the price of a fancy new aftermarket setup. I have the original KH setup on my 72 swinger - no power booster and a 1" bore Master...

My talented neice drew a beautiful picture of my 72 Swinger as a gift for me!

OK -- all good guys -- let's not bury the answer. I just wanted to update that I finally fixed this with help from Team FABO. Anybody searching this problem in the forums should know that the stock pickup has to touch the bottom of the stock pan for it to work right. Also -- it's nice to not...

Still resolved. Filled with 5 quarts (just hits the top line on the dipstick). I did about an hour of mixed driving with a few hard curves today and didn't see the oil light come on except for the ordinary momentary time it's on after starting it cold. The moral of the story: In the stock...

I did temporarily plumb in a oil pressure gauge a year ago. What did it tell me? Exactly what the idiot light was telling me. When fully warm, it was showing a range of about 25-60 psi depending on the RPM (idiot light OFF). When I went around a corner it would dip to 0-15 for half a second...

Its been about a year, but I finally got this fixed. I was procrastinating because I dreaded the idea of getting my car on jack stands, getting on the floor and pulling my oil pan, putting in a new pickup, and doing a good job of sealing the pan. So I finally bought a new pickup and pan seal...

Whatever state of flatness you get it to, just make sure that your pickup actually contacts the bottom (maybe even with 1/8" tension) when you install it. I learned that pickups don't like to "dangle" in the pan (at least on 318s) -- when I pounded out dents in my 318 pan, I didn't realize that...

Thanks for the suggestions! Ejector button is cool (though a bit goofy) but it opens up the idea of what kind of other cig-lighter-covers are out there. Shift light may be cool for some with more stout cars, but not for my stock-ish 72 Swinger/318 2bbl/904/7.25 driver. An extra security...

I'm cosmetically reconditioning the standard dash in my 72 Swinger. Everything works -- ammeter, gas gauge, temp gauge, speedo, brake & oil dummy lights, and the light and wiper switches -- except for the 1" round seat belt light below the gas gauge. And I'm not going to be restoring its...

Southwest Reproductions makes a kit. Look Up part MN 3071 on Classic Industries. I'm sure you could piece it together for cheaper, but it is available all in one pack.

Rock Auto says they have them. SBP 10" Rear Drums -- they don't have the Darth Vader helmet flanges like the originals, but they are a good fit on my 72 swinger with SBP 7.25" rear. More Information for CENTRIC 12363044

I have one of those cheaper ones sitting in the box but I haven't installed it yet. I've just learned to read my demented gauge in which the last 1/4 tank is actually about 13 gallons. I'll put it in at some point. What's so scammy about the meter match?

For anybody still interested in these, I have a for sale thread in the Exterior section. I've sent out 9 sets so far and still have 11 sets to sell. Mine shows some relief from the old lettering beneath the sticker - something that can be remedied by sanding the surface before applying the sticker.

I just sent out a few sets and responded with tracking# to those of you who bought these. As mentioned, the stickers will need to be cut to size. Here's what I suggest: Measure the recessed area inside the frame of the old emblem -- mine was 85mm x 15 mm. I cut using a ruler and exacto knife...

I updated the post -- I meant to say $10/set of 2. If interested, please send me a PM