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I assume all new parts? Just remind the machine shop to install the bearing retainer before pressing the bearing on!

The catwhiskers have to come out, and the U-channel weatherstrip at the top of the door frame has to come out too, to allow the divider to move forward. Also, your car is a sedan, not a hardtop. :lol:

That divider between the door glass and fixed vent glass has to come loose. It has a screw up top usually under the weatherstrip, and a bolt down below. Once the vent assembly is loose, tip the top of the divider toward the front and the bottom of the divider toward the rear. This will allow the...

That's pretty much the definition of over the counter. It didn't come from the factory on a vehicle.

The crossover allows exhaust to pass through to the other side when the heat riser is closed. It also heats the choke spring and keeps the carb from icing up under certain conditions. If you don't need those features, sure, block it off. A metal intake gasket will do the job.

Is a clock mount on a C-body the same? Any numbers on the part?

The bolts holding the control valve to the steering gear housing.

Both hoses attach to the control valve. The O-rings go between it and the steering gear housing.

If they're both 4 1/2", yes, but the center hole is probably different. The wheel offset could be too.

I don't know anyone who has the main wiring harness connector for the ignition switch. Maybe try some of the wiring harness manufacturers like M&H. Otherwise you may have to get one off a used harness or buy a new harness.

Yup, Same as the Dart and my '66 Barracuda and '66 Valiant.

Let's see that fan. Some don't do a good enough job. What diameter? How close is it to the radiator? What is the timing set at now? It sure can effect cooling if it's too retarded. A live temp gauge to see what the actual temp is would help too. Do you have an overflow tank?

What year and model are you working with?

I assume you mean the lever on the column between the firewall and the coupler. Even floor shift transmission have that in 1970 for the column/key lockout feature. There was linkage that come up from the transmission that attached to that lever. When the transmission was shifted into reverse (I...

O rings need to be oil resistant, so, I'd get a kit made for that application. There is a spool valve inside the control valve assembly. Start out by centering it as best as you can before starting the engine and final adjustment. In the adjustment process as AJ mentioned, You just want the...

It's easy to test whether the gauges are completely bad. Not so easy to see if they're accurate. A simple Ohmmeter will tell you if the gauge circuit is still good. The location of where the needles rest will give you some indication if the gauges are cooked. You want the needles to rest just...

Which body style?

'70-2 small bolt pattern, disc brakes an option. '73-6 disc brakes are big bolt pattern and standard on a V8, and optional on 6's. Same as the Dart series.

Other than the oil pressure sender, the rest are very close to being the same.

None that I can see. The oil pressure wire will be a bit long, but, just strap it up a bit.

The factory SBP rally's are 14 X 5 1/2". The stock Kelsey Hayes brakes work just fine with those.

IIRC, the bracket in your last photo is a guide for the door release rod that goes from the inside release to the door latch.

If the Duster is a '70-76 model, yes.

Not with drum selection.

Your Barracuda donor car will work fine for floor foot well pans on the convertible, as well as all '63-6 Plymouth A-bodies regardless of body style. You go rear of the foot wells and there are some differences between some models. The spare well will work too. Those pans are available new too...

I've never had and issue swapping 10 X 2 1/2" drums regardless of year/model and finned/non-finned. They're a very common drum.

Here's the sure grip carrier and the NOS parts I have for it.

I did the exact same mod on my '66 Barracuda except that I didn't take the fuel gauge apart (as in pulling the face plate) but instead, I drilled a hole in the gauge housing to get access to sterilizing the voltage limiter. I posted some photos here somewhere a couple of years ago. Test to see...

We could use better photos of all three. The shifter location and the output spline count would be important to know, along with any internal/external problems they might have. The silver one looks to have had the input shaft partially cut off. in '67 there were two versions. The 273 used one...

My understanding is that jeweled movements don't use oil. Oil eventually gets gummy and prevents free movement that clock parts need. It's when the points stick shut that the coil melts down.....sorta like what happens when a stock IVR does that with the gauges.