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If your headers are Doug's or TTI, the flanges are pretty fair/true, and seal on regular header gaskets very well. I've always used the header gasket supplied, or Mr. Gaskets with great success, if the flanges are true. Never needed " Remflex" .

I do beg your pardon, Missed the big block, apologies.

Member Cannucky brought me his used heads from an engine builder. The rocker shaft were worn, rockers also needed bushings. His keepers didn't have gaps, something seemed funny as I tapped the retainers to release the keepers. Long story short, the ridges of the keepers were near gone. The valve...

You keep saying TTI, do you know Doug's makes a similar design header at a much more reasonable price, with equal or better quality, and some retailers offer free shipping. Autozone often has a 20% discount sale, with other retailers matching their price, just saying .

On many headers, the same set that fit in the small body, easily fit in the big bodies. The same Doug's fit A thru F? Bodies iirc .(Challenger anyway)

I'm suggesting insteada dropping a grand on carb/injection, manifold, do the exhaust first. Carb and manifold are easily swapped on a b blk, from the top.

It's the old air-pump logic. You spend a ton of money changing a 3 inch pump into 4 inch, - a ton more money changing the heads, intake, carb, camshaft to change the 3 inch inlet to 4 inch, and you leave a 3 inch outlet on it. Totally backward try to cram all that flow thru puny exhaust system...

That'd be driver's side, that goes under the steering gear.

Please remove the ridge, nothing good will come from leaving it. Most tool rentals have a ridge reamer, or used to, a coupla minutes each hole, once you get the hang of it, Napa and others advertise tools avail. Everytime the square ring edge smacks that round cove . . Cheers

Nice work, - good job .

I spent some time looking for my old install posts, nada, here goes. I haven't put in fenderwell in a long time but to shift the engine around, take the weight of the engine off the mounts with a floor jack, with board to protect the pan, start by loosening all the bolts/nuts holding the mount...

Yes, some of your issues may be solved having the engine in the right place, I think the first pic didn't have the mounts in (iirc), so I was trying to get you to stop cutting and start measuring, lol. The headers are made for stock engine offset, I would imagine? Keep at it, you will get it...

That's a chart we've been using here for years. Mopar engines aren't centered, they are offset to the pass side, by differing amounts listed there. I've just looked at the chart, I can't see how I can explain it any better. Good luck.

My first ones weren't pretty either, - but you had to fab everything then, - not buy it, search around for scrap iron or something to sacrifice, - tow it to a welding shop for placement . lol .

Are the trans and engine mounts installed, and engine in it's proper position ? https://ttiexhaust.com/Footnotes/FN_39.htm

When I ran big blocks, I didn't use goop on them either, can't remember any leaks .

There's a little plastic protector to slide over the ridges of the valve when installing the new seals, - look for it/them .

How is the pcv plumbed, to plenum or manifold bib ?

I re-reread the post and agree, the intake should be suspect, he said looked fine, but yes, - int gskt seal should be scrutinized. Re-seal intake and cross fingers . The steam disappearing vs smoke is correct . Any ash on plug would be on intake side regardless . Thank-you .

Pull the spark plugs, if there is that much oil being burned, it'll show on the plugs unless they are newish. It's unusual for any quantity like you mention to leak past a guide while the motor is at rest as the oil would have to climb up the guide to run down inside the guide, that'd have to be...

I have long drill bits I run from the main bearing and head surface to "line up" the holes. Dress the bearing as nec. Let the drill bit do the job, gentle pressure on the drill . Good luck.

I really don't like that first pic, I've gone away, then back 3 times, it's just stays ugly. jmo

Depending on year, some valve stems were 11/32, others 3/8, there could be a miss-match. I've also had Comp keepers actually wear the ridges down to near dropping the valve . Then there is the 2 different keeper angles . Good luck

I just want to add some experience, after doing dozens and dozens of over the fender re-ring jobs. As an apprentice, I spent 4 yrs doing what I was told. I had an absolutely amazing mentor . It was not uncommon in our shop, and thousands of shops across the nation, to de-glaze, hone and re-ring...

Mopar Engine Manual reference.

Member Jim Lusk has some good info, here's a link to to a vid and more that may help. Cheers https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/jim-lusk-73-76-k-frame-a-body-small-to-big-block-conversion.470292/

...lower rad hose fittings, not the hoses, - when it hot, - so we can eliminate the rad, even tho new, as the/part problem thnx. You're looking for 50*ish+ of temp drop. This thread will give you an idea of where we are going. If you don't have a gun, phone local parts stores to borrow and take...

May I ask who assembled the engine, do you know the ring gap, we're the ring grooves cleaned, what weight oil are you running? Tia

If you have the stock trans mount, I think you'll find the rear mount is captured in the x-member . Discovered that when my son's fan clutch about 1/4 inch from the rad . He's a spirited driver, hasn't tagged the core in 8 yrs.