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@Earlie A has sort of taken up the mantel and done a lot of work with the SM heads. Lots of great info from both @pittsburghracer and him on these heads. If I recall they would flow around 250 or just shy out of the box and peak around .500 lift? Someone is sure to correct me if I'm wrong...

Welcome! 71's are the best in my opinion, sorry you had to let it go. Any pics of it?

Thanks for clarifying everyone. I love learning new stuff!

Sorry if this particular language was already covered. As someone who has lived abroad and visited Austrailia a few times, they are telling you if you bought $1850 AUD using USD, for which you will pay in USD base on the exchange rate, senidng them the $1850 AUD is all that's needed. We used...

I'm sort if thinking X or R block ? Maybe some other specialty block?

Can someone explain what a short deck intake is? The reference I saw was regarding a w2 intake.

Ugh, I hate seeing these posts. Where I live no one has stuff like this. Once in a while there will be something that pops up but not often. Best two things I've seen in 8 years of living here was white interior with good rear panels for $800 and some virgin econo W2 heads also $800. Wasn't in...

Challenger (e-body) has the filler in the side, but still no cut out for the spare tire, you're still correct my thinking was wrong.

Good point

I read somewhere using an e-body tank is a good way to get some extra room for routing tailpipes in an early A. I'm curious who's done this and what considerations there are before we go down that rabbit hole on my sons 65 Valiant.

Colorado for all its faults had an awesome car culture when I lived there 8 years ago. There are two mopar specific clubs in the Denver area, one for show stuff and one for Go stuff. I was in both and they were good people. I'm seeing that the Bandimere family is moving forward with building a...

As sound as that logic is, when you have all the things and way too much "gumption" it's a hard challenge to pass on. lol. I've learned the hard way that sometimes it pays to spend.

That's better but stull out of range for one offs in my opinion. That said I have two 3d printers I can knock them out in with some patience. nowhere near as good but for a couple of uses they'd be good enough.

Last time I looked a set was like 800 bucks, and they only cover one tube size per kit. Awesome tool but unless you're building headers for a living it's overkill. First time I saw how people did it in the past they used pvc plumbing parts to get the general shape. People also use heavy wire...

I think this is a great exercise and think about doing this a LOT for my sons valiant. Yes i know you can buy them from big names but the expense justifies the desire to do things myself sometimes. Not the most efficient way to get things done but it can be very rewarding and I always learn...

Exactly, and "I" in AI is a misnomer. There is no actual intelligence, rather pattern recognition and regurgitation.

Anyone have a summit code they aren't using? Looking to buy some trunk extensions before China locks down

for $30 bucks I'm down, just need to get someone to do it. :)

Not sure what a proprietary method might be but it's my understanding there are basically three ways to remove PC. 1. Chemical (acetone, MEK etc) 2. Mechanical (abrasive media) 3. Heat (It's baked on, it can be baked off). Where I worked as a teenager they had an oven to clean blocks, heads...

That might account for it, but still, I've seen a lot of people suggest the same thing on the interwebs. I'm wondering if it's a high temp which might just be tougher in general.

Tried to use some acetone last and it only dulled the finish. Not saying it doesn't work but my initial test weren't promising. Yeah, she's missed around here for sure.

yeah those .049 are tiny. The larger 1/4 scale props are more problematic. You want those balanced pretty good.

Huh, seems easy enough. I always had it in my head PC is tougher than that but then again acetone will destroy a lot of plastic/paint types. Thanks!

I recently got an Edelbrock Magnum airgap on a trade and want to remove the really fancy blue/purple sparkly powdercoat without destroying it. Is there a decent home shop way to do it or am I better off just bringing it to a pro and having it "dipped"?

A good way would be like how a model airplane propellor is balanced. Similar to using a nail, but the "nail" is supported by something that keeps it dead center on in the hole. The "nail" is set on two level parallel surfaces. Balance until the blade stops trying go vertical. If you google...

I have a 69 Dart vert on which a previous owner ... 1. "Converted" the headlights to rectangle 2. Put grip tape on every flat surface on the interior to add "texture". 3. Converted the trunk to gas assist but drilling holes into the deck lid under structure and through the drip channel. The...

That joint is not as rock solid as some might want to think. Grade 8 are indeed stronger but Grade 5 will take more of a beating because the will "move" where a grade 8 won't will resist that, and will crack before g5 in that regard. Now if you're bolting a 1 inch plate to another some other...

That's fantastic, you sound like you've lived an amazing life, well done to you. Closest I got to anything like that was occasional trips to Johns shop (He owned a company that rebuilt WIWII engines. ) for my boss a the time and was fortunate enough to be present when the bran new nose was...

All good info so thanks. The general thing I was missing was forgetting about the AMC 360 so when I saw a wagoneer in the local wrecking yard inventory and it had a 5.9 it got me thinking. Wrong version though so it's a non-starter. I'm glad I asked here before wasting my time. Way more...

Yeah I hadn't even thought of the AMC version. Thanks for clarifying.