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I have a set of front 10" drums off my '69 Barracuda. Drums, Backing Plates, Brake Shoes, hardware.

I have a moly coated eccentric, Mopar PN P4120484. I would need to get $15 out of it plus shipping.

Did you get my PayPal payment? When can you ship the parts out? Thanks, Tom

Perfect. How do I pay you? I have PayPal.

I figured you would have them. I could make them from stock aluminum but I would rather have the real thing. How much for 2? Shipping to 98012? Thanks, Tom

I am looking for the pinch block and allen head screw that ties the vent window frame to the inner door structure for a 1969 Barracuda. Here is a picture of what I'm looking for.

Here's a picture (provided by AIV) of what I'm looking for. I thought I had them in the boxes of extra bolt, nuts, screws, etc... but I can't find them. Anyone have two of these laying around? If not, can someone take measurements of the pinch block and tell me know the allen head screw size and...

Does anyone have 2 extra pinch blocks and 2 Allen headed screws?

Wheel size 18". Front: 225/35-18 Rear: 245/35-18

Here are some pics of the '69 Barracuda Convertible I just got down with. This car was once owned by Marisa Tomei.

I saw those and now that I know what the Allen bolt and backing plate look like I know exactly where this goes. Without it my vent window moves all over the place and binds up the main door window. Here is a picture of mine with Torx head screw driver inserted into the hole in the door frame...

Yes, I saw the picture. I have that pinch block and the allen screw in a box. Problem is I did not take the doors a part so I am trying to fumble my way thru it to get them back together correctly. I think I can get it from here. Thanks - your pictures and discriptions are top notch.

AIV - I need help understanding the allen head bolt size and length and the nut plate that it gets screwed into. I think there should be a nut plate that goes into that channel in the window frame. Can you provide more pictures of the allen bolt and where it goes? Thanks, Tom

Great thread!!!

Got the car back and it runs great and the brakes work great. The low vacuum ended up being a leak in the base plate and linkage of the carb. We went ahead and changed the carb to a 670 Holley with primary and secondary metering blocks. The original carb was a 750 Holley that was too big for the...

I just changed out the cam that came in my Mopar Performance 360 (LA Block with Magnum Heads) to a Comp Cam PN 20-614-9. It's a hydraulic roller tappet, Duration 264/274, Lift .480/.480, 112 Lobe Separation. We paired that up with an Edlebrock Air Gap Performer manifold and a Holley 670 with 4...

The cam was not degreed when installed. It was installed straight up.

I agree which is why I think there is some type of vacuum leak. We are going back to set the idle timing and idle rpm higher (700-750).

Comp Cams says that motor/intake/cam combo should produce 16-18 inches of vacuum when timed correctly. I would like to do hydro boost and be done with it but the cost is not in the budget. I have a Summit Racing vacuum pump but it never worked correctly.

More info - the 11.5 reading was at idle (500 rpm) with the trans (Torqueflite 727) in gear. The timing is set at 12 deg at idle (no vacuum) and 34 deg at 2,500 rpm (no vacuum).

I have a 1998 Mopar Preformance crate 360 installed in my 1969 Barracuda convertible. The engine is an LA block with Magnum heads. It has an Edlebrock Air Gap dual plane manifold and a Comp Cam (20-614-9) with the following measurements: 264/274, .480/.480, .210/.220 @ .050 lift, 112 deg lobe...

I have a slightly used (less than 6 months) vacuum pump for power assist brakes. If you have a engine with a tall cam and you don't produce enough vacuum from your power brakes to operate correctly, this pump to will the necessary vacuum to the braking system. This unit has an internal switch...

For Sale: slightly use water neck/thermostat housing made by CSR Performance Products. This unit works and looks great. I changed intake manifolds and was not able to reuse this piece. It's made from billet aluminum with a clear anodize finish. The head swivels 360 degrees to optimize your upper...

I'll try tomorrow night. Thanks to everyone for their insight, advice and help.

Treblig - You are correct. We've already put the car on a lift and verified the U-joint/pinion is hitting the underside of the body. My next step will be to check the pinion angle, make any necessary adjustments before buying parts. Thanks for the advice.

If I was to replace the leaf springs, what would you suggest? Just weighing all my options.

It's a1969 Barracuda convertible. Don't know if the Hotchkis front hangers were used or not but would assume so. I got the car after my best friend passed away from a motorcycle accident 2 years ago. Not sure what he used. They look fairy new so I'm going to assume they came with the kit. Again...

The car has the Hotchkis TVS front suspension system and the matching rear Hotchkis springs. I contacted Hotchkis and they gave me the dimension from the center of the wheel to the underside of the wheel lip opening (12.5 inches) for the rear tires so I could check if the leaf springs were...

All the rear end ratio calculators I've used say with a 25.7" tall tire (which is what I have: 245/45-18) that is the ratio I need to run at 2,200 RPM at 60 mph.

I love the stance of the car and don't really want to raise the rear up at all. Here is what I am considering. Tell me if I am being stupid. 1) Sell the Dana 60 less my SSBC disk brakes(less than 1,000 miles on it and it looks brand new). Purchased from Strang Engineering for $2,300 plus...