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OK, I haven't actually put the bolts in yet, just checked the set back. Just wondering, it looked like it'll touch, but I'll find out when I tighten the bolts.

Question: when the magnum flex plate is bolted to the torque converter, should the edge of the outer rim touch the torque converter or does it make contact only on the bolt mounting pads?

Question: when the magnum flex plate is bolted to the torque converter, should the edge of the outer rim touch the torque converter or does it make contact only on the bolt mounting pads?

Nice chart! I'll check it out.

...and did the coating crack, fall off or what? Did you heat it before you beat it? Sorry if that sounded off ...

Hey, there are a few places where I'm gonna need to make a dent in the header for fitment. It has the ceramic coating, has anyone done this successfully or does it totally screw the coating? heat first help?

I'm installing a 360 magnum in my '67 dart and I'm using TTi shorty headers. No issues whatsoever on the passenger side, but yes on the driver side the collector interferes with the brake proportioning valve. I'm gonna have to reconfigure that valve...

This thread is great to confirm my LA 360 dipstick I plan to use on my 360 Magnum is the right dimensions. Question though, I bought a new one and the tube is dead straight, so when put into the block it will obviously interfere with the fuel pump. These tubes are typically bent a bit down...

Yep, got it. I just misread the magnum swap description...I have a 5.9 magnum weighted flex plate and a neutral balance converter.

You can't use the B&M flexplate on a magnum, different external balancing than LA 360. If you're experience is different, let me know.

I spoke with Pertronix, they indeed recommend a 1.5 ohm coil for V8 applications...though I could not get them to opine specifically on the mopar orange box in that regard. I do recall someone on the slant six boards telling me years ago that if I'm removing my ballast resistor (which I did)...

OK, so I think that is suggesting that certain ECU's must have at least 1.4 ohms of resistance in the ignition coil or they'll burn out. I've read a number of articles since I posted, and I believe I'm OK with the 3 ohm coil, it just may put out a less hot spark. One post on Slantsix boards...

I heated it and punched it down, seems fine, no other warpage noted. I wanted to stick with the wider head bolts as I assume they will grip better.

I understand that one must modify one of the bolt holes in the 360 magnum flex plate to fit the bolt pattern of an A904 torque converter. As the picture below from one of the tutorials describes, one just uses a rat tail file to open up the one of the holes that doesn't align. So I did that...

Yes, thank you, I'm aware that the GM HEI system is superior, I've seen the testing and so forth on slant six forum, great stuff. So, do you know why 3 ohms would be specified for 4 and 6 cylinders and lower resistance for v8's? That's the part I don't get. Why would one not want more spark...

OK, so let's just go with that logic...it suggests that I'm OK with the 3 ohm resistor coil with the v8. It could be that Pertronix's guidance applies to their particular other peripherals, at least it seems to read that way. Where did you read this? Please share...

OK, so on my slant six I was running a 3 ohm Pertronix coil, no ballast resistor, with factory mopar electronic ignition. I'm swapping to a v8, and I read on the Pertronix website that the 3 ohm coil is for 4 and 6 cylinder applications, but for a v8 one should use the 1.5 ohm coil? Am I not...

Yeah, as I said, I need to read more carefully...it'll save time (and money).

NVRMIND, I reread the post and it says i can use the B&M flexplate only if I get a specially balanced magnum torque converter...I'll just get the magnum flex plate and fit it as described with a rat tail file.

I believe I read on this board that I can use the B&M 10239 flex plate for the 360 Magnum (with A904). My engine builder says no, I must to a Magnum flex plate. True? Brian

I'm having the magnum built for me, it's on the dyno, should be shipping soon...but I'll check those bolts (and all the others) when I get it.

You can get whatever size, cross section, material you want from McMaster Carr...I do a lot of shopping there.

For an O-ring? McMaster Carr has any o-ring you can imagine.... From the look of the dyno photo, I think my intake is the Professional Products Crosswind Intake 55026.

I think my issue is solved, the older ones accept larger diameter thermostats (53mm). Thanks all.

The dyno pic of the engine shows a chrome one that seems to fit perfectly, but I'm pretty sure they didn't use a thermostat on the dyno.

this thread...Magnum water neck/tstat clear answer needed

ugh!...But, I ordered the Mr. Gasket 4365 thermostat...it looks like the thermostat is too big for the water neck. I found another thread on this forum that suggests it is hard to find a water neck for the Edelbrock 7577 intake manifold, the magnum and later engines have a different water neck...

Thanks all, no, it's a really straight/true/thick aluminum unit, no warpage or anything, and the intake is a brand new Edelbrock dual plane unit.

I ordered a water neck (thermostat housing) for my 360 and it has an o-ring for the seal, not the paper gasket. Does anyone know if those O-rings seal good or should do the old fashioned paper gasket with sealant? On paper, the O-ring seems like a good idea, just checking against reality...

Yup, next time I jack it up off the ground I'll see...