Search results for query: *

I can round up all the parts you need, in baskets, and cores. but that's the best I can do.

You'll get about 1.8 psi for each degree of Cam advance. and/or same 1.8psi per an increase of 1/10 of a compression point. Swapping from 039s to 028s at same 4.18 bore is worth about 3/10s compression ratio, and 7psi. A custom 020 gasket with a 4.07 hole, will get you 4.5cc, less than the...

...in the back, and a 10.5 PV. Sync the Transfer ports, reset your pumps, Modify your VA and Mechanical Timing Curve to, together, generate at least 48* of Cruise timing. Here's how to set your cruise timing exactly right. 1) check your timing at cruise-rpm 2) rev your engine up to cruise rpm...

...a manual trans, and 24" tires; 65mph calculates to 3400rpm. For cruising and to get optimum fuel economy your timing is gonna want to be about 56* advanced. with an auto-trans your rpm might be/should be, within +/- 3 %. What I imagine; and/or am afraid of; > is that cylinder pressure is...

What's your cylinder pressure? To pull 2.94s off the line, yur gonna need a lotta pressure. I have a similar cam in my 360 and it likes a minimum of 180psi for bottom-end torque and a starter gear of 10>11:1. IDK what a 4.20 ratio Second gear is except maybe a typo, but no matter, IMO 2.94s...

...is Nothing you can do to your engine (normally Aspirated) that can get you plus 71% more take off power than gears and stall. That cam (say a 262* advertised), with no other changes, is likely to DROP your cylinder pressure to 120 from 140, making take-off extremely mushy. That will end up...

If you put the same cover back on the box, this should not be a problem.

as for bolt-ons with an 8/1 318 1) a compression test. You gotta have all eight working. 2) a higher stall, and a tune up 3) rear gears 4) a 4bbl/a free-flowing exhaust system, and more tuning. But if it was me The first thing I would do is crank the Pressure up. Maybe then I don't need all...

amen, but for Dan, a 2800 would be fine.

Changing a B/E body trans to an A-body involves changing the tail, the Mainshaft, and usually the rear bearing. Additionally, the B-body front retainer will not fit into the standard A-body BH. This is an easy fix by using the A/F-body overdrive BH and front retainer. Some guys have machined the...

Yeah. this is a two-parter Part-1, hydraulics Take the wheels off, and remove the calipers. Go get a pair of big iron C-clamps and clamp the pistons into the bores, all the way down and hard. Hang the calipers up so the lines don't kink. Now go step on the pedal. It should be high and hard; No...

I am a streeter. but by it's trapspeed, my 367 is making 430 hp. I am very happy with the CF diaphragm PP, the Stock Flywheel, and a factory 340 organic disc. However; the discs barely make it thru one, or mayb, two summers with my driving style. The discs usually fail by 1) cracking at the...

Is it power assisted? And no, you MUST NOT use a "hold-off" valve, which is usually called a "residual-valve", in the front brake system. The use of it will override "seal-retraction", and then your front pads will not come off the rotors, and something bad will happen.

Yes the GV comes with a stand-alone module that has two functions, and an on/off switch. 1) when you select od by the switch, the ecu modulates the apply-signal, to gently engage the overdrive clutch. and 2) it prevents od from being engaged in reverse, which just about instantly breaks the...

Some people, not pointing the finger at Kern Dog above; say that the .78od ratio of the GVod is "not that Great" or something to that effect.. Well, by the numbers, and compared to some other options, that is true. But For a street-driven car, there is a clever way around that, which I have...

...set-point. I forget the setpoint just now (I'm getting older) but I imagine it would be, at some logical and easy to maintain temp like maybe 100*F; I'm guessing. the most noticeable sign of lean-running is > a tip-in sag, aka a hesitation, from a dead-stop. > lousy gas-mileage, due to the...

If you look closely, I quoted

That's the first thing I noticed too. That beast maybe not even be off an A-body at all.,

The charging system is made up of FOUR components; The AC charging Coil, the AC to DC convertor the Regulator and the battery. The 6 little bent pieces are the diodes that make up the convertor. These are the most common trouble-makers. Well besides the brushes, and the battery connections, lol.

Answer, no. The 7.25 has the longest driveshaft. Th 8.25 and the 8.75, some say can run the same driveshaft, but I had to move springs back on one swap. and this driveshaft is shorter anyway than a 7.25. IMO you are just pissing in the wind, until you go look. chances are that all you need...

Oh chit, I read B-body 8.75 and immediately went to 66 Coronet. But To answer your question, all A-bodies from 67 to 76 or so, will have rearends that swap any which way you like, except with various proviso's like; Driveshaft length, tube diameters, size of brakes, and where exactly the the...

The Transfer slots are your Low-speed fuel delivery system. The Idle mixture screws are just there for Idle enrichment. If the ignition timing is NOT factory, ie is now advanced, then to keep the idle-speed down, this will require the throttle-blade to be closed, which then closes the...

only the 66 and earlier ones. IIRC they are an inch wider on the perches, and an inch wider on the track-width, which seems to be close enough. But my memory may not be all that accurate.

If I understand you right, yur saying that with the cups off, the joint will not slip between the cup-holder saddles of the yoke; is that right? Made in China? Those guys just don't care; for them, it's all about money. Just make sure the two saddles are parallel to eachother and that an...

It is common for those to stay/stick on the fast-idle cam, due to either the cam sticking, or the choke is faulty, or the choke is not getting enough heat. Try a penetrating lube on the cam. If that don't do it remove and polish the pivot screw, reinstall it dry. I have, many a time, zip-tied a...

The factory tires on 340 cars were E70-14s The E is code for 7.35 inch tread NOT a a section-width. 7.35 inches equals 186.69mm On the factory 5.5 inch wheels the section width mightabin plus 2 inches . Equals about 51mm This would then total 187 + 51= 238, rounds up to 235mm. However, the...

actually, in my experience a 7" wheel is 8'' outside to outside and for a zero offset, should have an 8" bs. All my wheels follow this rule. All my alloy wheels are even stamped that way; ie, a 10incher is 11" outside to outside.. BTW Notta chance would I run a 275 on a 7" wheel; which is...

Ask me anything about installing or running the GVod. I installed mine in 2004. I would NOT say that is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but with a cammed-up SBM, it's close. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Since I am a streeter, if I had to do it again; I would just put a smaller...

Best bang for the buck is a higher stall convertor. I like the 2800. It gives a nice jump off the line with those 3.23s. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Do this FIRST and you will never regret it. Then install a semi-auto shift kit, and maybe your teener...

No, My comparison was to the 48* stocker. Well that's the thing, the V/P at 116 is already at lawnmower status. 51* "only" drops it to 112. Now pump the 8/1 engine up to 10/1 and run the stock cam at 48*Ica, and the pressure goes to 186psi and V/P to 155, now you got a chitload of bottom end...