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Did you try increasing your idle speed? Could just be that your engine was idling too low. Try setting your idle speed at 800-900 rpm while someone holds the brake and has the transmission in drive.

DO NOT buy a Zirgo fan! I put one on my radiator, ran great for 5 miles, then came apart and put a hole in my radiator. After a month of back and forth they agreed to refund me for the fan and shipping, but still slow-rolling me (6+ months) on any compensation for the radiator. The company...

I would get a vintage air kit. Call them up and ask what they suggest - probably a universal street rod kit. You can get their systems cheaper by going through one of their dealers. I don't know about finding compressor mounting kits for your current motor, but I know they're out there for the...

I put one on a couple weeks ago. Got the alternator and brackets and pigtail in a kit for around $200 from Mancini. It's awesome. I can now idle at 800 rpm with the electric fuel pump, stereo, headlights, A/C on high and electric fan and it's still charging. My old alternator wouldn't charge...

Here's a link to my Hot Rod Air setup. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=85073 They are out of business as far as I know, but the engine mount brackets are the same ones that vintage air uses. I just got a street rod kit (universal) and the brackets for a 360. I used...

Yeah - get a set of drag radials and heat them up real nice. Look in the performance section of the forum at my thread titled "get my car to launch better..." you can follow my traction solutions.

Joe - do they make a 4 vent evap box? I pit in a 4 vent unit and it barely fit. You can read my link above if you want. I'd go with the biggest evap you can fit- you'd hate to not have a powerful enough system after you finish up the install.

I'm currently putting in a denso conversion kit I bought from Mancini Racing. Supposed to put out a lot more amps at idle. I think your turn signal issue is something not related to your alternator.

Here's a link where my pictures for the hotrodair system I installed. Hot Rod Air isn't currently in business as far as I know. If I had it to do over I'd put a vintage air street rod (universal) kit. My engine brackets are basically the same as vintage would give you. I ended up spending...

if you have a hurst shifter you could try loosening the bolts that limit how far your shifter can throw. also check that you had your shifter locked in neutral (put a drillbit in the hole) before you adjusted and hooked up the linkage. you could also adjust the linkage so that you are pushing...

If you go to www.mcleodracing.com and look in the forums there are guys asking McLeod when the tranny is going to be done. According to Paul Lee, the president of McLeod, "I would say as of today, we are looking at late summer for release". He said that on April 6. I'm betting no earlier...

You need to get a timing light. If you don't want to spring for an adjustable one you can get a damper timing tape to tell how many degrees advanced your timing is at different rpms. Try unplugging your vacuum advance and checking what your timing is at 4k rpm. For a ballpark number it should...

Yeah, I just installed one of those champion radiators in my demon. Do yourself a favor and call Jeremy at Monster Cooling (phone 949-521-4376), he's one of those ebay sellers for those radiators. It was basically the same size as my stock radiator but the bolt holes didn't line up so I had to...

Here's some pictures. The one of the engine bay shows the wires coming from the mallory unit behind the firewall. I also have a 12V starter cable and 12V power cable coming through there since I moved the battery to the trunk. I left the ballast resistor and ignition box in place so I can...

Here's an update from my last post. I moved the battery to the trunk, drag shocks front and rear, installed a mallory hyfire with 2 step limiter and a line lock. While going down the strip, I was unable to keep the throttle to the floor the entire time, since I ended up having problems...

I'll get you some pictures tomorrow of the install. As for your questions: I've had it for one month, I did some searching online and didn't see too many bad reviews. I have had problems with MSD and I was nervous about this one. I'm hoping installing it away from engine heat and with a...

I tried one, didn't get it to work. Maybe I hadn't wired it right, but I returned it and bought a Mallory hyfire. It is such a more capable unit for only about $100 more. It is multiple spark, has 2 step rev limiter, window switch if you want to use nitrous in the future, adjustable spark...

I would first get your distributor curved at FBO. I've got his whole set up, although I just installed a mallory hyfire 685. It has all the bells and whistles, digital rev limiter, 2-step, start retard, window switch and selectable retard (for nitrous). It's just a little bit more than the...

cgraff - I plan on doing the same thing. I'm planning on keeping the ammeter connected but running the charge wire from the alternator to the relay post and connecting the old charge wire to the post too. If your ammeter is in good shape there shouldn't be a need to bypass it as charging...

Well, I threw some money at the problem. Comp Engineering adjustable drag shocks front and rear (I'll return the gas ones), a line lock and battery relocation kit. I got the battery relocator helper kit from MAD electric too. I plan on eventually putting in the toyota 4 runner alternator and...

496 - I put on cheapo monroe gas-matic shocks from Advance (asked for shocks for a 69 D100) and they were 23.5" fully extended. Now my shocks aren't preventing full suspension extension. I'm only out $34 if I get a better set later.

I made multiple passes, but I think it's something static weight transfer (battery in trunk), properly heated tires (install line lock and get good burnout), and less driver error will help with. All I've done to this point is clamp the springs and put longer shocks in. If I start pulling 1.8...

Yellowdart - I'm betting you're single, I can't imagine my wife letting me put my bikes in my kitchen. Nice picture.

I just thought I'd update this - I put longer shocks in, and clamped the front section of the rear springs. The wheel hop is completely gone, but I'm still spinning off the line. Everything worked better when I lowered tire pressure to 16psi. I was at a track at higher density altitude...

Thanks for the tip on the clamps. I'll go to homedepot - faster, cheaper and it will be made in the USA; maybe not the steel, but the fabricator (me) is American. Is there any advantage to unclamping the rear section of the springs? For anyone else wondering about the shocks, if you go to...

Okay guys, just finished some measurements. I started with the pinion snubber, put it 1/2" from floor pan. Next was pinion angle. Pinion is down 1 degree. Engine on front crankshaft pulley is up 3.5 to 4 degrees, meaning tailshaft is down that much. I think that means I have a 4.5-5...

Where do you find longer shocks? I'm assuming you could just go to autozone and ask for a shock for a truck, but what model truck or car has the length needed?

Thanks everyone for your inputs. Here's my plan: Set the correct pinion snubber height, reinforce floor pan Measure rear shocks and make sure I have at least 28" extended Put battery in trunk Install subframe connectors Install rev limiter - I'm thinking about the mallory hyfire ignition...

On the MT drag radials I went down to 15psi, but my best time was when I was at 18psi. It was a cold night (45 degrees), so tire temperature was probably more of a factor than tire pressure.

Brad - I'm running Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials. Am I missing out on that much by not having a full slick? I heard great things about those drag radials, but if full slicks are that much better I'm game for trying a set out. I currently have the adjustable snubber set about 1.5"...