Search results for query: *

I have a Sunpro super tach mounted to my A pillar. I used one of the trim mounting screws through the base. No mods required, and it works great. I can get pictures tomorrow, if you would like.

"Why take a chance with an off-brand or one without a box? Aftermarket Units have been known to leak." My brand new aftermarket sending unit seal works a hell of a lot better than the original did. And the sending unit actually, you know, works. And I couldn't help but notice it apparently...

I don't know. Year One has B body moldings, but nothing for the A bodies. I would try to find someone parting a dart out, or post something in the wanted section, as most guys toss them the first chance they get.

A good place to start would be telling us what you want it made out of, (I'm assuming a mild steel will be fine), and do you have any dimensions on the part?

It should be a 904. The only two autos Chrysler made were the 727 and the 904. The 727 was available behind the big blocks and small blocks in certain applications, and the 904 behind the small blocks only. 318s in the A Bodies came with 904's. This should help...

It was part of the "Bright exterior package" from what I understand. Got you that trim, plus some trim around the windows. Mine had it (72 as well), but I pulled it off when I repainted it. Interestingly enough, one side was glued on, the other side had holes drilled in the body for mounting tabs.

I believe so. The pictures I found show hoods that look very similar, if not identical. But I don't have any first-hand experience.

Out of curiosity, where did you end up taking the trans to?

Which trans? 500 or 518?

I had a couple buddies (back when I had a trans am) that would load up on the seafoam then take their cars down the highway, just for the looks they got. Good times.

If you're looking for cheap, just grab a kickdown cable off of a Dodge truck or a van. I've got two kickdown cables (one already went into the dart, works great), one from a 4x4 durango with an A500 and one from a late eighties dodge van with an A518. Both the cables are the same, just make sure...

A&A transmission has them. http://www.aandatrans.com/search.aspx?keyword=fuel+line Third item down.

It would have changed the amount of fuel at idle. The RPM adjustment for idle is the screw the controls how open the throttle is. It's located at the bottom of the throttle bracket. As was stated, 1.5 turns out is a good starting location for the idle mixture screw.

But how well does it flow compared to the RPM?

So this is an issue with the Magnum intakes, right? Not the LA ones?

That wall where the intake port on the head intrudes into the intake runner (being smaller) does more damage than the slight tumble you may see. If you open them up to gasket size, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Do you have any pictures of your bowl work?

Might be a bit cheaper to have a local shop shorten and balance the one you have.

That's.. well, that's just awful, isn't it?

Looks like this. http://www.autospectator.com/cars/photos/2009-ford-flex/2009-ford-flex-easyfuel-capless-fuel-filler

Exactly, and you never know with an aftermarket trans. Who knows who put it together, or put it in? It's possible that if there's enough play in the shaft it could push the converter into the flexplate, of course, now that I think about that, there would probably be some evidence of...

If you're going to go crazy with it, why not go all the way and use one of the new capless systems?

My guess would be maybe the coil overheating and not functioning properly, especially if your heater hoses are lying on top of it.

So are you trying to pull the whole engine? Or just the heads? You don't need to pull the heads to pull the engine. You can just remove all the bellhousing bolts, the starter, the front accessories, the fan, the radiator, and the distributor cap (to clear the cowl) You should be able to leave...

I would check the end play of the transmission input shaft. I suppose it's possible that a transmission with too much shaft play could put excessive wear on the crank when shifting.

http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=chrysler-sfi-flexplate-‘71-’92-chrysler-360-wtf904 Should be what you need. I've got the same one in my '72. I doubt your car came with 2.4's for gears, maybe 2.91s or close to that. I don't think they ever offered gearing that low in anything. Does...

What year? Duster/Dart Sport/Demon bumpers should interchange as long as they're the same year. I think 74-76 were the same, as well as 70-72. 73 I can't remember.

No, the Gen 3 HEMI's use an eight bolt crankshaft.

It is... that works with ALL Mopar engines. Comes with a weight you leave on for external balance, take off for internal balance.

Looks real nice, how was it to install?

What exactly is the issue with the old one? If the shifter mechanism is worn out, you can rebuild it, and reuse the original handle.