Search results for query: *

I see what your saying now, so not necessarily a locking washer but more of a built in washer. I did a quick search and seems they may be hard to find, I may just stick with the grade 8 bolt with flat and locking washer for now

What is a "captive" washer?

So I was able to fit a 5/16x1" bolt with a flat washer and lock washer. This would be near impossible to do with the radiator in place though. Thanks for the tips guys!

I agree having the radiator out of the car is absolutely the best way! I have noticed how the lock washer splits in the oval hole as well, I will try and see if I can get the lock washer on along with a flat washer to cover the oval hole today, if not I believe I will be using the blue loctite...

About to install the Hayden 2947 clutch and wondering what others have used for the mounting hardware? Are locking washers necessary on the clutch to water pump pulley bolts? Or is it OK to use flat washers and some blue loctite on the threads?

I all ready have the heads they have been in the car for about 8 years with Doug's headers. Time for new exhaust though and been considering going to a quieter system. I am not really interested in grinding the aluminum heads though. Maybe Schumacher Try-y's will be the way to go? Mostly looking...

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with using any OEM stock manifolds with the edelbrock heads on a small block 340 a body

The heads are the Performer RPM and their install notes read:

Does anyone have any experience with using OEM cast iron manifolds with edelbrock aluminum heads? Apparently, according to edelbrock installation manual the 2863553 (68-70) drivers side manifold will not work. Will the 71-73 year drivers side work? Also would the exit port be the same size on a...

On a 1973 340 26” radiator the fan shroud part #3673820 seems to be very hard to find. Will the readily available reproduction #2998326 shroud fit? The reproduction is listed as B & E body big block. There are also other 26” reproduction shrouds being made just wondering if any will fit the a...

Sales at Griffin just said those HP figures are based on previous builds they have done, I doudt there would be a gaurantee

Engine is a 340/422 stroker with aluminim heads, makes 450 HP according to dyno when it was built

On my 73 scamp I have a 22" core opening and looking at Griffin for a custom radiator that has a single 1.5" row vs their 1.25" 2 row due to clearance issues so I can run my clutch fan. Griffin claims this custom rad is good for 600-650 HP. Anyone see any issues with the 1.5 single row to cool...

Thanks! Much appreciated

Is the actual thickness of the rad 2" ?

Nice! And to the rad face would be even more! I am planning on mechanical fan with clutch which should clear no problem.

Absolutely! I forgot to add that I will be using a high flow 180 degree thermostat. The one I have currently is the Mr. Gasket 180 degree high flow all brass construction

Ok, so I phoned CVF today to get dimensions and drive ratios of the pulleys on their serpentine conversion and the dimensions are as follows: Crank 6.4" Water pump 5.3" This makes the ratio 1.2:1 so will be overdriven. Now I just need to get the combo all sorted out. I'm thinking of going with...

Hey Fred, I am really considing this rad for my Scamp as well. What clearance do you have from the rad to the face of water pump pulley?

So with the Hayden clutch with only 3” clearance you would have 3/16” and that is enough clearance? Damn that is tight!

Good info indeed! Maybe I need to consider with this particular combo using a standard water pump instead of a high volume like the factory. 6 blade? The water pump I intend on using is the flow kooler which seems to have a anti cavitation type impeller.

Been doing some research and I was comparing some specs for the 340 engine on the factory service manuals: 1973 manual says water pump to crank ratio is: STD 1.2:1 Max cooling no AC 1.2:1 AC 1.3:1 Max cooling AC 1.3:1 water pump impeller STD & AC 3.7" 6 blade 1972 manual says water pump to...

I have a federal pump with a “vented cap” and I am always cleaning up fluid leaking or misting out of the cap. It is the original cap from 1973. If I overfill it will definitely be found on the floor after a cruise. I have been just slightly under filling like just below the bottom line on...

Looking at new pulleys and came across the CVF serpentine conversion. There is no info on their web site regarding ratio or pulley diameter (I plan on calling them Monday). I did read a post on here saying the crank pulley is 6.25 and water pump pulley is 5.125 making the ratio 1:22 overdriven...

My car originally came with a 22” rad.

Part numbers I am looking at on Mancini: Radiator: OERMA2249A (brass) OERMA2238A (aluminum) Shroud: MREHF325

Couple of questions: I am in need of a new radiator for my 73 Scamp and I am looking for OEM fitment. I have a 22” wide opening on the rad support with 24” mounting centreline for mounting the rad. I am looking at Mancini where they sell a OER radiator for a 72 a body. Will this rad fit the 73...

Thinking of changing the fuel line on the Scamp to accommodate new Sniper EFI (winter project). Was wondering what you guys think of using PTFE stainless braided hose for the entire length of the fuel line? Also wondering what your thoughts are on running the fuel line in the engine bay on the...

FIXED!! Thanks fellas FABO rocks! Switched out the voltage regulator, performed all tests mentioned earlier to rule out alternator, now 13.9 volts on gauge in dash and 14.2 volts at alternator outpost as well as battery + and - while idling

So just got back from a cruise, and I jotted down some readings taken at the voltage gauge while I was driving around. before I left on cruise battery tests at 12.66 volts and was charged overnight -idle 800rpm at red light with brakes on and radio 11.7-11.8 volts -driving around radio on...