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I believe so. Cant really put it on any other way. Center link drops onto the steering and pitman arms.

Thanks Kegan. Looks like it is a slant 6 k frame.

Has anyone had issues with the center link hitting the Moroso mid sump pan when turning wheels to the right? Wheels straight ahead and its already almost touching the side of the pan. Right turn is a hard no.

I thought this was a SB k frame, but my pass side TTI mount isn't even close to fitting. Did I screw up and it's a slant 6 k frame after all?

MMX is a leader in the G3 Hemi game. Customer service I can't really say much other than I tried to get a cam from them and never got a response back after a couple tries, but Dave had been very helpful on several other occasions on social media. I found somewhere else that didnt make me beg to...

Well, I finally quit dragging my heels and finished welding in those replacement mounts. Worked out pretty well, but what a major pita! A little FYI for you guys. When taking your measurements to locate your replacement mounts, make sure you use an area that isn't about to be ground away when...

I know Cope has a manual and a transbrake valve body available, but they are spendy. I was planning on a TransGo kit. Switches are the fall back, but some sort of automatic function would be better. I wouldn't want to forget it was in OD or lockup during some excited downshifting.

I just bought a 46RE. Was supposed to be an RH but it I bought it anyway. I've been doing some interwebbing and what makes sense one minute, seems confusing the next. From what I've gleaned, the RE is different than the RH in that there are no governors or hydraulics in the OD unit. Correct...

The fabricated mount that Classic Industries sells seems to be sitting too high on the supports that are inside the frame. Did any of you use these? I'm curious if anyone else had to remove them to get the mount to fit.

One of my upper control arm mounts was badly rusted and needed replacing. I ordered the new mounts from Classic and set about fitting them after cutting the old ones out and ran into some problems. Has anyone done this? I'm wondering if the inside the frame supports need to be cut down as mine...

It's been a while since I've read up on stroker kits. In the early retro swap days it seems like the 400-410 ci range was the max for stock blocks, and the 440 ci kits were aluminum block territory. Has anything changed? I've seen some more talk of the 440's running around but no mention of alum...

Brain fart. Whichever one has more drop for oil pan clearance. Is it needed or can I roll on with whatever I happen to have?

Is there an issue with these swaps using the small block center links, or is the Big Block center link needed for oil pan clearance? EDIT- sorry, I think I meant slant 6 vs. V8. Been away from the A body too long. I'll be using the Milodon mid sump pan if it matters.

Kind of why I asked. I have seen both sides of the Milodon discussions, and I'd rather avoid an expensive pan anyway. I was looking at it and wondering the same thing.

Hemi Denny- I had decided to go with your LCA's. Just haven't made the phone call yet. I'll probably get a hold of you Mon or Tues. Thanks.

Bummer. Thanks for the pic, though.

Are there any factory oil pans that work with the QA1 k frame? I am curious about whether the car oil pan sump (front sump) would nestle in between the cross tubes.

I knew I had seen a manufacturer with the LCA for t-bar eliminated but couldn't remember for the life of me and nothing popped up on a Yahoogle search. Hemi Denny has it. Thanks for the tip.

Cant find anything with the search, but years ago there was a member who modified the pivot shafts to work with coilover shocks. It was basically a fail safe to keep the shaft in place because there will be no t-bar holding it in position. Anyone recall this or who did it? It may have even been...

As it sits with shock simulators, the shock height is at 12". That may change as I get a chance to get working on this. Raising the height wouldn't be hard to do at this point. I am curious though- are shock options better if I changed the mounting point to a double shear through bolt end...

I know of Magnumforces reputation, thats why I am only considering the mount. Its a machined piece, seems hard to screw that up. I'll check out Ron Sutton and see what they have to offer. At this point I dont feel an aftermarket k frame is necessary since the shock towers are gusseted already...

I just picked up a project that has been caged and back halved. Shock towers have been gusseted to the cage downtubes very well. I'm looking at using Magnumforce coilover mounts (along with RMS uppers) and am just curious if anyone has experience with this style conversion, and how they like it...

Can't help you with that, as my motor was not a crate.

Old Cuda, I can tell you that the Jeep SRT manifolds will not fit the right side starter.

car-part.com You can search all junkyards nationwide or a specific locality.

Factory G3 hoses have different size outlets. One end will fit the larger water pump outlet, the other end is standard radiator size. The trick is finding one that's close to fitting and adapting it to your application.

The 42RH is the A500 IIRC. That is a fairly light duty trans. I would opt for a 518 (46RH) unless there were no other options.

If you don't want to cut the tunnel, you dont have many options. A GM 2004R is possible with minimal tunnel work and an adapter. My brother had one built to handle his 500hp 408 in his Dart Sport. A 518 typically requires more work because its bulkiest right in the crossmember area but some have...

AC compressor can just be removed, but PS will need to be gutted or replaced w/ idler. This pic may be of some help. Pre-eagle car cover.

Correct. The ECU only looks for the cam signal at startup. Once it establishes its position it is ignored. I would imagine the MSD is getting its tach signal from a coil. That seems to be a favorite aftermarket signal.