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I did. I noticed the starter is wiggling for lack of a better term when cranking. The starter is tight too. Have a feeling something is broken. Just don't know what yet.

My 340 won't start. It also cranks very slow and gets starter hot with key on after continually attempting to crank. If I disconnect the coil or just jump it at solenoid with key off, it cranks normally. So basically for some reason when the motor is firing or attempting to fire it sounds like...

I will do that sir! Thanks!

I will look for my cam card. Definitely a solid roller cam. So, is it .020 or .015? I am getting different recomendations.

True that! Glad I don't own one!

Haven't even pulled it yet. Motor may not survive. It has the Coronet virus.

Sorry. Been super busy at work. I will post replies soon!

My car has the Charger style flip cap that says fuel on it. I'd say that thing is kn b not air tight. ShouldX ls suffice for a low pressure return. I've actually been messing with cars since '85. They were always Chevies though. My 'Cuda is the first one I attempted silly go fast stuff with...

I am a 100% in agreement with you. Awesome response! Does it matter if my return line is rated for high pressure for future install of Sniper?

Yes I am aware of that. My point is that if I am going to route another fuel line underneath car and back to tank then I am going the extra mile and buy a Sniper unit. Also, I do not need a return line at the moment because my electric pump isn't set at enough pressure to warrant one. What I am...

Yes the compression noise is only during extreme slow cranking. I plan on pulling heads and getting valves, seats and springs examined by Owens Racing Engines in Pearland. If these heads are junk I have a back up set of X-heads with adjustable rockers.

Would the correct year be a 69 engine then, or would it be a 68 model block? Does it matter if it came out of a Coronet?

I remember being told zero lash but I went with .010 because I know with heat metal expands. I did a compression check a while back ago on driver's bank. I want to say 170 psi was average. Haven't done passenger bank yet. I will say that #1 exhaust and #4, and #6 exhaust will at sometimes stay...

I used 4 gauge on ground and ran it from battery to transmission bellhousing by starter. Positive is also 4 from battery to starter. I can hear compression leaving the cylinder during slow cranking. That's normal though right?

I never even considered that. It is one of those Chinese distributor ignition box combos from eBay. I already ditched the cheap orange box and switched to the blue one from local auto parts. My cousin had a brand new MSD distributor completely rust out under his distributor cap. It literally...

I will do that. Thanks!

Bent valves would be my guess or at least bad seats. Definitely valvetrain related. Oil has already been changed twice since cam swap. The old filters are long gone now. Oil is staying clear and clean. Would sticking/bent valves cause the motor to slow crank or drag? I ask this because there are...

Okay Rusty, what I've decided to do is pull the heads. Yes. Just the heads. I think some valves are sticking. Not all the time. Just sometimes. The reason that the short block isn't an immediate concern is because when I say the cam died, it was actually two lifters that concaved. Yes there was...

Here's an embarrassing video of the motor in its alternative state of operation. Did my best to capture the horrible noise it is making. I show the oil pressure gauge fluctuating and the rpm's correlation. No those are not the orginal 'Cuda doors gutted. They are my spare race doors.

Going on pure assumption here, but it appears the fuel pressure gauge while new is a total piece of crap. The needle seats are doing their job. Float bowls are not overfilling. Fuel staying at bottom of sight glass. From what I can tell, it would seem I have one or more valves not opening and...

For you Rusty, I'd let you have it for $2.00.

Your response is pure gold. I love passive aggressive people. Please point out where I was rude or impatient. I literally said I appreciated everyone's responses. Didn't realize it was a sin to put a 383 in a factory 383 car. Hell, it is my car I thought. No one likes bad news. So if I seened...

Found one problem. Kill switch is junk. Terminal to it just literally fell off with cable attached. Any late-comers to this post need not assume I don't appreciate everyone's advice. I do. It means a lot to me and I value everyone's input. If I ask the wrong questions or seem stubborn it is...

By Clear Lake

Well damn. I just had the intake off. I installed new gaskets. I get the low oil pressure, but why the running like crap after 10 or so minutes? Is it because clearances are changing and the motor is losing compression at that point? I didn't realize that solid lifters took oil in. All I can do...

I consider myself mechanically inclined. The reason for the 383 is because I figured why spend money on a motor that is a headache. I've set the valves. I installed the cam and heads and intake. Do I like mechanic work? Not really. I like doing body work. There just comes a point when it's best...

South Texas. Basically Houston Clear Lake area

No one good around here. I will post videos of it running good and then a 10 minute later video of the same motor acting like it is on its death bed.

What do you think a 72 340 is worth? Obviously needs a rebuild. Have X heads with adjustable rockers.