99 problems and a Ford ain't one.

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While I agree the bearings are likely toast as a result of the motor pumping some iron infused oil thru itself after the original cam failure, which is probably why the hot oil pressure is low.
However, the motor now has a roller cam in it, with I assume unrestricted oiling to the lifters.
Sometimes there can be some pretty big leaks around the roller lifters...... especially with 340’s....... on the tops and bottoms of the lifter bores.

“If it were me”, and I was of the mindset where the motor had to come out and apart anyway....... before I did that....... I’d pull the intake manifold while it was still in the car, and run a priming tool and check to see if any of the lifters were hemoraging oil from the top or bottom.
To really see what’s going on you’d want to watch each lifter through it full range of travel and be looking for oil to be coming out of the top, or the bottom of the bore.
The biggest leaks “usually” occur in the area of full lift.
If enough of them are pretty big leakers, it will def impact the oil pressure....... especially hot.

While the bearings may be shot...... that may not be the only problem causing low oil pressure.

Best to check before you take it apart.

None of that should have any impact of how it runs though.
 
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I agree 100% with stepping back and taking a breath. I also think you should diagnose what you "have".....let me explain.

First let me start by saying don't take any of this personally, as we ALL have our limitations and we all need help sometimes. I've had things slam kick my BUTT over the years and had to reach out to others. Sometimes it just happens.........but and this is the part not to take personally. ........if you cannot get this 340 running right, what makes you think you can get a 383 running right "just because" that's what the car "came with"?

Maybe we have a member in your area that could lend a hand? I would be willing to talk to you on the phone about it. If it ends up being something about the CAR rather than the engine, what will you have done swapping a 383 in it? Nothing. Not a darn thing. What if it's trash in the fuel system? No engine you put in there will ever run right. Rather than throwing parts at it, engine included, take a break, take some deep breaths maybe for several days and then try some real diagnosis. Lots of people think diagnosis is throwing parts at something until it's fixed. That's not it. Real diagnosis is collecting data from either testing or process of elimination. Seems most people are too impatient for that nowadays. Send me a PM if I can help. I'll be glad to.
 
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Exactly what RRR said. My job is helping others when they are at their wits end and I see this all the time lol.... It's not funny but sometimes that's the way it goes. Happens to me too...

JW
 
RustyRatRod said:
I agree 100% with stepping back and taking a breath. I also think you should diagnose what you "have".....let me explain.

First let me start by saying don't take any of this personally, as we ALL have our limitations and we all need help sometimes. I've had things slam kick my BUTT over the years and had to reach out to others. Sometimes it just happens.........but and this is the part not to take personally. ........if you cannot get this 340 running right, what makes you think you can get a 383 running right "just because" that's what the car "came with"?

Maybe we have a member in your area that could lend a hand? I would be willing to talk to you on the phone about it. If it ends up being something about the CAR rather than the engine, what will you have done swapping a 383 in it? Nothing. Not a darn thing. What if it's trash in the fuel system? No engine you put in there will ever run right. Rather than throwing parts at it, engine included, take a break, take some deep breaths maybe for several days and then try some real diagnosis. Lots of people think diagnosis is throwing parts at something until it's fixed. That's not it. Real diagnosis is collecting data from either testing or process of elimination. Seems most people are too impatient for that nowadays. Send me a PM if I can help. I'll be glad to.
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I consider myself mechanically inclined. The reason for the 383 is because I figured why spend money on a motor that is a headache. I've set the valves. I installed the cam and heads and intake. Do I like mechanic work? Not really. I like doing body work. There just comes a point when it's best to walk away from a problem. I am 100% sure I can rebuild the 340, but I would prefer the 383. Seeing how my car came with a 383 and it is a 383 'Cuda 4 speed car. A 340 just seems silly.
 
PRH said:
While I agree the bearings are likely toast as a result of the motor pumping some iron infused oil thru itself after the original cam failure, which is probably why the hot oil pressure is low.
However, the motor now has a roller cam in it, with I assume unrestricted oiling to the lifters.
Sometimes there can be some pretty big leaks around the roller lifters...... especially with 340’s....... on the tops and bottoms of the lifter bores.

“If it were me”, and I was of the mindset where the motor had to come out and apart anyway....... before I did that....... I’d pull the intake manifold while it was still in the car, and run a priming tool and check to see if any of the lifters were hemoraging oil from the top or bottom.
To really see what’s going on you’d want to watch each lifter through it full range of travel and be looking for oil to be coming out of the top, or the bottom of the bore.
The biggest leaks “usually” occur in the area of full lift.
If enough of them are pretty big leakers, it will def impact the oil pressure....... especially hot.

While the bearings may be shot...... that may not be the only problem causing low oil pressure.

Best to check before you take it apart.

None of that should have any impact of how it runs though.
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Well damn. I just had the intake off. I installed new gaskets. I get the low oil pressure, but why the running like crap after 10 or so minutes? Is it because clearances are changing and the motor is losing compression at that point? I didn't realize that solid lifters took oil in. All I can do is post a video so y'all don't think I'm crazy.
 
Ground rockers because they are chinese and weren't clearanced for the large spring"\

what about yellow roses statement- not a comment-
If you had to grind on your rockers the geometry is wrong. Just an FYI.
did you not understand?
then a question
dead end or bypass system?
I'd hault
do a compression test for the record and pull the motor
expensive roller lifters and rockers do not need cast iron lube
you keep starting and something bad is going to happen
 
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I'm not criticizing here but I think the responses here have shown more patience then you have with YOUR engine. Go ahead with the 383, but with the way this thread has gone, I would sure as hell buy it running or put it on a stand and do it RIGHT
The amount of bs I have read about trunk mounted batteries....to add weight over the axle? 2 cases of beer is the same weight and when consumed properly is worth the price of admission.
I've read thru it all and VERY surprised how patient the members are here. Take their advice and good luck.
:popcorn:
 
Found one problem. Kill switch is junk. Terminal to it just literally fell off with cable attached. Any late-comers to this post need not assume I don't appreciate everyone's advice. I do. It means a lot to me and I value everyone's input. If I ask the wrong questions or seem stubborn it is because I have been through hell with this car. I love it and I hate it. Just how it is. If it were a factory 340 car then of course that's what I would want in it. It is a 383 car though. That is what I would like to have in it. Is that so crazy?
 
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4spdragtop said:
I'm not criticizing here but I think the responses here have shown more patience then you have with YOUR engine. Go ahead with the 383, but with the way this thread has gone, I would sure as hell buy it running or put it on a stand and do it RIGHT
The amount of bs I have read about trunk mounted batteries....to add weight over the axle? 2 cases of beer is the same weight and when consumed properly is worth the price of admission.
I've read thru it all and VERY surprised how patient the members are here. Take their advice and good luck.
:popcorn:
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Your response is pure gold. I love passive aggressive people. Please point out where I was rude or impatient. I literally said I appreciated everyone's responses. Didn't realize it was a sin to put a 383 in a factory 383 car. Hell, it is my car I thought. No one likes bad news. So if I seened impatient, it is because I put thousands into my 340. You like it so much then buy it. Otherwise don't worry about what you assume I am thinking.
 
I never said you were rude or impatient did I?
I cant wait for the blame to be placed on the 383 when you get it.
Dont forget as YR pointed out that the BB has the fuel pump driven off cam lobe...small block has the eccentric...but that shouldnt matter right? That COOL electric one is working....JUST FINE :poke:
Oh yep, it's your car, do as you wish/want/dream....BUT because you spent THOUSANDS on the 340 and it doesnt run right, does that make it a POS? Not necessarily...think where else the problem(s) may lie.
Good luck Mr Cramp!:drama:
**edit** no assumptions made here on my part. Yep car deserves a 383...put one in there. Maybe next time a cam is wiped you will do a complete teardown??
VonCramp said:
Your response is pure gold. I love passive aggressive people. Please point out where I was rude or impatient. I literally said I appreciated everyone's responses. Didn't realize it was a sin to put a 383 in a factory 383 car. Hell, it is my car I thought. No one likes bad news. So if I seened impatient, it is because I put thousands into my 340. You like it so much then buy it. Otherwise don't worry about what you assume I am thinking.
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So the plan is to pull the 340 then and sell it? What are you going to sell? Who is going to end up with that mess? I sure hope it's not a member here who hasn't read this thread. I am sure you'll be asking a fair price, right?
 
did you cut the power on the electric fuel pump when it was loading up to see if that cleared up the coughing? That's simple. Let me know what happens.....I've personally witnessed a 12psi pump to a Holley and know what it sounds like. Decrease pressure by turning the adjustment screw counter-clockwise.

Id take possession of a roller cammed 340 in need of bearings that was headed for the junkyard in a Texas minute. I'd even haul it for him! :)
 
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yellow rose said:
Ok...so if there ain’t fuel blowing out the boosters and vents, your gauge is garbage. That’s all that can be. You can’t have that much fuel pressure and expect it to not push fuel out every hole it can find.
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This ^^^ is getting to actually to actually determining the truth.
Here's what you (VonCamp) need to do to check this out.
Engine off, look at the carb bowls. Each one will have either a clear fuel level window, or a plug.
If its a big window, fuel should be near the middle.
If its a small plug, near the bottom - shake the car, you'll see it. If its brass plug witha slot, remove it. Fuel should be right at the bottom.

If its close, then start the car and check again. They should stay the same as when stopped.
Be careful. Take all the obvious precaustions working with open fuel if using sight plugs that can spill out.
 
get the right year 383
you need to do an autopsey on the 340 or it's sale value will suck
cut the oil filter open, compression check, do the lifter oil loss check with electric drill and hex while having someone pulling crank around slowly, starter can be too fast
get the fuel pressure under control as 383's need love too
but no reason to risk spun bearings or throwing a rod with micro grit in the oil
actually you may be lucky it won't run
cheers
 
4spdragtop said:
I'm not criticizing here but I think the responses here have shown more patience then you have with YOUR engine. Go ahead with the 383, but with the way this thread has gone, I would sure as hell buy it running or put it on a stand and do it RIGHT
The amount of bs I have read about trunk mounted batteries....to add weight over the axle? 2 cases of beer is the same weight and when consumed properly is worth the price of admission.
I've read thru it all and VERY surprised how patient the members are here. Take their advice and good luck.
:popcorn:
Click to expand...

L0L , disappearing beer aint legal ballast ton the dragstip !
Higher h.p. cars need all the help they can get for traction .
 
RustyRatRod said:
So the plan is to pull the 340 then and sell it? What are you going to sell? Who is going to end up with that mess? I sure hope it's not a member here who hasn't read this thread. I am sure you'll be asking a fair price, right?
Click to expand...
For you Rusty, I'd let you have it for $2.00.
 
pishta said:
did you cut the power on the electric fuel pump when it was loading up to see if that cleared up the coughing? That's simple. Let me know what happens.....I've personally witnessed a 12psi pump to a Holley and know what it sounds like. Decrease pressure by turning the adjustment screw counter-clockwise.

Id take possession of a roller cammed 340 in need of bearings that was headed for the junkyard in a Texas minute. I'd even haul it for him! :)
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Going on pure assumption here, but it appears the fuel pressure gauge while new is a total piece of crap. The needle seats are doing their job. Float bowls are not overfilling. Fuel staying at bottom of sight glass. From what I can tell, it would seem I have one or more valves not opening and closing as they should be. Damn pro comp Chinese virus heads. Not sure, so don't get mad when I say this but I think the low oil pressure is in relation to the motor trying to stall. When it drops down to just a couple hundred rpm at idle and trying to stall out Of course the oil pressure drops because the motor is about to die out. If I feather the gas pedal, it goes back up with the rpm's. Just an assumption though. Going to pull the heads and take them to the local machine shop.
 
Here's an embarrassing video of the motor in its alternative state of operation. Did my best to capture the horrible noise it is making. I show the oil pressure gauge fluctuating and the rpm's correlation. No those are not the orginal 'Cuda doors gutted. They are my spare race doors.
 
VonCramp said:
Here's an embarrassing video of the motor in its alternative state of operation. Did my best to capture the horrible noise it is making. I show the oil pressure gauge fluctuating and the rpm's correlation. No those are not the orginal 'Cuda doors gutted. They are my spare race doors.
Click to expand...


Ok...so you’ve eliminated the fuel pressure issue.

It certainly is missing on more than one cylinder. Usually if you stick a valve it gets bent, especially the exhaust valves. Doesn’t always happen, but it usually does unless you have a mile of P/V clearance.

While you have the heads at the shop (or maybe before you pull the heads) I’d take the oil filter off and it it open and look at the guts of the filter to see if there is any junk in there, and if there is how much and what it is.

Just off the top of my head...if the engine has metal from the first cam floating around in there, that junk will end up in the lifters and it will affect lifter function. Although, even with my ear buds in I couldn’t hear if the lifters were clattering while it was missing. That is due to 35ish rock concerts over my lifetime and literally standing on the starting line for thousands of unmuffled passes. So it could be making noise and I can’t hear it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So the plan is to pull the 340 then and sell it? What are you going to sell? Who is going to end up with that mess? I sure hope it's not a member here who hasn't read this thread. I am sure you'll be asking a fair price, right?
Click to expand...
Okay Rusty, what I've decided to do is pull the heads. Yes. Just the heads. I think some valves are sticking. Not all the time. Just sometimes. The reason that the short block isn't an immediate concern is because when I say the cam died, it was actually two lifters that concaved. Yes there was metal filings. After I pulled the flat tappet lifters and cam, I pulled the motor and sprayed it down with 5 cans of break clean. Checked all lifter bores. Pulled oil pump and thourogly cleaned it and screen. While out of the car I had to clearance the ribs in oil valley for the new lifter bars of the solid roller lifters. The local machine shop installed new valve guides in the pro comp heads. If I had to pick one major cause of my problems, I would say it is valve train related. Either sticking vakves, bad guides, or a couple of the lifter bars may still be hanging up on the ribs in valley. The fuel pressure issue is a crappy new fuel guage giving inaccurate readings. The needle seats are functioning normally and the sight glasses show fuel just at bottom edge. Also found that my Moroso kill switch was defective when the cable terminal fell off into the battery box. Still going to get a 383 and save it for a later date.
 
when you pull the heads, you be able to see the lifter bar interference as fresh metal in an otherwise painted or blackened valley. IIRC your link bars need to be V notched for an LA as straight bars wont work due block casting .As for the sticking valves, you should be able to notice them when you pop the covers on a hot motor and remove the rocker shaft, 5 bolts. All valves should be level and I mean level on new heads! could even take a brass mallet and tap each valve stem to see if it gives. When was the last time you looked at your distributor? Seems the only thing ignition that wasnt addressed in your list of new stuff. reluctor gap can change on a hot motor. very small but maybe enough if your already on the extreme. Should be .008 with a brass feeler to not mask any magnetic drag. Plugs still operational, not all fouled from this, clean them for another test with a wire brush or wheel.

solid rollers should not degrade lift if oil starved (slants will run on no oil for hours at idle, ie Slick50 commercial) but your not as you still have 5psi at idle. do you have a vacuum guage? it will vibrate on a stuck valve. and a slow wander of the needle is a vacuum leak. vacuum leak Can show up on a hot motor as opposed to a cold one especially with Aluminum heads and intake on an iron block. lots of different heat coefficencies (sp?). Get spray bottle of water and start spraying sealing faces and see if idle picks up if motor is still together.
 
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yellow rose said:
Ok...so you’ve eliminated the fuel pressure issue.

It certainly is missing on more than one cylinder. Usually if you stick a valve it gets bent, especially the exhaust valves. Doesn’t always happen, but it usually does unless you have a mile of P/V clearance.

While you have the heads at the shop (or maybe before you pull the heads) I’d take the oil filter off and it it open and look at the guts of the filter to see if there is any junk in there, and if there is how much and what it is.

Just off the top of my head...if the engine has metal from the first cam floating around in there, that junk will end up in the lifters and it will affect lifter function. Although, even with my ear buds in I couldn’t hear if the lifters were clattering while it was missing. That is due to 35ish rock concerts over my lifetime and literally standing on the starting line for thousands of unmuffled passes. So it could be making noise and I can’t hear it.
Click to expand...
Bent valves would be my guess or at least bad seats. Definitely valvetrain related. Oil has already been changed twice since cam swap. The old filters are long gone now. Oil is staying clear and clean. Would sticking/bent valves cause the motor to slow crank or drag? I ask this because there are moments when it would crank normally and then catch and drag real slow and then crank fast again. These pro comp heads have been nothing but trouble. Two of the original springs broke right away. So I switched to some Comp Cams high pressure springs. Either way, heads are going to a machine shop reputable for building race engines.
 
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