99 problems and a Ford ain't one.

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yellow rose said:
There are only 3 cam CORE manufacturers, not 3 cam companies.

Ok...so if there ain’t fuel blowing out the boosters and vents, your gauge is garbage. That’s all that can be. You can’t have that much fuel pressure and expect it to not push fuel out every hole it can find.

That still doesn’t address your oil pressure issues, which is going to require pulling the engine.


BTW, a small block Chrysler doesn’t have a fuel pump lobe on the cam. It uses a bolt on eccentric that bolts on in front of the cam gear.

FWIW, as a general rule, if the fuel pump bolts to the block it will have a lobe on the cam for the fuel pump. If the pump bolts to the timing cover, it will have a bolt on eccentric on the cam gear. If you remember that, you can walk up to most any Detroit engine and and be almost certain if it has a lobe on the cam or an eccentric.
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I had forgotten all about the bolt on centric. Thanks! Still wanted the performance of a electric pump.
 
If your dead set on a electric pump, build a return fuel system. I did that on my 416 Barracuda and it works great.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
If your dead set on a electric pump, build a return fuel system. I did that on my 416 Barracuda and it works great.
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Honestly I wouldn't even know where to start on a return system. If I went that far I would just go ahead and put a sniper on it.
 
VonCramp said:
Are you saying my roller cam is bad? Battery is in trunk because I wanted the weight in back over right rear wheel. The previous cam was a flat tappet that died shortly after I changed to synthetic oil.
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No, he's saying your old cam circulated through the engine and ruined your bearings. Now you have low oil pressure. It's time to pull it and start all over from scratch. That's what he's sayin. With 12 PSI fuel pressure, I'm surprised you haven't filled the oil pan with gas.
 
you have an electric pump: Put a switch on it and kill it when it starts to load up. Let it settle down (fuel bowl level will start to lower) and all will be good again IF ITS A FUEL PROBLEM. Starting fine and then it loads up tells me its a regulator problem. I fitzed with a Holley black pump and said regulator for about an hour (first I dealt with) and determined its *** backwards in what you think the adjuster does. I went the other way and it finally started to cut the fuel pressure. The guy had it all the way open and it acted just like yours but it woulld load up after about 5 minutes. If it runs good cold, Id not suspect valvetrain. A bypass system is just a T with an adjustable 'bleed' tube back to the tank. You can use your vent line if its a charcoal system (with a vented cap) or run another with low pressure fuel hose (but fuel line is easier and probably cheaper) to tank. Gonna have to rig a return spud on the tank if none available but many senderd nowadays have the extra port. I had 5 psi on my 273 at idle. enough to flicker the oil light but the owners manual said that was normal..can someone confirm? That motor had no issues. I got a cheap orifice style dial a pressure Mr Gasket regulator if you want it.
 
VonCramp said:
Honestly I wouldn't even know where to start on a return system. If I went that far I would just go ahead and put a sniper on it.
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Seriously? You're talking about ONE fuel line routing back to the tank. ONE. Buy a fuel filter with the metered return orifice and route a 1/4 return line back to the tank. Your sending unit may even have a 1/4" return nipple on it already. Super simple to add if it doesn't. And you want to spend 1200 bucks on a Sniper that has to have a return line anyway?
 
I am in agreement with the majority of people who have said that the fuel pressure is too high, you have said that the oil is not washed out with fuel, so that supports the theory that the gauge is nfg. It's very likely that the old cam left behind a lot of junk and it has scored the bearings in the entire engine. What caught my attention is the trunk mounted battery and my question is what gauge is the cable that you have used for the primary wiring. Anything less than a 2 gauge cable can cause serious voltage drop over the length of the wire. Also a really good solid ground is essential for all the electronics to function properly. I have seen the results of voltage drop on multiple systems, it ain't a good thing. I don't expect it is the answer to all of the problems that you need to correct, but it may be a start.
Old rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm is key for a long healthy life for an engine, especially an old performance engine. Lots of modern cars have significantly reduced their oil pressure to aid in fuel efficiency.
 
toolmanmike said:
Damage is probably already done. I'm outta here.
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RustyRatRod said:
Seriously? You're talking about ONE fuel line routing back to the tank. ONE. Buy a fuel filter with the metered return orifice and route a 1/4 return line back to the tank. Your sending unit may even have a 1/4" return nipple on it already. Super simple to add if it doesn't. And you want to spend 1200 bucks on a Sniper that has to have a return line anyway?
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Seriously. I don't need it. Lack of a return line isn't making my car run bad.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I’m with toolmanmike, your not really asking for help or a solution. I’m out here too.
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At what point did I refuse a solution? Just because I rejected the idea of a return line? My car ran fine for years without one. I never once disagreed with anyone's comments so far. I aporeciate everyone's advice. I am in 100% agreement that the motor is trashed and needs to come out. Honestly, I think I am just going to take the engine to a scrap yard and put a 383 in it like it should have anyways. This 340 has caused me nothing but misery.
 
missing linc said:
I am in agreement with the majority of people who have said that the fuel pressure is too high, you have said that the oil is not washed out with fuel, so that supports the theory that the gauge is nfg. It's very likely that the old cam left behind a lot of junk and it has scored the bearings in the entire engine. What caught my attention is the trunk mounted battery and my question is what gauge is the cable that you have used for the primary wiring. Anything less than a 2 gauge cable can cause serious voltage drop over the length of the wire. Also a really good solid ground is essential for all the electronics to function properly. I have seen the results of voltage drop on multiple systems, it ain't a good thing. I don't expect it is the answer to all of the problems that you need to correct, but it may be a start.
Old rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm is key for a long healthy life for an engine, especially an old performance engine. Lots of modern cars have significantly reduced their oil pressure to aid in fuel efficiency.
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I am running 4 gauge for my cables. It is grounded at transmission bell housing. I think you are right that the bearings are trashed. I found a 69 383. Think I will just go that route. I am over this 340. I agree on the voltage drop too. Cranks great cold, but once it is warmed up it is very slow cranking.
 
VonCramp said:
At what point did I refuse a solution? Just because I rejected the idea of a return line? My car ran fine for years without one. I never once disagreed with anyone's comments so far. I aporeciate everyone's advice. I am in 100% agreement that the motor is trashed and needs to come out. Honestly, I think I am just going to take the engine to a scrap yard and put a 383 in it like it should have anyways. This 340 has caused me nothing but misery.
Click to expand...


I’m not sure how this is the 340’s fault?

Did you actually VERIFY that you have that much fuel pressure? I’m doubting you do. That needs to be cleared up first.

If when you killed the original cam you didn’t pull the engine and complete disassemble and clean it, then that’s why this time it’s dead. You can’t kill a lobe and think the filter will get all the crap going through the engine. Most likely, the filter plugged rather quickly and then just bypassed all the oil right into the engine.

So address the fuel pressure issue first, then pull the engine, clean it up, replace the parts you killed and put it back together.

The fact that it’s a 340 has zero relevance to anything except what you superimpose on it.
 
yellow rose said:
I’m not sure how this is the 340’s fault?

Did you actually VERIFY that you have that much fuel pressure? I’m doubting you do. That needs to be cleared up first.
Yes I completley agree. Haven't you ever gotten tired of an old girlfriend though? She was nice at first but then you just got tired of those personality quirks. That's where I am at with this motor.
The fact that it will just run bad for no explanation. I don't know if there is a fuel issue or not. All I can see is that the gauge shows 12.5 psi.
The most confusing part of all is that it doesn't run bad until it is warmed up and been running a while. Motor starts losing power. Bogs down and doesn't want to idle.

If when you killed the original cam you didn’t pull the engine and complete disassemble and clean it, then that’s why this time it’s dead. You can’t kill a lobe and think the filter will get all the crap going through the engine. Most likely, the filter plugged rather quickly and then just bypassed all the oil right into the engine.

So address the fuel pressure issue first, then pull the engine, clean it up, replace the parts you killed and put it back together.

The fact that it’s a 340 has zero relevance to anything except what you superimpose on it.
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VonCramp said:
Car should have a 383 because that's what came in it. Get me a 383 and you can have the 340 with both x heads and the alluminum heads.
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Look on FB marketplace in Richmond, Va. if you want a 383. Nice deal for someone....

PM me if you want to sell your 340. Go the route with this 383 locally and I would even be willing to help ship it for you. Sucks you are going through this but honestly if you have a Big block in your head nothing will make you happy except a crooked Distributor hehe...

Good luck,
JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Look on FB marketplace in Richmond, Va. if you want a 383. Nice deal for someone....

PM me if you want to sell your 340. Go the route with this 383 locally and I would even be willing to help ship it for you. Sucks you are going through this but honestly if you have a Big block in your head nothing will make you happy except a crooked Distributor hehe...

Good luck,
JW
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I will work with you. Only problem is I am in Texas. Ideas?
 


VonCramp said:
I will work with you. Only problem is I am in Texas. Ideas?
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I am think tank so ideas are easy. Seriously cool your jets for a couple of days. I can tell you personally I got my *** handed to me a few times doing this stuff. And so have others. So clear your head, take a walk, bake a cake.

Imagine someone who doesn't even get to figure out their problems. You can and are on the defense (lol). Been there, done that. But you got Bigblock on the brain. I get it. Others may not.



PM me if you want to talk about all this. But the FB deal is worth a look to you.....

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:




I am think tank so ideas are easy. Seriously cool your jets for a couple of days. I can tell you personally I got my *** handed to me a few times doing this stuff. And so have others. So clear your head, take a walk, bake a cake.

Imagine someone who doesn't even get to figure out their problems. You can and are on the defense (lol). Been there, done that. But you got Bigblock on the brain. I get it. Others may not.



PM me if you want to talk about all this. But the FB deal is worth a look to you.....

JW
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Wouldn't it just be better to have the right motor in my car? Not sure how I am coming across overly defensive. I feel fine and am at peace with the departure of the 340. I am over it.
 
VonCramp said:
Wouldn't it just be better to have the right motor in my car? Not sure how I am coming across overly defensive. I feel fine and am at peace with the departure of the 340. I am over it.
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You are not defensive. Definitely frustrated. As I said, you have Big block on the brain. But as I said earlier at one point you hit your limit and need a reset. If I want to keep what I have reset is motor out of the car, motor turns into motor parts. No other direction for me. The oil pressure is telling me it's about to go bad. Not worth it. Some days your the bug, other days the windshield....

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
You are not defensive. Definitely frustrated. As I said, you have Big block on the brain. But as I said earlier at one point you hit your limit and need a reset. If I want to keep what I have reset is motor out of the car, motor turns into motor parts. No other direction for me. The oil pressure is telling me it's about to go bad. Not worth it. Some days your the bug, other days the windshield....

JW
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What do you think a 72 340 is worth? Obviously needs a rebuild. Have X heads with adjustable rockers.
 
VonCramp said:
What do you think a 72 340 is worth? Obviously needs a rebuild. Have X heads with adjustable rockers.
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The one we are talking about? Squat until you fix it. In fact, I would insult you so I am not your buyer. As for a running 340 with X heads, it all comes down to what a buyer will pay. I walked away from a rebuilt steel crank 340 an hour from my house last year for $1500.00 because of the sellers knowledge but was told it runs great from someone who knows the buyer of it. The flip side is someone might tell you 2k for a block. All over the place. Decide if you want to sell it and make a decision.

Good luck in whatever you decide,
JW
 
I didn't read all the replies but it sounds like you should put a stock fuel pump on it that needs no regulator. And then you should put some brand new needle and seats in the carburetor and it just floats so doesn't overfill and push it into the mains and down the intake manifold. And once you get your flooding issue taken care of with that stuff move on to some ignition tuning. Of course none of that matters if you have a wasted camshaft ...dot. In that case start over.
Most of the time all anyone really needs is a good mechanic.

I just worked on this old guy's 68 Belvedere, Cherry car, red paint job original owner bought it here in town 273 automatic car. He said he had some other guy working on it then one day when he was driving..he went to stop in the car jerked to the right and he almost crashed into a curb. So I took the breaks apart and found little things like locator spring cups for the shoes on the brakes one of them was on the backing plate side spring in the wrong hole Etc, mis adjusted... I fixed it all. It also ran hot...and had a hiccup off he line.... so I put my light on it and found it was about 18 degrees retarded.... so I set it to the factory 2 1/2 degrees and lowered the idle to 650 N...still ran hiccupy dirty...so check the mix on the new reman carb the previous mechanic put on it...1 screw was @2 turns and the other @4 1/8 turns out... in gear idle was 498-512 rpm...I set them each 2 out...then just a hair less...rpm went to a solid 550 in gear...just mixture corrected. No more hiccup and scoots along real good now with its 103k original miles... guy was so happy he tossed me a hundred dollar bill.

Get a good mechanic ...and dont blame the car.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I didn't read all the replies but it sounds like you should put a stock fuel pump on it that needs no regulator. And then you should put some brand new needle and seats in the carburetor and it just floats so doesn't overfill and push it into the mains and down the intake manifold. And once you get your flooding issue taken care of with that stuff move on to some ignition tuning. Of course none of that matters if you have a wasted camshaft ...dot. In that case start over.
Most of the time all anyone really needs is a good mechanic.

I just worked on this old guy's 68 Belvedere, Cherry car, red paint job original owner bought it here in town 273 automatic car. He said he had some other guy working on it then one day when he was driving he went to stop in the car jerk to the right then he almost crashed into the curb. So I took the breaks apart and little things like locator spring cups for the shoes on the brakes one of them was on the backing plate side spring in the wrong hole Etc. I fixed it all. It also ran hot...and had a hiccup off he line.... so I put my light on it and found it was about 18 degrees retarded so I said it to the factory two and a half and lower the idle to 650....still ran dirty...so check the mix on the new reman carb the previous mechanic put on it...1 ace was @2 turns and the other @4 1/8 turns out... in gear idle was 498-512 rpm...I set them each 2 out...then just a hair less...rpm went to a solid 550 in gear...just mixture corrected. No more hiccup and scoots along real good now with its 103k original miles... guy was so happy he tossed me a hundred dollar bill.

Get a good mechanic ...and dont blame the car.
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No one good around here. I will post videos of it running good and then a 10 minute later video of the same motor acting like it is on its death bed.
 
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