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I just picked up a Holley 1920 at the junkyard for my '65 Valiant that came off a '63. The float, needle and seat and bowl cover were gone but I wanted it because it had the adapter on the back to work with my bell crank style throttle linkage. Anyhoo, I ended up pulling those parts from another...

Also, am I still supposed to be running that little resistor on the positive side of the coil? I was once told it was only needed with points, to avoid burning them. I'm pretty sure most electronic ignition equipped Mopars I've owned had that resistor but just a thought.

OK, so everything is wired up as per diagram and it turns out the other yellow wire on RUN does go to the IGN terminal on the voltage regulator. So thats all correct. I did replace the ballast, and the old one looked pretty fried. I checked the timing and it was waaay too advanced so I bumped it...

No, the harness was complete. I simply installed it, though I did once make my own harness for a Sweptline and I did get the polarity backwards. It ran, but terribly. So I dont think thats it. I have a yellow wire that goes from the Run position on the ballast, through the bulkhead, to the run...

you know, I had a bad coil in my '65 that did that to me. It was actually okay half the time till the coil heated up, but after that there was no idle no way no how.

Also, I have two wires to my run position already there. Both yellow. Is this normal?

Ok, so coil positive to Start position, module to Run position. That does make more sense. But it misses like hell when wired this way, could that be as simple as a timing issue?

I just switched my Valiant over to electronic ignition, with a four pin module and distributor from a Duster. There's one thing I'm not clear on though. Does the coil positive go to the Start, and the module to Run? Or vice versa? If I have the coil on Start and the module on Run it idles well...

So out of complete inability to find a pre-67 Carter or Holley one barrel (with the rod-style throttle linkage) for my '65 Valiant, I went ahead and ordered a reman from Autozone. Yes, I know. I could not get it to run right, despite going through the whole idle setting/mixture setting...

i vote for trucker hats. i would definitely buy one

i used the over the axle portion from muffler to tailpipe from a '71 Swinger i found at pick your part to make the exhaust for my '65 Valiant. it fit really well actually.

I thought I'd replace the distributor cap on my '65 Valiant with a new one I had laying around. The new one was for my '74 Dart with electronic ignition that I never got around to using. When installed, it backfires or tries to spin backwards, as though the timing's way off. i guess this...

man, i'm the same boat with my '65 Valiant. i'm in California too so i'll let you know if anything comes up. the pre-68 ones show up on craigslist once in a while.

Okay. Man, I never knew it was on the column up until '68. Thanks everybody. My other question is, how does it work? Is there something that comes up from the column and hits the switch?

I've got a 225 Slant 6, 1965, bone-stock. 99,472 miles. Its in a '65 Valiant with working AM radio, wipers, dashlights and heater. I believe this to be the actual mileage. The timing chain is tight, and the oil pressure never drops below 40 even idling on a hot day after getting off the freeway...

I have a '65 Valiant 200, still with its original 13's and Valiant wheel covers. Its a Slant 6-mobile daily driver and I'd like to go to 14 inch rims for better handling and fuel economy, as well as ease of finding tires. I'm pretty sure the pre 67's use a small bolt pattern. 5x4? I'd like to be...

The Trail Duster and Ram Charger are the same truck, the Plymouth being very rare,similar to the Plymouth B Vans. I'd go with either one. The Trail Duster would have more cool points, of course but a good ole Power Wagon is a thought too. Those things are rugged as hell and geared to handle some...

I have a '65 Valiant 200 four-dour, with the 225 Slant and 904 Automatic. I'm trying to figure out where to find a back up light switch for it. The one in it is definitely broken. I'm assuming its used only the 65-66 automatics with the cable operated column shift. It mounts at the base of the...

alot of times, the dash lights just burn out. and since they're somewhat difficult to access without dropping the column, people would often just accept that the ol' dart didn't have dash lights and it would get driven that way for a while. so while you've got it apart you could try changing a...