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I blew up my 7.25 with maybe 100bhp probably produced less actual power than that

Yes i am referring to the outside. The inside of it was squeaky clean when i pulled it but the outside is covered in all kinds of nasty and a little bit of surface rust. I would just blast out and paint but i don't have access to a blast cabinet

What is the best bang for my buck as far as cleaning up the fuel tank before i paint and reinstall

Where are you guys finding your head bolts?

ok so if i remember correctly I should get the file to fit rings from sealed power? and gap .005xbore? I need to redo my search to make sure my numbers are right

I have been searching the forums for an answer on my ring gaps. I plan on running around 8psi, however I will not be running boost for the first 6 months or so. (I'm really just tired of the dart not running) Is there a middle ground for ring end gaps? Will it run ok if I gap them for boost and...

anybody have a link to those valves? I've been searching ebay all morning and can't find them. Also is there a recommendation on a 4 holley model for blow thru? Can I buy one that is already set up or would it be cheaper to buy used and modify?

Ok so i should continue with my plan of stock cam grind oversize valves light port and polish with a gasket match on the head. Also shave just enough off the head and block to true them up. Just need to finish doing my research on carb and distributor

I was planning low boost. Just enough to put some pep in her step

Machine shops ballpark estimate was 150 to sleeve out 200 to bore all 6

Thank you that is exactly the info I wanted to hear. It will be going to the machine shop for more accurate measuring next week. I will post the numbers when i get them. I think my turbo build might be turning into a cammed up build.:burnout:

So i got the big ugly gouge in my cylinder wall. Cylinder 3. I micd the top of the cylinder and got an average of 3.435 (wasn't perfectly clean) so that would put my engine at .040 over if my math its right. Now i don't have the tools to measure how deep it is and i can't figure out the picture...

disk brakes?

anybody?

So my right rear wheel bearing started making noise on my way to work and on the way home it was grinding and popping. Should i repair or hit up the parts yard for a 8.8? Can i run rear disks with drums up front until i figure out my disk conversion? It should work with a correct mc and...

ok so I want to switch to bbp front disks (gotta match the soon to be bbp of the rear). I've been scrounging the parts yards and the only pre 90 mopars i could find are a 88 d50 and a couple old vans. Are there any non mopar cars that i can use to make parts fit? I'm really not tryin to spend...

Would a 73 4 door dart custom have the same size package shelf? ( I know there are some differences through the years) If so, I will definitely be hittin you up for one of those templates

I'm jealous! Just read the whole build and I'm jealous. I think maybe I should drop my dart off in your garage for a little while.

I dont know if I could trust a company that doesn't use spell check....

Yes this is my car. I promise I am not tryin to steal somebody else's car. if you don't believe me tell me how I can prove it to you.

Ignition cylinder*

Thank you. Any thoughts on getting the wheel lock to disengage without dissasembly? I'm ok with breaking my intuition cylinder

I've read both of those prior to the first post. Can someone tell more which wires to hook to which side of the toggle switch. And which wires for the starter

I"m trying to do this with as little disassembly as possible. my tools are kinda 20 miles away...

i have a chiltons... so no. And this is my only vehicle...

Lack of keys is the problem.

Ok so my 73 dart custom is in need if being hot wired. What is the best way to do this so i can drive and get a new ignition switch. Can i get the steering wheel look off without breaking it?

my car also has a january build date so I probably just got some left over 72 parts

Ends up that my 73 has small ball joints. Upper control Arm cleaned up nicely and was crack free so I welded the new ball joint in.

Is that the 90 amp one?