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A 12v cummins is pretty much completely mechanical. Few odds and ends are electric, but they dont require a computer to run. Thats one of the reason people want to swap in 12v vs the 24v cummins.

I know its not an A-body, but still for the reference, they do fit in small cars

My cousin is putting a 6bt into a dart. Its a full tube chassis car though. My other cousin put an old 12v into a fox body mustang. They do fit, they are just really tall, so a hood really isnt an option. Diesel is the way to go for power honestly. The foxbody running a small turbo, slightly...

That's pretty cool! don't see too many of them anymore.

Yeah they can be stupid quick! If I'm not wrong don't they have the 4g63 out of the lancers?

Still love my 73 dart swinger to pieces, but have a soft spot for the Japanese imports. Unlike the States, Canada has a 15 year import rule, so because of that I could import my 98 Toyota Aristo 2 years ago. For those that don't know its essentially a Supra with 4 doors. Pretty hard to beat a...

I have these on my solid roller 360 for 2 years now. They've been rock solid!

I have an 04 and I love it! I haven't dealt with the clutch because mine came with a new one. But I just did the timing belt and water pump recently and it was pretty easy. You need a special tool to do it right though. Also the 04 is the Pumpe Duse motor. The previous ALH motors were known to...

The little circled spot is the only bent part. The flexplate as a whole is still straight. Maybe a better word is it got dimpled a bit. The converter wouldn't wobble, starter sounds nice and even, but I can't start it because it's apart until my new balancer comes in.

I'm making around 380-400hp, so nothing crazy. I'm most worried about it being out of balance and messing up the trans or main bearings.

Hey guys, been away for a while and haven't been posting, been so damn busy! I was removing a crank bolt and stopped the motor by using a wrench in a flexplate hole, well it slipped a bit and made a dent in one of the holes. I'm not sure if it's bad enough to pull the trans and replace it. I'll...

They are ok. Good unless you start to push them. Alot of them have ceramic wheels in them which can break apart depending on the amount of boost you run. I have a 98 JDM toyota aristo (Lexus gs300 for North America) with a 2jz. It has a sequential twin turbo setup, spool really well but they...

I got one from a 92 dodge dakota. Been in the car for 4 years now and its been great! I got it at NAPA.

Yep, that's a 7 1/4. Hopefully there isn't much power in front of that lol

I'm starting to get more involved at my local drift track. It's honestly so much fun. The first drift car I was in was a Nissan 180sx with a turbocharged 1UZ (Toyota v8) with a 250 shot on it. The car weighed 2600 pounds...

Go with whatever the specs are, I run a .576 lift solid and it calls for 16/16, so that's what its gets.

Nope they fit nice. It only leaks alone the pushrod when the valve is closed and there is no pressure on the cup from the lash.

I paid 350 for my 742 case cone sure grip with 4.10 gears. Been in my car for a year now. Best 350 ive ever spent!

I actually didn't think about that. I dont think so, I believe that my pushrods are solid. They are custom smithbrothers pushrods. I know the rocker arms have a hole in the pushrod cup that would send oil to the rockers. I'll have to look into that. When I was priming the motor before...

Yeah they have two bushings with a big space in between them. So could this be having an impact on oil pressure then?

Thats what I was thinking too. Well it usually idles at 1000, but goes down a bit in gear. So at 1000 its about 35 PSI. It oils through the heads and then the shaft. The rockers oil the tip and the pushrod cup. its not a trickle, they are flooded lol Would restrictors up top help?

I know this is asked a lot, and a lot are probably going to say everything is fine, but I still feel like it should be higher. The motor is a 360, rebuilt last year, stock crank and rods with ARP rod bolts, KB pistons etc. Has a Lunati solid roller, 245 @50 and 580 lift with MRL lifters...

Did you verify that the harmonic balancer mark is accurate using a piston stop? You could be reading the correct timing but may actually only be running a few degrees.

I kept everything te same besides the emissions stuff. I took out the charcoal canister, plugged the vent line under the hood and added a vented gas cap. So technically I've only been driving it with a vented cap, and it still had this problem. Not really sure if that's the correct way to do...

I was assuming the carb goes empty when the fuel stops pumping and the engine is using up the fuel that is left in the carb. The AFR is exactly where it always is, doesn't get rich or anything. It just goes lean and the engine starts to stumble, it all happens within about 10 seconds. When...

To clarify, it was running perfectly fine, and then the AFR gauge went instantly lean and it shut off. I put in all new fuel lines, fuel sender, steam cleaned tank, fuel pump, fuel filter etc, so everything fuel wise is brand new and it ran all last summer without an issue. So I don't think it's...

Why would it run fine otherwise? I thought that before though and cleaned everything, and the fuel filter was nice and clean too. dropped the tank and cleaned everything so there isn't anything in the tank. Yep new cap and vent is working as it should.

I've had the problem twice now, and I don't really know what to do about it. This has happened twice now. The first time it happened was last year just before I put the car away for the winter. I was driving it, everything was running perfectly and then the AFR gauge would slowly lean out...

Well teeeecchnically you could just bolt them on, doesnt mean they will work! LOL

I second this. I was having the same dilemma last year and ended up putting in a lunati solid roller. Best decision I ever made. Sounds pretty cool with solid roller too, can definitely tell whats in there. Ive put about 4k miles on it with zero problems, monitored lash and it hasnt changed...