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can I get a quote on the dash frame sent to 61914

PM if you still have the dash intact and can get me a pic

I was wondering the rough estimate cost of having someone cut out the front frame rails and torsion bar supports and weld in factory parts that are not rusted out, trying to get a ballpark of what I could expect for someone to cut out the some rot and replace with good from subframe and torsion...

Still Available ?

full sweep clusters?

Is this sold yet?

Did ya reinforce the frame at all?

but I havent read many suggestions..as to stiffen the frame or not..can it handle a 440 with out torque boxes or frame connectors

What exhaust manifolds are you using to fit in the engine bay?

can I get a shipping quote for the rear light harness to 61914

yeah I am in the same boat... from what I have seen it should be a small plastic ring that has a small stud end sticking out that hits the cam as the wheel comes back from making the turn...I cant find one anywhere or what it would be called..

Trying to locate the fusible link on a wiring harness for a 70 dodge dart custom that goes into bulkhead port J and has a spade connector on one end and a plastic clip with a spade on the other end

ok..been doing some looking around here and there.. I have a complete color coded wiring diagram for the car, I took the chopped up wiring out from bulkhead connector in the middle marked on my diagram "J" from the back of the connector, pulled the spade out and cleaned it up and rewired for a...

ok, no here goes...the original fusible link that is leading from starter relay to the bulk head connector is no more, when i purchased this car it had a blade fuse installed in that spot... with that being said I have pulled all bulkhead connectors in the engine bay, none of them are burnt or...

so lets say I crimped the ammeter wires together and didnt rewire from the Alt to the starter relay!?!? will that cause any damage?

Yes that's with the key in the run position

I just want to tell everyone thanks for all your guys help on trying to figure this out...wish someone more elec. savvy was closer to help me but unfortunately not!

sigh...this electrical issue is wearing my brain out... between the 12hr days in the sweat shop or sweating while working on this thing I am about to whits end...here it is nm9stheham Battery-12.2 Start relay-12.05 Ign 1 feed to ballast-4.5 Ballast to coil-9.07

ok ... so decided to check around while i was working on some other things and have the negative battery cable off the car, I grab my probes and check the voltage on the battery side of the coil with + going to the battery side of the ballast and the - side goin on the battery stud and I got the...

Yeah sorry I told ya the wrong fluke model lol...I'll start tracing down wires tomorrow

ok here is my readings thats with IGN on also just changed out alternator and voltage regulator and rewired a new plug for it

And I have the 2 pin icm

Fluke 83 or 85..can't remember

10-4 will test as soon as I get home

Will have to test at a higher idle when i am not at work on my phone...sorry for the typo's

Tested battery at idle yesterday and was getting 12.2 at the battery and alternator showing 12.2 to 12.5 going to the battery with the positive clipped on the upper lead of the alternator and the . - probe grounded on the body

How to test the ignition side ...isn't all ignition side running through it... have a fluke meter... I know how to ohm and check dc voltage but did not understand what he meant by test the ignition side of the ballast

Still available?

Not sure how to test that...

With the car shut off I would pull the connectors back just far enough to probe it and it read .8 and took the car down the street and back and it started sputtering and missing so shut the car off and probed again and got a reading of 1 ohm