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Yes, the mini starters from the Magnum V6 and V8 vehicles will work with any traditional small block or big block. Older models of Magnum starters up to around have scew down wire terminals for both wires. 2000 - 2004 have a weatherpack connector for the small wire.

I'm interested, if you still have it.

I think I've actually caught myself drooling, reading this. I can't believe I might be able to offer an idea for you with regards to the steering column. I have a 1984 Diplomat unit in my '74 Duster and my '68 Dart will be getting the same...

You can use the LA motor bellhousing with the 5.7. Though, I believe you need an adapter for the flywheel. Perhaps someone else can answer more defiitively.

Just found the info for the cam and lifter kit I bought for my Powerwagon 318. I give it high recommendation as an excellent performing mild cam. The '302 heads and this cam made a my 318 a mini torque motor. http://www.lunaticams.com/Product.aspx?id=2341 It took me a while to find the link...

For a 318, I have been very happy with the later 302" casting heads from the TBI motors and a nice dual pattern High torque cam from Lunati, Moved my 3/4 ton Powerwagon around like it had a 360 in it. Dan

Definitely check out http://www.hotwireauto.com/ Some cool stuff there. Dan

I have used the 509 cam a number of times when I was younger and as predicted it produced the lumpy idle us kids were looking for but the term "Lightswitch cam" is the perfect description of the power band. If you haven't purchased it, don't. If you have purchased it, I'm sure you'll find...

On the kickdown linkage I would go with the one on the left for it's adjustability. On plugs try one heat range hotter than stock '70 340 plugs, don't have the number right here, and check the plug colour after a hard run with minimal idling after. I assume we're talking small block, I didn't...

Thanks Punkmastadart, it's nice to get some good feedback. most of the cruise nights I've gotten to have resulted in dirty looks, that is until they look under the hood and don't see a carb. Then they just look confused ;-) My setup is what I like to call "Straight Junkyard", but it's pretty...

Hey Guys, I've done this swap and it has given me the confidence to go even further on my next car. I know there is a thread on this board already talking about doing it. You can look at detailed pics on my cardomain page here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2444595 Dan

Welcome Dave, Canadians of a certain age will remember Bruce McCullough's song. Dan Calgary, Alberta

Not to take it O/T but I'd bet that spacer is made from phenolic insulating material. You used to be able to find it in old telphone connection boards, big sheets of it sometimes 2 inches thick. Great for making carb spacers, not so great to breathe the dust you create in doing so. Ok, back on...

I have chased plenty of problems like this, definitely check all grounds, but in this case, especially the taillight grounds. Dan

I have just been enjoying the rewards of this swap for the last few weeks. My best piece of advise is to use the OBD1 harness and computer to keep things simple. We have hotrods here, so going to the extra trouble of OBD2 will unnecessarily complicate things, with marginal possibily of...

I am toying with different options in my Magnum Powered Duster project. I currently have the stock driver's side manifold on it. I do have some 1st gen. Dakota manifolds and I'm looking at seeing if they will fit. The steering box on the driver's side is the main obstacle. Dan

If I Recall Correctly, bump

Just to be clear, I hope you were asserting that the AlterK kit does provide support for the coilovers, without relying on the factory shock towers. Because it does in fact have a very sturdy looking bracket on it which the coilover bolts to, suupporting the weight of the car on this bracket...