Search results for query: *

You know what I probably only put copper rtv around the outside, but i can't remember.

Steel plate is bolted in place of EGR valve blocking it off

SOLVED I threaded a pipe plug into the floor of the intake and now she idles like a kitten. So much smoother, vacuum is up to 19.5 inHg and temperatures are much closer.

That would be helpful. I'm more worried about the fact it doesnt change the idle when its unplugged vs what the temperature is.

Swapped the intake for a fresh blue painted one. Wonder if I need to plug the hole in the floor? People say no need to plug, but I left the upper plane threaded hole unplugged and those 4 cylinders were running like dog **** until I plugged it. Lower plane hole is still wide open.

450ish

5% leakage at 100psi and reluctor looks mint. Thanks for the suggestions

What could cause a dead cylinder at idle (no change in idle when unplugged) low temp on header collector (230F compared to ~450F on other cylinders) and what to check next? I've swapped plug and wire with neighboring cylinder and there was no change. Cap and rotor are pretty new 1990 stock 360...

I'm around Placerville, I'd love to come grab one.

Hopefully someone has a junk WW lying around. I literally only need the accelerator pump spring, but if i have to buy the whole carb so be it.

Ok if anyone stumbled upon this thread, here's the factory service manual pages for the 1.06 (aka Federal) pump

Ok! I found the little hole to drive the retaining ring inwards... it was just plugged up with some junk and hard to see.

How the F do you get this retaining ring out? And what about this weird little fitting? All anyone ever says about rebuilding this pump is that "It's easy". Its not so easy to me.

Scored this for $60. Excited to try it out on something soon.

Update: Had to blow the thing all apart and clean and relubricate since the slides/ways were jammed up. Replaced coolant pump hoses and that's working well now. Still trying to figure out how to properly adjust the lead screw things as the work table is a bit uneven with its travel while...

I got this B&D valve refacer in a trade and it needs some work and is missing some pieces. Does anyone know what the diamond tipped stone dresser tool looks like, and if they’re still available?

Where can I find more information on registering for the racing?

That looks like a later model pulley. No integrated rubber balancer thingy, and there are 2 pairs of identical grooves. But thanks to another member I have found the parts I was looking for.

Thanks that would be much appreciated.

Those pictures are not my car, but the idler is for the crankshaft to water pump belt tension. The alternator is what is used to tension the AC belts.

I need a 4 groove crank pulley to reinstall the PS and AC on my 1965 Dart. I've been searching for this elusive pulley for many months now, does anyone know if this is unique to 1965? I have seen many photos of setups with only 3 grooves. This is what it should look like:

Thanks for looking Moper

273 is a different pulley with a rubber damper built in and different diameters. But thank you Del, I appreciate it

Still looking for the 1965 273 4 groove crank pulley, and idler for waterpump to crank. Thank you

Here's a pic of 65dartcharger's beautiful 65

Crank pulley 2 grooves for alternator and AC, 1 groove for water pump, 1 groove for PS

I am looking for a 1965 Dart (273 automatic) transmission power steering shaft. And the coupler too. Let me know about any other early A PS parts you may have.

Pending “sale”

Pending “sale”

Pics