Search results for query: *

$9000 With a little bit of wiggle room...

Had it for a couple years now, somebody put work into it before me but it sat and needed love. Replaced everything rubber under the hood, every gasket but the rear main, runs hard. Was rebuilt at some point and cylinders still have cross hatch (can prove it with my borescope). Aluminum...

Good info, thanks! Yes I am aware of the fronts and the swaging, going to take my time on those so I don’t waller out the hole and have to go to a different size knurl.

Anybody have part numbers for front and rear studs? Searched and I can’t locate any, only thread and knurl sizes. Stock manual drums front and rear, just hoping someone knew of some dorman numbers off hand. Thanks!

Replied to you in the messages!

Message sent!!

Gotcha. Everywhere I look they are discontinued or obsolete and no longer carried. Mine leaks in the center where the porcelain and metal come together.

Should have stated it’s a 64 pushbutton 904.

Mine is leaking in the center and I need a new one, but I can’t find one anywhere. Anyone know where I can find one, and if not, can I make a short style 3 prong work somehow?

Filter is brand new, as is the fluid. Anybody have a pdf for the manual to adjust the bands? I’ve got a small pan leak so I have to drop it anyways, might as well check everything else

I already have the Lokar bracket, I’ve got their throttle cable. I’m starting to think this thing has some internal problems now. I’m going to change fluid and see if there are any sparkles. It pulls hard and does not slip at all, but it’s got a mind of its own shifting gears.

I swapped my DEX4 out with ATF4 when I put the deep pan on, I think it liked DEX better. Shifts fine manually but has a hard time coming out of first and isn’t going to 3rd when in “D” with this cable.

Newly installed a Lokar cable and am having problemos. I’ve been playing with the adjustment very slightly and can’t seem to get it into 3rd, also it will not kickdown when flooring the go pedal. I have not had the trans out, this is how it came with the car and I only added the cable. It...

I should had put that in the ad, my apologies. I’m not 100% sure but they are 5 1/2” or 6”, I’ll try and measure today.

Prefer to keep this as a package at the moment

Red 14” SBP steel wheels with tires and dog dish caps. Excellent ‘driver’ condition a bit dusty from sitting. Tires are good to roll around on and are in good shape but are a bit old, 185/75-14’s. Looking to get $250 and located in a Fort Worth Texas.

Swapped to a dual field alternator and electronic voltage regulator. Been chasing the reason why the battery drains.

VR installed and running. 12.3-12.5 dcv at the battery when running and 12.0 dcv when off. The ammeter now moves as the revs go up, is this normal?

Will wiring in the later style voltage regulator screw with my electronic ignition? I've got a DUI distributor mounted ignition module...

I’ll scoop up a regulator from the parts store and take my alternator in with me to get tested at the same time.

Only keeps about 11.7-11.9v while running at idle. Is it a problem if I get a new dual field alternator and ground one field like I have right now? If I get a single field I’ll have to redo some bracketry.

It probably kicks on every 5-10 mins or so when up to temp and runs for probably 2-3 mins. Car stays at 190 degrees no matter what the OAT is.

Nothing is fried and the car runs fine, it just can’t keep the battery charged. Currently searching the forums, is there a go to place to get a harness and VR to match the 2 field? Or should I just replace it with a single field?

Trying to identify this thing to replace/upgrade it. It won’t keep my battery charged after roughly 2-3 hours of driving. Noob on electrical systems for mopars, I’ve got a 64 dart with a mild 273, only extra electrical load is a single electric fan.

FIXED. New intake gaskets, carb gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and all new hoses. Runs so much better and smoother and no smoke! I haven’t beat on it just yet, still taking it easy to make sure all is good. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and input!

Yup, heads and intake have not machined and the fit was good, all bolt holes lined up well when removed, not anticipating any problems getting it to snug up nicely. It looks like the larger gasket ports may have hung below the intake a bit, either way the smaller port gaskets will be going on it.

I have never changed the gaskets, I’m chasing problems that have manifested after buying the car. The bolts were good and snug none were loose. The gaskets were definitely the larger port 340/360 gaskets because I bought the wrong size to replace these, I bought felpro 1213’s and it needs...

Yep, it’s a 318/360 performer, the heads are 675’s.

Going to re-inspect tomorrow in the day light, but from everything so far it looks that way!