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UPDATE: I know it's been a long, long time. Anyways, I'm back at it and after purchasing an OEM ECU (ICU), and hooking it back up, the old Dart fires right up without issue. I believe the aftermarket junk ICU was a problem, but not THE problem that caused it to shut off when I hit the pothole. I...

Looking at that diagram and comparing it to mine, then it's wired correctly. So now I just need to put the components back together and try firing it up. Yes, I'll need to clear the area of any paint, use the correct washers as previously recommended, same with the larger screws to make sure...

Perfect. So I won't trace. As soon as I get the new ECU in the mail from Halifaxgod, I'll hook it back up and test the voltage measurements as instructed.

I deleted my diagram post because the plug at the ECU was upside down, my bad. So here it is corrected.

I just tried to turn the distributor by hand and it doesn't move.

When I have an hour of down time over the next few days, I'll be mapping out my exact wiring diagram, color coding it, and posting for all to critique. All the wires have been wrapped together so I'll be removing that wrapping to see what the heck is going on and where each one goes. I'll do the...

Here’s a little wire map I made. Plus some additional photos. I’m considering what to do with the four wires at the ballast resistor to bypass them.

Ok. Seems odd that they have the same photo as yours. Do you venmo? or hows that work?

Same photo here... Chrysler 4-Pin Ignition Control Module Made In USA Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler | eBay Is that seller you? And for $9? Seems unreal.

I may take you up on that, but I want to get working parts before I start stringing them together. There's a solid chance based on the advice here and my independent reading/researching that I have **** strung together that doesn't belong there. Ex: if I have electronic ignition and not points...

Are the blue tested ones the Chinese made junk or are these American made? Happy to buy if they'll stand the test of time. Can't send you the one I have now...just ripped it apart to confirm two things: filled with sand and the transistor is an empty shell. Was kinda fun tearing it apart with a...

In looking at your post, looks like you got a few original ECUs for sale. Still have them? I'll buy one.

Good lord...so who wants a free flight to Charleston, SC, a two day hotel stay, and a few hundred bucks to just figure it out while I watch? Ha!

Thank you all for your advice. Check this out....(see photos) the plug going into the ECU has 5 wires, 5 prongs on the plug. The ECU itself has four prongs. Not a rocket scientist here but shouldn’t the ECU have 5 prongs to match 5 wires?

I bought a new cap. It does look a little beat. I don’t know electronics. Is the transistor the round thing with two bolts sticking out of it?

Some additional info: it has a painless wiring kit. Not factory wires. This is honestly out of my league. I’m in finance and classic cars are a love of mine when they work as designed. I inherited this from my grandfather. Just trying to keep it alive. Should I find a shop who specializes in...

how do I tell if it has a real transistor? Photos below.

See photos below. Tried to get multiple angles. I do have a multimeter.

Ok....I had a local garage upgrade from points to electronic in the distributor cap. Replaced coil with Blaster 3, still using ballast resistor. See photo. Car stopped running, won’t fire up, a few months ago and I’m just getting around to working on it again myself. I’m an idiot when it comes...

So I confirmed this: The gray wire is attached to negative side of coil. So it must pair with the green. See photo of dixco box below. Black “should” be ground. So black to black. My issue is the second Red. Box says “switched 12 volts” which is Greek to me.

I have no idea what each does.

I bought a replacement Dixco Hood Tach for my 1965 Dart 270 Conv. Yes, I know...it’s not original, that’s not the point. Old tach had four wires, new tach has three. I have four wires coming through the hood. Can anyone offer a color to color combination to help me out? Photo for reference...

I literately just unhooked it off the car and took photos of it in the process before I uploaded them here. I made the decision last night to just take it completely apart and found out that the spring inside is completely rusted and fused to the copper coils. Looks like it got some water in it...

I own a 1965 Dodge Dart 270 Convertible that is finally back in my hands from months of rework, upgrades, and tuning. Long story.... Today, I decided to take apart the hood mounted tach that looks awesome but isn’t functional for some reason. I know it’s not original and it may even be from a...

The original manifold sat just below the face of the head. So I can only assume that Mopar molded their version from the original versions that had a 1/4 inch of room there. Perhaps Edelbrock could mill a groove or shave a bit off of their aftermarket manifold. But you're right...Mopar should...

Haha....my lifetime warranty was all of about 2 months. A lifetime for non-functioning valve covers. I suspect mine will last well beyond my death!

A few months ago, I upgrade my ‘66 273 intake manifold and carb to an Edelbrock 4bbl set-up. In the process, I decided to change the valve covers to the aluminum black Mopar Performance ones. I installed it all correctly and noticed that the lip on the valve cover was making contact with the...

Just got back from vacation and had it in the mail. Opened it up and it fits and looks perfect. Thank you!

Here's a link for the instructions that shows the proper set up at the carb showing one spring on page 2. https://www.lokar.com/assets/instructions/INS0046-ChryslerKickdown.pdf

Are you adding your comments to Dave's suggestion that there should be a forward spring in addition to the KD spring provided by Lokar? If this is what you mean, the diagram posted by MoparLeo would seem to confirm a "two-spring" set up.