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Thanks for the reply, all 3 had the "in" stamped on the case. It ended up being the pump

Like it was pushing too much fuel and backing up at the filter. I've never experienced this from a bad pump.

Thanks everyone, No sir, I was asking if it could be the fuel mixture or the fuel pump

Thanks everyone, I replaced the fuel pump and the problem is solved!

It's leaking at the line

So my 67 dart gt fuel filter is spraying fuel out. It's a 273 with a 500cfm edelbrock carb (brand new, maybe 200 miles on it) I'm on my 3rd fuel filter in 1 day. I've removed the Top of the carb to see if it was plugged up, nothing. The tank, sending unit and lines are new, wich was evident by...

Dumb *** question time! I'm installing a new dash wire harness in my 67 Dart and I decided to replace the ignition switch since I'm in there. I got a new one from Laysons buttttt, the new one has an extra terminal for a ground. Will this cause any issues with the new harness? (New harness is...

UPDATE: Once I got the harness almost out I found the there was a wire spliced into the ignition switch connection (I'll post a picture) the wire ran thru the firewall to the ignition connection on the voltage regulator, with a smaller wire also connected to the ignition connection, but ran to...

I'm not planning on reinstalling it when I'm done, see what it does then

I did that and it acted like it should! Even dumps down a bit when cranking the engine. I hear what your saying and I'm surprised as well! But like I said I'm not done tearing the rats nest out from under the dash. Its a total **** show, bunch of after market gauges and lights

I meant 18 gauge under the dash, the jumper wire is 12 gauge. And when I was having issues with the voltage regulator (was just not getting a good ground) I check it constantly with a multi meter multiple times and was getting 14 volts on the battery and the gauge would read just a hair to the...

My bad earlier saying it was + and -, I just skipped saying red and black wire. The gauge works great I was just curious if anyone had seen this before, granted I'm not done rooting through the **** show of rewiring (all blue and looks to be 18 gauge except for the tan home stereo speaker wires...

I'm installing a new dash wire harness in my 67 Dart GT, aside from needing to solder some pins back into the circuit board, the board looks to be in great shape. Except it has a wire connecting the + and - posts on the alternator gauge(on top of the standard red and black wires). This is my...

The turn signal flasher wires went up in flames the other day and there is so much aftermarket **** that has been wired in then taken out and different **** re rewired in. I'd rather just rip it out and start fresh. Also, I hate electrical work

Well this thing is a wiring nightmare, looks like its been owned by 4 or 5 Chevy dudes. Any recommendations on a good company to get a harness from (at the least, the dash harness). I live in Tacoma WA and I've gone to Laysons for some things but they seem rather pricey. Year One, perhaps?

I found a complete wiring harness from a 69 Dart, any reason it wouldn't work in my 67 Dart? Thought I'd ask the A body bosses, first

Sorry I disappeared for a bit everyone, work has been brutal. And thanks, everyone, for the info. The 67 Dart is fixed, (sanded the firewall where the voltage regulator bolts up and boom! 13.8 at idle with all accessories on) and the 66 Town & County's male connection at the bulk head is broken...

Yeah I said when you brought the RPMs up it sits where it should be (13.5ish) I'm suspecting bad ground at the firewall

Thanks everyone

By one wire, I meant 1 field connection not two (later mopar alternators) it also has the battery stud, sorry

I'm on my 4th voltage regulator, this last one was one of the upgraded solid state guts ones (it came from a dude in Texas but has made in China stamped on it?) The gauge has never pegged out and this last one worked great for about 5 car rides! The gauge reads low and I'm getting @ 12.5 when...

It looked like the previous owner had tried to disable the secondaries with a peice of wire, plus I got one of those Edelbrock spacers 2732 and while it's not perfect yet, it doesn't idle at 2k anymore

Ok got the secondaries free'd up, so far so good...maybe....

Yes sir

The choke operates like a charm and the secondaries aren't hitting anything. I'm gonna pull it apart and see if its jammed up internally

So sorta update, the intake looks good (super clean and no cracks) and the carb isn't hanging up on anything. Buttttt, the secondaries are stuck about 1/4 open and wont budge. Although I can open them with a screwdriver but not close them. Could that be the issue?

DAMMIT I was sorta thinking the same thing about the holes

Dumb question time, since it has the C.A.P. intake should I time it to 5 ATDC (according to my old *** repair manual)