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I did a voltmeter check tonight when everything was just barely warming up, while running. From a long pigtail attached at the VR IGN, I measured 13.99V to 14.00V when grounding at the battery. Between VR IGN and the VR case was exactly the same at 13.99V to 14.00V. All this while the battery...

An answer has been found.......or at least a solution possibly. I'm going to say cautiously that both cheap voltage regulators were(are) junk. Some day I'll try them out in my '75 D300 dump truck to see what happens. I had run it the other day when the temp was back down to 9 degrees F. With a...

Now it's back down in the 30's temperature-wise and I'm seeing high 14's but not 15V at cold startup. Once it warms up it settles down to no more than 14.62V. This all seems really good but I'm not sure what I did to "fix" it......The only thing that I did was to clean the cables and terminals...

OK, so I'll try to do the voltage drop test tonight, but here's some new info. This past weekend when it was 60 degrees compared to "normal" 20 degrees for Dec/Jan in Vermont, I re-installed my almost new battery and fired it up. 14.7 V stone cold......not so scary. At high idle it started to...

Last night I tried a battery from car that hasn't been used much recently......measured at 12.4 V. Starting up it read between 14.7 and 14.9 right off, but by the time the choke opened up, there it was jumping up over 15 V again. I just bought a new multi-meter and I have an adjustable VR on...

With a just-charged battery at 13.1, I measured 13.0 at my ignition circuit connector and got 12.8 at the blue field wire connector.......this with engine off but ignition on, grounding off battery or my 10 ga ground stud.

So, I added a 10ga ground wire from alt case to VR to battery to no avail buts it's still a good addition to a rusty old truck....still getting 15.1-15.4V at battery posts with and without loads. I can get a V reading off the splice of my new positive VR (blue wire) connector......is that a good...

I have not had time to get back out with the volt meter, but I have several things to try, thanks to all. I'll get some photos and show where I get what in a couple of days.

Thanks to all, this gives me a few things to test. I've had my share of Mopar truck amp meter meltdowns. Being a pretty whipped northeast vehicle, the harness became unworkable so I've been plowing for the last two years, running off a relay switched marine fuse box that I run only start...

So, I have checked in now and again for Mopar tips, and the crew here has been extremely helpful over the years, even though I no longer have my '69 273 Dart. I'm currently running a '72 Dodge W200 (318/727) plow truck and having overcharging issues. I have a new parts-house rebuilt...

OK, so I've been doing great with a bone stock '73 318 electronic distributor wired to a GM HEI module on a heat sink using the correct coil for such an arrangement. Accidentally left ignition "on" for several days and now she's quit sparkin' altogether. For 10 points….what did I fry? Got two...

Thanks, that's what I thought. I had the 83 manifolds surface ground and will assemble with 360 gaskets against the 318 heads. I will then have my pipe bender guy build me a stainless 2 1/2" dual system with either an X pipe or H pipe, the idea being to build a good exhaust system once for a...

A small apology for a non-A body Mopar small block exhaust question. So, I'm wanting to put 83 truck ex manifolds (from 4bbl 318 w/air injection big port heads) on my 72 truck 318 with stock heads. The air ports shouldn't matter and I'll get to use bigger down pipes. Then if I go with a 360...

This morning I took apart the firewall connector that includes the biggest red wire right off the starter relay (the one with a fusible link) and voila! Once I cleaned both sides of the firewall connector with electrical parts cleaner and a wire brush and pushed it all back together everything...

I no longer own an A-body (had a '69 273 Dart) but now run a '72 W200 plow truck with 318 and 727. Everything is basically un-molested original Mopar except for a homemade HEI conversion (many thanks to this forum). After experiencing occasional complete blackouts of the wiring harness, I now...

I think I'll rebuild a couple of the 2280 Holley carbs myself as I've had only temporary success with most of my own BBD O'hauls (Only one was good for years). As far as the Motorcraft goes.... I'd do it in a heartbeat if this next round of rebuilding does not do the trick. I have heard that...

I'm running a stock 1972 Dodge W200 (318) and am searching for the best long term carb choice for a general use low RPM plow truck. I wind it out on blacktop sometimes, but generally this truck lives under 3500rpm. I'd build a different motor if I wanted to set the world on fire! I...

My 1975 318 powered dump truck starts and idles fine, revs up nice but lacks power and backfires thru the carb at mid throttle even in neutral with no load.. Definitely a lean burn problem. Carb works fine on my other truck...have tried with two other complete ignition systems with exact same...

Probably been written up a number of times....but here goes...how can I get my truck to hold 1st gear indefinitely when plowing..it tends to shift up to second when I'd rather have her wind up higher for more power. Stock 318, stock linkage.

So anyway...the 'ole 318 workhorse has been ridden hard and put away wet this snowy week! I got right bank intake manifold bolts to tighten a tad and she's much happier. Bought gaskets to do it up right but then I was going to yank the motor in the spring for long over due attention. Thanks for...

Hi folks. I have had a nagging problem with my generally very reliable 318 powered 1973 W200 Sno-Fighter factory plow truck. Once warmed up, it doesn't like to run much below 1300 rpm or so and will not idle without constant pedal twitching. All this with three different Carters BBD's and now...

Actually I run a separate starter button also dedicated. I had issues with power brownouts until I cleaned up the bulkhead connectors and started feeding the ignition directly. Maybe I'll try running off the ballast feed like you mention......I don't read quite as high a voltage there as...

I run a separate on/off toggle to feed battery power to a non stock electronic ignition in my '73 Power Wagon. As it is now, once started, I need to run with the ignition key in the "on" position in order to get charging juice back into the battery. The charging system is bone stock original...

I run the DUI Tri-Power setup which is a basically stock Mopar distributor with a GM style module bolted onto its side. I had to extend the wires and move the module to the firewall for clearance. I run their beastly "Livewires" to stock Autolite platinum plugs now set at .055". The kit also...

So now I'm going to rebuild my '72 shortblock while I beat the final tar out of my hi mileage '73 (installed in '73 W200 Snofiter factory plow truck) . Then, next summer when I pull the '73, I'll have the '73 heads done and bolt them onto the '72 block. Will my comp ratio be similar given all...

Well I have improved things by switching to a known good battery, disassembling and cleaning the bulkhead connectors and changing out the ballast again...I think just fooling with the 'ol wires is what did the most for it. When running nicely I now get around 8V at the wire going to ignition. My...

I'm talking intermittent poor spark quality and dieing at idle....even though all electronic ignition parts are new or known to be good and carb runs fine on other 318. My charging system keeps my battery up OK but somehow I have occasionally low ignition voltage especially when warm....works...

I am having traditional Dodge low voltage issues (1973 plow truck) due to poor firewall connections and probably the damn amp gauge as well. I have been studying the MAD info and excellent photos and documentation provided on such improvements and will be doing all those mods one day when my...

Thanks guys...I've got my sleuth work lined up for tomorrow. Hadn't thought of the charging circuit...no snow in the immediate forecast....but I'd better get the volt meter out again!

I got just under twelve volts at three of the four connections and seven at the fourth connection, while running smoothly. Then the seven volts deteriorated to more like six then four at which point the engine died. New: Pickup Cap Rotor Control module Ballast