I was ware that the 3 and 5 were the core bins numbered 1 to 5.Here's what my Chrysler Corporation Part and casting numbers book says:
casting #3418915- 1970-71 360 open chamber 1.88, 1.6 (J,Z,O)
casting #3418915- 1970 340 T/A open chamber 2.02, 1.6 (O, U)
casting #3418915- 1971-72...
I have a new pan , never installed .Purchased it for a Lil Red Express but never installed it , and no longer have the truck .But long way to ship for sure.
You could have the right hose , but the nipple could have been changed. One is #70637 , 1971 TO 1976 V8 ,Dayco, the other is #70468 1963 TO 1969.V8 Dayco.
I think the biggest thing is working off your back , everything seems to be slow , rather than pulling it, and working standing up with the engine on a stand.I have never did it on an A body , but on a B body takes time and alot smaller oil base but still have to take the engine up and remove...
I had plenty of 340,s 360,s over the last 25 plus years , and every small block at idle hot ran around 12, 13 psi .My father was aChrysler mechanic for over 20 years and he always told me it only takes 6 psi to put the light out .And right now my 340 Dart Sport runs about 10 to 13 hot , never...
Wonder why Fram sucks . I sold them for almost 20 years , and still use them today , not easy to get here where i live now , but never ever had an issue with fram .I was able to buy them at Walmart , but last time i went thet were selling Purolator.
PH43 is the right fram filter, Ph8a is a Phord filter , but will work on alot of Mopar applications , I know i cannot get a Ph8a on my 73 Dart Sport 340 , not enough room.
I would never pay that much money for an engine you know nothing about internally , i would possibly purchase a complete 360,318 ect , sometimes get them really really cheap , even give aways , rebuid one of these .Away to steep it will be a money pit for sure , after you get it checked .
You might be able to run a J head , but i know you cannot run an X head , i tried it years ago , when i was about 18 .Found out after i run it the block has got to be notched for the large intake valve .The valve actually hits the block .But since the stock valve is 1.78 and the J is 1.80 prob...
I am sorry, anybody that i offended .I know now i should not have gave any comment .But there was once when i put a question on here and had 5 or 6 people jump all over me because of it .Again i oppologize to 1973dusterkid. I will be done with questions or comments on here for good.
You know , i wonder some times. If you are on a Mopar site , you own a mopar , you drive it .If you do not know the little things , like where to find casting #,s, .A Chebby, or Phord guy could find these , on a MOPAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I made a big mistake one time back in the early days and put "x' heads on a 1965 273 .If you do not want any compression in a hurry , don,t do it .The block had to be notched and i did not read enough , and was very young at the time .
Take the plug out #1, turn it over with cap and wires off , make sure it is on compression it will shove your thunb right off , if the rotor is pointing to number one after you found compression drivers side front , you got her put your cap back on . set your timing at 12 degrees in 72 i think.
This is Normal for small block dodge , unless you are using a high pressure pump ect , my 340 stock runs at 19 psi hot .It only taks 6 psi to put the light out on the dash.