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No need for further research. You wont be disappointed.

Well im hoping its a flaw in the headwork, otherwise im completely stumped because i carefully picked my combo. Obviously in hindsight i shouldve checked the heads but i trusted a shop that does them every day more than myself. Maybe i shouldnt have. Hopefully in a week or two ill have pics and...

Thats the insight i was looking for, i do not know about shims or clearance as i did not assemble them. Now i know what to check at disassembly, what should stem to guide clearance be?

Thanks for all the replies! Let me try to answer some questions. The first time it happened it was ex #7, second time in #7. This time it is intake #5. The heads were fitted with bigger valves and ported by what i thought was a reputable shop but with this being the third time i definatley wont...

Pushrod is junk, probably bent too but i didnt pull it out. How tough are roller cams? When this happened with my solid flat tappet cam it took out a lobe. Im REALLY hoping thats not the case with my hydraulic roller. Sorry if pic size is off, stuggling with the phone here haha

Contact patch looks good as far as i know, i checked it at assembly and it was right in the center

Rocker is hopefully salvageable once its all cleaned up

I dont know if anyone remembers my other thread, but this is the third time this has happened to me. First two times were RHS heads and they didnt even last 10 min before sticking a valve. This set is EQ, ported with 2.02in/1.60ex. I have about 1000 miles on this combo. I have included some...

Maybe its the tires... :burnout:

they tuned the 4 corner screws, added a little timing, changed primary and secondary mains, changed the power valve and i think the high and low speed air bleeds? im not exactly sure on that one though. all in the bill was $560 and they had it 4 days. that involved tuning on the dyno and...

just got the car back! it put down 320whp/320wtq so considering its just a lowly 318 im pretty happy with almost 400hp at the crank! i dont know how to upload dyno sheets but peak torque is at 3900 and peak hp at 6300rpm. the curve looks nice but right after peak power it takes a nose dive and...

Dropping it off tomorrow! They said theyll need it all week though so i wont have any info til next weekend. This is my first build...hope it holds together!

yes fully balanced with a fluidampr and aluminum flywheel. looking back i dont know why i skimped on pistons, that seems to be the weak link in my setup. oh well, nothing im gonna do about it now haha but i wish i could dyno it tomorrow. im really impatient now

thanks for the reply, i looked into that and also west bend dyno tuning. they both seem identical in price and experience so based off of distance alone i think im going to use west bend, ill update with results if anyones interested. im scheduled for may 19th, hopefully it holds together. i...

im not looking for someone to tell me a number, im looking for someone to help me tune it. change jets, power valves, adjust secondaries, timing curves ect. i do have some extra dist. springs and an adjustable advance limiter plate but im looking for an old expert to help me out...i dont even...

later on last year i finally got my duster up and running and i have about 1000 miles on the motor but it seems sluggish with a dead spot in the throttle. the plugs look good but the car stinks pretty bad. im looking for a knowledgeable person with a chassis dyno in the midwest. i would like to...

so i swapped out the power valve for a 8.5 and while i had it apart i investigated the lack of ported vacuum and it seems the proform main body doesnt have it. where do i go from here? i have been researching it and it sounds like the main body can be drilled for ported vacuum, has anyone...

well i havent really USED it but so far so good. has a good sound to it and not too radical, im very happy with it in my combo

that will be my next step, it is a 4 spd. i spent today changing advance springs and fixing another issue that came up with the car. i got the curve to be 18* initial and be all in 36* at 3200 rpm. carb is next but it already runs a little better. thanks guys! i wouldve never though PV is the...

i will keep that in mind as well! right now my plan is to take it apart today and track down why the ported vacuum is plugged. maybe thats contributing to other problems. then i will try a bigger PV and upping the secondaries. its just hard for me to believe i need to throw all this fuel at a 318!

4.5 to 8.5 is a big jump! what does that do exactly? its cheap and easy to try i just like to understand what i'm doing as well...doesn't it temporarily "increase" the main jet size when accelerating? i don't have much experience...only 19 but trying to catch up with you guys! the knowledge base...

will that cause the pop as well? how early is too early to be all in? i will look into that as well, i might even have the springs i need laying around

also i just took it for a ride and i eased down on the gas past the hesitation (2-3k) and it popped so i let off right away. it sounded like it backfired out the carb. the plugs look a little lean. maybe whatever is blocking that port is also causing an issue with the carb?? im open to any...

thanks for the quick response! thats the reassurance i needed before taking it apart to look, ill see if i can get a picture up. if it worked i circled what i think is the ported vacuum in green. the blue tip sticking out from under the bowlis the plug on the direct port that i got readings from

I recently got my 318 on the road, heres my combo in detail or skip to the bottom paragraph for the short version: Engine: '72 318, .030 over, kb167's zero decked, scat i-beam rods, forged crank, fully ported EQ heads with 2.02 intakes, voodoo hyd roller cam (.535IN/.550EX 231IN/239EX dur @...

i bought them from mopar madness who fitted 2.02 valves and ported them. i was told they were ready to run right out of the box both times. i know most people are saying piston to valve clearance but then why wasn't it the same valve both times? and why didn't both valves have marks even if...

i dont think it hit that hard. the piston has marks that i can only feel a little ridge, i think i figured out the pics, these should be of the piston and head the first and second time. first time exhaust stuck open, then intake. see what you guys think

i assembled the engine myself. i had all the machine work done and bought complete heads. i checked absolutely everything...except piston to valve clearance. i realize this was a big mistake. i will check it when i get the heads back again. i have pics of the head and piston but i dont know how...

thanks for the help guys. i wont be able to work on it until this weekend but at least i have a game plan now. ill figure out what my clearance is and post up my results

and i will bust out the clay and see what i come up with for piston to valve clearance. i dont know at this point. running xe285hl cam and kb167's zero decked with .039 head gasket. how much do i need?