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I should note that the only reason I do it this way is that many of the cars that come into my shop come in bare metal from a media blaster. The first thing I do is clean it up and put it in epoxy. Then I can analyze the damage and order the replacement panels or fabricate them. Rust happens...

It depends. If you are ready for paint, you can use a wet on wet sealer system that allows you to seal, wait for the recommended flash time, spray the base coats, flash and then clear. This is the way production body shops do it. Fast and easy = $$$. But, for a restoration I sand between...

You gotta wonder what they were thinking? I wish I could meet a "coating applicator".... I understand that these cars were just transportation at the time, but seriously... take some pride in your work! If you ordered a 2011 Challenger, and the trunk looked like that you would refuse it...

Thanks for the link 1968formulaS340. Lots of stuff to sort through. Should keep me out of the bar this weekend :-)

Yes Snake. That is what I was looking for. And anyone else who may have a pic or two, thanks in advance. I have some pics from when I got the car, but the blaster took care of all the loose stuff. Thankfully the seam sealer (yes. very, very ugly but beautiful in it's own weird way) is in...

No one has an un-molested quarter panel??? This car was sent to my shop after the blaster got done with it, so I don't have any pics of the before coating.

I would love to see some of the factory's slopped on, running, oozing, inner panel coating. Original stuff or 100% accurate re-coating. Working on a '69 GTS 440 and this guys is fussy... I need to get it perfect (or sloppy, shitty, accurate factory quality :-)

Soda does a great job of removing paint but you will still need sand to blast any rusty areas. You also have to neutralize the metal after soda blasting. It leaves a film on the surface that needs to be removed for paint to stick. And it's just as messy!

If you wet sand the run it will not make it glossy but it will not match the rest of the piece. If you buff it after sanding it will be glossier than it would be if you just painted it. 99% of the time, if I have to sand a flaw in a semi gloss/flat color I sand and re-shoot it. Little dust...

You could find every single spotweld on the roof skin and drill them out to remove the skin but I think that replacing the entire roof at the pilars would be faster IF you get it right. You need to take a million measurements and test fit every thing (doors, glass, trim, etc.) before proceeding...

Until you asked this question I had never noticed that some start at the cowl and some start at the top of the A-pillar (like mine). I think that the top of the A-pillar looks convertiblish. Wonder why there are so many different ways it was done? Maybe it depends on the year??

not a great pic for detail but here is mine anyway

Their offer was some roloc wheels to re-prep the areas. Real good customer service :thebirdm: I've kept my promise though, I send everyone I can to that link and let them decide. The really sad part is that from what I saw the area that is peeling was rust free, lightly blasted metal...

You'll have to determine where the cuts will have to be made but here is the set of air hammer bits I use: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=73789&group_ID=844&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog I would say that I use the two outside bits for 99% of the chiseling...

I disagree: http://forum.eastwoodco.com/showthread.php?t=8356 Haven't seen a failure of POR or Chassis Saver yet although I don't use rust converters/encapsulaters very often. I prefer to remove the rust when ever possible or feasible.

I think Secret Audio has a hide-away antenna. I'm not too sure about the reception but it's an option. I think all cars look better without an antenna. (But for some reason I always add a passenger side mirror for "symmetry")

Well that explains the Piss Poor Gloss on my Dart!

I just finished installing a pair of their full quarters on a Roadrunner and they were soooooo much better in fit and quality then the lower panels we are all used to using. When they are available I wouldn't hesitate to buy them!

The mini's are made by BMW aren't they? I'm looking through my chip book and I don't see anything about mini cooper's. If I am right about being owned by BMW, I looked at their color chips and don't see anything real close to B5. Do you have a dealer nearby? Find one and ask the salesman...

If they are bubbles, then it is rusted through. When you are ready to fix them I would sandblast the spots and you will see small holes where the moisture is getting behind the paint and causing your bubbles. The cheap fix is to weld the holes shut but odds are that something will appear in...

I agree with Adam, it's all stamped in the same place these days. I put in a huge order for a '68 Coronet R/T that is in the shop and the parts were drop shipped from about 4 different places. Seems that lately no one stocks a warehouse (i suppose the price of steel is doing it).

RedFish summed it up pretty good. Aftermarket panels are alot of work compared to an easy collision repair. Rust and previous repairs are all I do these days. The estimates you recieved are not that far out of line depending on what your local shop rates are. I am at $45.00 and hour. It...