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Thanks but its a brand new carburetor with only 50 miles on it now.

No you misunderstood. I shut both doors and lock the doors with a key standing outside the car. When I use the outside door handle the car opens and as I push the button on the handle the black button inside the car pops up and in you go.

I will check that this weekend and make adjustments.

When I lock either door, all I have to do is push on the door handle button and it unlocks, the button pops up and the door opens. I can lock it by holding the handle button and shutting the door and the lock button remains down but when I push on the handle button the lock pops up and you are...

A general engine question, I have a 64 273 V-8 non comando engine with a 4 barrel 600cfm edlebrock carburetor automatic choke. When the car is cold it idles fine, 750 rpm, when it warms up it is at 550 rpm when the needle passed the middle a little bit and the engine is fully warmed up and its...

It is stock, previous owner installed a mild cam. My mechanic spoke with the company in Syracuse that is rebuilding it and he provide all the info setting the stall at the 2500-2700 range. Yes I do have a tranny cooler. It is not a comando it's a standard with a 4 barrel.

Just cruising down the road but want to be respectable. Sounds like the converter is the way to go then. I also notice that currently the tranny shifts all the gears at low RPM's by 30 I am in 3rd. Of course manually shifting I am able to shift at higher RPM's and it moves better.

My mechanic feels I will get more pep or off the line performance by by having the torque converter rebuilt with a higher pounds opposed to going from 3.23 to 3.91 gears in the rear end. The car is a 64 valiant with a 273 auto, 4 barrel carburetor. I've never done either so what are your...

OK everyone thanks for your help through serial numbers this is the rear end in the car: 8 3/4 a 1967 part from a1968 Plymouth GTX. Thoughts everyone, a strong rear end?

All the info I shared is what my mechanic told me. It has a bent axle and needs new rear shoes. He was wondering what type of car it came out of. The pumpkin un-bolts from the drive shaft side which lends me to think it came from a ford. 8.5 inch posi traction (may be the incorrect nomenclature...

Is it possible it is a ford rear end? Posi meaning positive traction. One wheel does not spin without the other.

I bought my 64 valiant that had its rear end changed. I is a posi traction 8 1/2 seems to have 3.23 or so gears in it. I pulled the drums to install new brake shoes and they seem only 1.5 inches wide where I believe the factory rear end had wider shoes. My question is what is the most common...

Are these available anywhere? Reproductions?

Is the Valiant trunk lid the same for a 64 and 65?

My pedal is rock hard not spongy it is just rock hard near the bottom of the swing. This has all been helpful. The car is in for paint now and when I get it back I now have a direction to go in and I will let everyone know how I make out.

First, I do not know if the brakes where better before because I just bought the car and had it delivered to the garage. I did not want to drive the car with a single cylinder. The valve could cause a pedal to go to the floor (not like there is no pressure but you press real hard on the pedal...

No what I did was use the existing "T" in from the master cylinder and then plugged one hole and the two remaining went to the left and right front. The rear line goes to the axle and is then split with the existing block to the left and right.

No they would not drag. 75 pounds are required to activate brake shoe presure. Most master cylinders have this built in. Its a rubber boot where the master cylinder piston goes in from the brake pedal. The master cylinder I installed was a part number I was given from this site. If that is wrong...

I installed a Wagner MC71258 dual master cylinder. I believe what I need is 4 residual pressure valves to maintain 10 pounds of pressure on each wheel cylinder.

New master cylinder is because I went from single to dual. Brakes function fine other than hard pedal with a excessive travel. I think I need the valves to place the 10 pounds of back pressure on the system.

I bought the master cylinder that was recommended for my car from folks here on the site. I am not putting Disc on the front. What I read it seems as if drum/drum systems need residual pressure valves to keep back pressure on all four drums? Any one know more about this? Here is some info...

I converted my 64 Valiant from a single master cylinder to a dual. All four wheels are drum as from the factory. When I step on the pedal I have to stand on it to make the car stop. Many have said I need a drum brake proportioning valve or do I need residual pressure valves? I thought many here...

I did the same with that same Edlebrock carb and it works fine.

Years ago we would of used a shakle extender on the rear end of the leaf spring and added air shocks. That puts stress in the shock mounts and uses the shocks in a way they were not designed. If I want to raise the rear of my car about 2 inches what is the best way? Add leafs?

Thanks! With that I have ordered the parts and they are on the way. Thanks again.

I want to convert my single cylinder master brake cylinder to a dual. Which brand or who's product (model) will fit (work) the best? I have a 64 Valiant.

I've seen where to buy the center dash in new chrome as well as the gear shift selector but where can I purchase the radio trim plastic in new chrome finish?

I do not have a 4 speed I have an automatic.

I may be faced with either rebuilding my 273 in my 64 Valiant or buying a different engine. I want to keep the original factory push button transmission. My question is what is the largest engine that transmission can handle? 273 , 340 or 360 are my choices. I just do not want to go bigger if it...