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Can you hear it with the hood up, working the throttle by hand? Any idea which side of the engine it seems to be most pronounced? Do you have A/C?

Yes, if I remember correctly, that's his Valiant.

I saw this one run a few years ago at Houston Raceway Park in Baytown, Texas. It ran a 10.36 (or 10.39) and smoked a Lil' Red Wagon. I believe I remember the owner from NE runs a shop that works on engine heads.

Folks oftentimes criticize the Haynes manuals like those you find at your local parts stores. All I can say is that I never had seen the inside of an engine in person before starting a rebuild project with my son on his slanted '74 Dart Sport. After having a little machine work done (bored...

I was told that Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent (aka Rust Penetrant) is still available from Mopar. Part number 4318039 or 4318039AB. You might see if it is and if it really works. Where were all of you when I had a thread going about issues with my Carter BBD and its hard starting habits...

The choke plate is completely closed with the engine cold and the fast idle screw sitting on the high lobe of the plastic cam - good so far. Pushing the choke rod back all the way (like it would be with a warmed engine), the choke plate is fully open - like you would expect, right? Uh, oh...

That's easy enough to adjust with a little bending here and there. I need to know if the initial cold start-up requires the choke plate to be 100% closed, or should it have a pre-set gap. In other words, with the plate completely closed, the only air getting in to mix with the initial shot of...

... on a Carter BBD. I've set all the carb adjustments as best I can, according to the rebuild kit instructions and the literature Dan provided in another thread. When warmed up, the engine idles nicely and runs great at low or high speed. It's just a booger to start cold. I fully believe it is...

This is for you guys running Super Six slants with a Carter BBD 2bbl. When warmed up to normal operating temperature, what is your idle speed set to in PARK and then what does it drop to when in gear? I tried tuning the carb to 750 rpm in PARK, but once I put it in gear and turn on...

The rebuilt replacement BBD I installed was running great - for about a week. It was running good at curb idle, at part throttle stop sign to stop sign, and at highway speed. It would sit and idle all day long if I wanted it to. All I needed to do to get it finely tweaked was to set the valve...

Frank, I'm going to set the valve lash, idle mix, and freshen up a few parts before I take another reading. I was also told to move the test point somewhere else other than the #6 intake runner. I've got a port on the carb I will use for the next test. The good news is the Dartster is alive...

Man, what a difference it makes when all cylinders are firing and the carburetor is working as it should! Fixed a plug wire, installed a rebuilt (not reman) carb, did a little quick tuning, and the test drive went great. I still want to set the valve lash, check the timing, replace the...

Are you saying to center punch it before, or after, you tap the tube back in? Afterwards might distort the diameter (and the cross-sectional area) of the tube. Would it be enough to even matter? I don't know how sensitive these circuits are to change.

Well, I guess the mechanic I took the car to for a quick look knew his stuff. He said it sounded like it was missing - and it was. I checked all of the plug wires with an inline ignition tester and the number 3 wire wasn't getting fire to the plug. I replaced the crimped-on tip inside the...

I'm going to do some additional troubleshooting and I'll let you guys know what's going on. I appreciate all the suggestions - gives me more things to double-check or confirm. So far... No EGR No overheating No backfiring Not sure about unusual smell - I don't know what it normally...

Aaron came home from college over the weekend to leave his slanted '74 Dart Sport with me to diagnose and hopefully fix. He has been complaining for several weeks about how badly it has been running. I got a good dose of it this morning on my way to work. It fired right up, idled fine...

My son Aaron had some carb problems a few weeks ago while trying to get back down to college, and I'm not sure they are completely resolved. I would like to get a spare Carter BBD 2-bbl for his Super Six. Let me know if you have one proven to be good-running and could be immediately put into...

Glad you explained that. It makes perfect sense, now. I guess they decided to "improve" it for later years.

Sorry, I wasn't aware there was a hole/opening in the bottom of the choke pocket that would require sealing with a gasket. The ones I have dealt with are like your '74 version, open on the one side. Is the hole in yours a factory feature, or is it possible it just rusted through? I'm trying...

Do you have any way to post pictures of what you are talking about? I'm not sure what you mean by "thru hole" or "stamped steel cup". My son has a '74 slant six Dart Sport, and I can't figure out what these components are.

I didn't see where anyone addressed this question. The only "reduced diameter shank" bolt I am aware of on my son's '74 Dart slant six is the rear rocker shaft mounting bolt - not a head bolt. The rear rocker shaft pedestal has a small hole at the bottom for the oil passage. Oil comes up...

Bingo! Apparently, one side is "start" and the other is "run". Looks like we lost the "start" side. As long as it is such an easy fix, I won't complain.

I need to study this ballast resistor a bit to learn more about how it functions. The mounting screw goes through the center of the ceramic block, so it is completely insulated from grounding to the body. On the back, one resistor coil is embedded in ceramic, so I can't see how it is...

Hey, five hours to fix a problem by using you guys to sound off on is a blessing. Sure beats leaving the car at some shop for a few days and spending a couple of hundred dollars for them to fix it with a $8 part. At least Aaron and I learned something else about his car. Now, he knows how to...

Gentlemen, at this point, I am completely bumfuzzled. Aaron and I checked various wires for good connections, cleaned and re-seated the bulkhead connectors, checked vacuum lines, and it still would not fire. We disconnected the interlock switch, and still no go. We put the key in "run"...

Amen, brother. Certainly worth looking at.

So, you just drive it home, park it, and the next morning it won't start for love nor money? And it's all because of what? The bulkhead connector developed a little corrosion? Dang those Chrysler engineers. Every one of them should be horse-whipped with a battery cable.

Quite true... Only twice have we ever had to press the reset button, and that was to get the starter to crank the engine over. This problem is not "cranking", it's "firing".

Point taken... Yes, tearing into the column to replace the ignition switch is not a picnic. Three or four of them have provided me a lifetime of fun and excitement I could very well do without.

Yes, I'm starting to perhaps suspect the ignition switch. A couple of other "odd" situations have occurred over the past month. I'll report our findings.