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I would still check the floats. I really don't care what they tested, I only care how they are on my car. The needle and seat are also susceptible to dirt which will also flood out the float bowls.

It is very easy to check and set the float level on these.

Looks like I will be the test subject.

Specificly a 68, 340 AVS. I'm just wondering if they work as intended.

I have 4 computer fans mounted in my air cleaner. They are good for about 5 pounds of boost and 100 hp.

Looks like a good way to make $40 selling a $.40 part.

Am I the only one left that still thinks a Holley 3310 is really the only carb anyone needs?

I'm running the factory AVS on my 68. They are very easy to rebuild and work really well, in my opinion.

I should have mentioned, this is something that started this summer. It had been working fine for the 14 years I have owned it.

Great thing about being friends with the previous owner. I can tell you this is the same sender that was in it as far back as 1979.

Any recommendations on a quality replacement or will a trip to NAPA take care of it?

Fuel gauge works fine from full to half a tank. Once it reaches the half tank level it wants to drop to empty. On a refill it goes back to full and works fine again until I run about a half tank out. I have cleaned all associated connections. What's your best guess? New sender time?

I actually found and rebuilt the correct AVS for my 68 340. I'm really amazed at how good it is.

I'm really not sure. The gold on mine is paint, factory would have been plated. This carb was a big dirty, oily mess before I rebuilt it 8 years ago. I just wanted to make it look nice.

A pic of what Rusty is talking about.

Get rid of the air gap and get the non air gap performer rpm.

I'm running the factory 4424S, AVS and cast iron intake on my 68 formula s 340, 4 speed. It's a fantastic combo in my book.

I'm thinking it should fit without mods. Could you take some pics?

For what? Fuel? Hard line as much as you can for safety (and track rules). Flow variation isn't something you would ever see from one to the other unless you make sharp bends with rubber lines. Rubber lines can pinch off easy if you make sharp bends.

Everyone should have an 1850 sitting on their shelf, rebuilt and ready to go when needed.

Could also be your cap and new does not mean good.

Your cruising range will be reduced. I don't see any advantages to running it on the street at your compression level.

It's also something that doesn't need to be replaced. When you get right down to it, all it is, is a piece of metal with a hole in it.

That's beyond overkill.

That tells me it's not the new filter. You need to start looking at the rest of your fuel system.

I doubt you got a bad Wix filter.

Look here. http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=PA

Good to hear. Did it look like any of the internal gaskets were allowing fuel to pass?

You shouldn't have any fuel coming out the PCV port. That sounds like an internal leak. You may need to brake it down and toss a kit in it.

You can't check for secondary operation on a vacuum secondary Holley by winging the throttle by hand. They only open under load.