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There are a number of discussions about why you don't need the spring in the forum. But the bottom line is there is no harm to installing one if you think it might prevent a hose collapse problem. I just installed the springs in my lower radiator hose a couple of weeks ago. Might be unnecessary...

This weekend I decided to replace the radiator in my Dart. The car had the original radiator in it even after I finished my build. I ordered a replacement from Year One. Have had problems with the car gradually warming to the point of running hot. Got to where I pretty much could not take it out...

I have always run a 180 and my car seems to handle that just fine.

I kept the stock setup with the water valve. Maintained the vacuum connections so that the controls to the heater box would still work the way they are supposed to. I didn't add an extra valve and just cleaned up the hose routing. That seemed to work just fine.

All this talk about fan direction now has me wondering if mine is facing the right way. This is how mine is mounted. I believe this is correct, but maybe someone could confirm for me. Fan does turn clockwise (as I am looking at the front of the car).

Will that give me a reliable answer to my problem, you think? Someone at Carlisle recommended the same. Where would be the optimal place to check the temp with the digital gun?

I am troubleshooting a persistent (and weird) cooling issue with my Dart and I am looking for some advice. I recently replaced all of the cooling components (water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, and sender) with the exception of the radiator. Back in the winter, I replaced the wiring harnesses...

Going to work on trying to get the correct water pump. Old water pump and intake have the larger fitting. Just can’t seem to figure out where to locate the correct pump based on the unreliable info on the internet.

Water pump came from Year One. I think I may try to order the one labeled OE Replacement on Rock Auto and see if that works any better. It looks to me like the fitting in the original pump would screw into that brass fitting. Both pumps only have two openings (the pics just look decieving).

So this did not go as planned. Here is what I have as of now. The old fitting is not coming out of the old water pump. I bought new stainless fittings (like the ones on Year One), and the new fitting will screw into that bypass hose hole just as that big brass adapter will. But the new fitting...

Yeah, I think I found what I was looking for. Thanks.

I finally decided to replace my leaky water pump on my Dart. I went ahead and ordered new hoses, themostat, and fan clutch to replace at the same time. I assume that installing the water pump with the supplied gasket should not be an issue. However, I do have one question. Should I use any kind...

I have gotten tired of my water pump dripping all over everything, so I have finally decided to replace it. I have everything apart and ordered some new hoses and clamps and thermostat. While I was able to get the smaller heater hose fitting out of the top of the water pump, I cannot get the...

The power steering belt on my car is a Gates 9415.

This is exactly what I did with my 69 Dart. It was much easier to just bolt the original AC/Heater box back in the car. I just capped off the AC vents under the dash and removed all the components that come through into the engine bay. Heater portion still works using factory control setup.

I repaired the inside and outside of my heater box with JB Weld. That has held up great. I believe I used a large washer to distribute the pressure from the J hook on the bottom. I also used a couple of washers to reinforce where the heater box attaches to that part of the box.

You guys are two years late to the party, but funny nonetheless.

I repaired my heater box out of my Dart with JB Weld. Once it set up that was the most sturdy part of the box. You can't really go wrong with the JB Weld.

Well it's only money, so I ordered one of the Billet Specialties thermostat housings with O-ring. Majority opinion seems to think the O-ring style is the best way to go, so maybe I will give that a try and see what happens.

Well that's disappointing to hear. I guess if it leaks at least I have gotten good at preventing a big coolant mess since I have taken this damn thing apart so many times.

So I went ahead and bought the Mopar chrome housing from Jegs. You guys convinced me the one I have looks too "used." So should I scuff the bottom of the new housing and just use the FelPro gasket I have or also use RTV?

Should an O-ring seat into the groove that the thermostat sits in?

Well since I was taking it apart anyway, I figured I would snap a couple of pics of the thermostat housing. Note in the second picture that the recess in the underside of the housing is bigger than the diameter of the thermostat. Any additional thoughts based on these pics?

I am getting really frustrated, so I figured I would search out the A body wizards to help me solve this problem. I cannot get my thermostat housing to stop leaking. It is weeping quite a bit around the seam where it joins the intake. I have tried two different types of gaskets, two gaskets...

I think (and I am no expert) without stopping the flow through the heater core, you will always have the box circulating heat. You may be able to come up with a way to close the outlets/vents, but the vacuum activated valve that controls water flow under the hood is also tied to the vacuum...

I assume it will work. I have seen quite a few heater/AC boxes on here that have been stripped of their AC components. I removed all of the AC components from my car, sealed the AC vent off of the box, and screwed a plate into the firewall to cover the AC line holes. I think you just have to...

I used Detroit Muscle Technologies heater box restore kit for my Dart and it worked great. And the kit was surprisingly cheap.

I removed the AC on my 69 Dart because I didn't want all that stuff covering up so much of the engine after prettying it all up under the hood. And I wanted to be able to show off Leanna's work from Phoenix Specialty Coatings.

Did you do anything to repair the holes on the box where the hinge broke off?

I need some advice on the best way to repair my heater box. While opening the little fresh air door that mounts on the box, the rivets (or whatever they are) broke through the side of the box ripping the fresh air door off. I should have made sure that the old door hinge was freed up better...