Search results for query: *

I think my engine and front end wiring harness came from Evans when I redid it a few years ago. Have you tried contacting them directly? Evans Wiring Harnesses

I completely replaced the wiring harnesses in my 69 GT two winters ago with the stock set up. I bought my dash harness from Year One. It worked great and everything was organized where it should be. The only tricky part was any add-ons, like for a heater box. My engine bay harness came from...

Detroit Muscle. Probably Year One as well. I have bought some of these on more than one occasion. They are not too difficult to find.

All of the wires appear to be connected right on the alternator. This loose wire seems to be coming off the coil and following that larger harness that goes to the alternator. Seems strange to have no other obvious place to connect. The oil sender might make sense if I figure out where that is...

Just posted about this 66 Valiant project. Car has the 225 in it. Car will turn over but doesn't fire. While checking it over, we came across this loose wire. It appears to be the wire off of the coil (see the yellow arrow) since it is rolled in that harness down the side of the head, but I have...

I use something like these on my car. The sleeves essentially rest on the drivers side manifold. I have not had any problems with burning of my plug wires with these installed. You can also kind of see them in this picture. Moroso 71994: High-Temperature Boot Sleeves Black | JEGS

If the listing only has for 72, then there must be some difference however small. When I put a new engine bay harness, I went with Evans Wiring. I called them and told them what I had in my car, what I was looking for, and they told me exactly what I needed. I think they were generally cheaper...

The bulkhead comes prepared to clip into the firewall. To tell you the truth, I believe I ordered the gasket simply because I wasn't sure if it would come with the wiring harness. It's only a few bucks extra, so there is no harm in purchasing it. Everything was spot on. One other issue I had was...

Domdart beat me to it. The IVR behind the dash is probably bad.

I purchased a Year One harness for my underdash, and I have only one complaint--the fuse box was not threaded to mount up under the dash. Other than that, the harness went in perfect and the connectors were exactly positioned where they need to be. I used an Evans harness for my engine bay, and...

The wire that looks pink with the female end looks just like the wire and connector that goes to one of the two connections above the emergency brake handle (see my pic). That broken wire that looks orange looks like either fuse box, the steering column connector, or the plug to the left...

I just replaced the entire dash harness in my 69 Dart last spring using the Year One harness and it actually went in great. The only catch was I had to buy a couple of the accessory harnesses as well (like heater). I also replaced the underhood and forward light harnesses, but I used Evans...

I had this problem with my Dart and it turned out that it was burning up the fuse repeatedly. But the source of that problem was actually a bad connection on the back of the fuse box (as was referenced above).

But does it run though?

When the IVR failed in my car it burned up both gauges. I originally pulled the cluster out to replace all that and then ended up with a faulty "new" IVR, but I had already buttoned the dash back up. So I squeezed my hand under from the bottom. The headlamp was a big help.

You can get to it from under the dash without removing the cluster, but it is not easy. I just swapped a failed one out without taking the dash apart. I unplugged all the wiring connectors in the way and pulled them to the side. I used a headlamp so I could see up in the back of the dash. The...

I just did the same total dash and engine harness replacement myself this winter. It was quite a PIA but it was also satisfying doing it myself (and then having the car not burn down after).

I ordered a factory correct underdash harness for my Dart from Year One. My new engine and forward light harness came from Evans. I was pleased with the construction of both. Both went together very well and I have no issues with either up to this point.

I usually go to Rock Auto to look up the specific part numbers as a reference.

Interesting point about crusty old gauges. Maybe the new gauges just read correct. I know the car wasn’t running hot, so I will give it a go with these gauges and see what happens. I will say the new IVR did seem a little flimsier than the older version.

So I installed the IVR recommended by Classic Industries. I tried it without the suppressor plugged in and the gauges did not work at all. So I plugged the suppressor back in with the new IVR and they seemed to work. Now the only thing that has me stumped is the temp gauge seems to read hotter...

I was not aware of that, but it is easy enough to test that theory out. Thanks.

You are right. I checked Classic's website this morning and went ahead and bought one of the IVR's they recommend with the gauges I bought. Guess we will see what happens. Thanks.

I replaced the gauges with whatever is supposed to be a direct replacement for the OE. I think I bought them from Classic Industries, but I can't recall for certain. My cluster also has that little capacitor with a single spade terminal on it. It is plugged into one of the sockets that the IVR...

Yeah, both gauges are bouncing in rhythm. But there is no other modulation through the dash, lights or ammeter.

i finally got the new dash and engine harness installed in my car. The car started up fine and the modulation that I was having at the ammeter and in the electrics in the car are gone. But I have another problem that has me at a loss. I replaced the fuel and temp gauges that were both burned up...

Okay, so I think I figured out where the two blue wires go. Going back some old pictures, I noticed there is a relay on top of the AC box that looks like the old blue wires were plugged in. Since I eliminated the AC from my car (even though I still have the AC box), I guess it didn't occur to me...

So the saga of my wiring harness swap continues. I finally got the bulk of the new dash harness in. I also had to order a new AC/heater harness for under the dash. I have most everything connected and ran the two wires for the AC/heater harness into the bulkhead, but I am left with the two...

Good to know. Think I will just eliminate the buzzer relay and all the extra bundled wiring under the dash. That will eliminate a little bit of clutter and save me the hassle of doing a little extra wiring on the fuse box. Thanks.

Understand your point here. I guess the question is can I just eliminate the A01 option? I don't want to really strip out the accessory harness because it is old and brittle and not adding it back removes some of the excess wire clutter. Plus if I add it onto the new harness I have to fool with...