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Appreciate the comments. Only tool "recommendation" I see is for a Motiv bleeder. I have a glass jar and rubber hose for the occasion. That's usually how I have bled the brakes using the two person method (not ever my wife).

I installed the disc brake conversion on my 69 Dart last summer. My dad and I bled the brakes and had no issues at that time. I bench bled the MC as per the instructions. I subsequently found a leak at the bleeder valve last fall that was causing me to lose pedal. I fixed all of that and re-bled...

Gotcha on all points. I understand that Dr. Diff has quality parts. I was just sharing that I have no real concerns with what I got from Pirate Jack. Outside of my saga with the UCA's (that actually came from PST), my only other gripe was the brake lines because I installed the calipers...

Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with pre-bent lines. It just seems much easier to me than trying to get your bends and flares right. I would at least recommend checking out Inline Tubes. I think they sell all of the individual pre-bent lines. I put those on my 69 Dart and have no...

I installed the Pirate Jack kit on my 69 Dart last summer. I generally have no real complaints about them. I will admit I was not a fan of the crush sleeves that they use to mate the stock upper ball joints to the larger spindles. I eventually broke down and made other changes (new UCA's with...

I think you can get the lines through Inline Tube or Dr. Diff. I would recommend a proper proportioning valve if you are switching from drums to discs. I just made this conversion and ordered what I needed, including the valve, from Dr. Diff.

Can't speak for MBM specifically, but I did recently deal with Pirate Jack (one of their vendors) for the disc brake conversion on my Dart. They were pretty responsive when I contacted them a few times.

I recently had an issue like this with my stainless brake line leaking on my new proportioning valve. Took the entire rear brake line off the car. Turned out the flare got a burr on it somehow and it would just not seal in the new valve. Lightly sanded on it with a file and that solved the...

Also, looking at Dfr360cuda's set up with the stock UCAs, you can see the top of the spindle is rotated pretty far forward of the centerline as well. That leads me to believe that even with these "fancy" tubular UCAs, the basics of the set up/geometry are going to look the same before adjusting...

Interesting point that I had not considered. But the part number reflected on my order and in the packing slip is correct for my car. Not to say they couldn't have messed it up, but they look exactly like what PST advertises on their site for the A-bodies.

Yeah, I ran through that question in another thread. This is what they looked like swapped out to opposite sides from the way they are mounted. Clearly not correct.

Completely understand. I had a different MC. Spilled the fluid out all over the MC trying to bench bleed it and the paint peeled off while I was sitting there. I covered just about everything in the engine bay with a blanket while I was working on this to keep the fluid off my parts. It was a...

The last set of picks are how the car sits after about 40 miles of driving. There is absolutely no rubbing on either wheel. But I should mention that the upper part of my fender lips are rolled in a little. But otherwise at a full lock turn either direction there is no rubbing and even when the...

I am running the DOT3 fluid. I painted the MC with Eastwoods Brake Gray paint because it is supposed to resist the eating up of paint by the brake fluid. I have always run DOT3 from the beginning of my build and never had a leak (knock on wood).

Feel free to shoot me any questions.

And here’s the stance currently after tweaking on the adjustments. Of note: both the front and rears of the UCA mounts are adjusted most all the way in to get the camber adjustment where it is now. It can probably be improved a little but the drive and handling feels excellent as it sits.

One of the hardest parts of this project was replacing the distribution block with the right proportioning valve. The kits mostly come with an adjustable valve for the rear wheels. That requires modification to the rear brake lines that I was unwilling to do. So I ordered the correct...

After my screw up with the adaptor sleeves, I broke down and spent the money for the PST tubular UCAs. Installation was not that difficult but a rubber mallet was essential to getting them into place. Also, I had to shave off the lip of the frame tab on both sides to give the tubular arms room...

Well I finally got my disc brake conversion done on my 69 Dodge Dart GT. Thought I would share some pictures and observations of my project. I purchased the Pirate Jack manual disc brake kit. All things considered, I thought it was very reasonably priced. It was not missing any parts and I...

I’m almost done installing the parts on my 69 Dart GT for the front disc brake swap. This is the kit that uses 73+ parts and the single piston floating calipers. However, I am stuck because I am not completely clear how these calipers go together. The instructions recommend bending the tabs to...

Gotcha. Just offering my thought based on the post. I am aware that Pirate Jack is the MBM set up with redrilled LBP rotors for SBP. I am already running 15” America Racing wheels so clearance was not a concern for me. As a side note, I also chose to replace my UCAs instead of using the crush...

I just went with the Pirate Jack disc brake conversion that allows for SBP and I have no real complaints. The price was right as well.

Would definitely like to check it out. How difficult was the conversion and where did you source the parts from? I honestly haven’t investigated that possibility with my Dart at this point, but it does occasionally cross my mind.

Agree and understand. I won’t buy anything before pulling it apart because it is easy enough to do. I just wanted to get some thoughts since it seemed to be all over the map when I searched FABO. If I get a wild hair it might end up with disk brakes on the front.

I thought this could be an issue. But when the brake is disassembled and there is only the hub assembly it seems to spin freely.

The rear brakes don’t seem to be a problem. Have not noticed any sticking or unexplained noises from the rear. The issue is definitely in the front passenger side.

So the drums that Year One sells would essentially be the incorrect size? Where would you recommend buying the brake parts from to get the correct sizes? I note the recommendation in the next post but I have seen opinions vary on the person.

Right. I have a 69 service manual for my car. That is why I am asking for clarity. It seems to suggest that the drums are 10 x 2 1/2 for all V8 models. I was just curious if that was correct. When I looked on Year One, all I found were 10 x 2 1/4 drums but 2 1/2 and 2 1/4 shoes.

Appreciate the insight. I will take a look at them when I pull them down. In the meantime, I still have the question about the sizes for drums and shoes

I have to admit, I have not inspected them closely. Each time I have had an issue with sticking, I have just pulled the wheel and adjusted them. To be honest, I believe the drums are the original drums on the car. I imagine the shoes were replaced at one time. I guess I was just fed up with...