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I bought the Dr Diff u joint lately. I don't remember what brand they supplied. Here were their specs: Hard to find combination U-joint mates a small 7260 Mopar driveshaft to a large 7290 Mopar yoke. PLEASE CHECK THESE DIMENSIONS TO MAKE SURE THIS IS THE PART YOU NEED! 7260 U-joint...

I just installed one. The car is on a lift. I lifted it up and slid it in. There was a moment of panic when it didn't go on the studs and slide right in. The pig hasn't gotten any lighter since I last did one and I'm 20 years older now. One forgets.

Its a slippery slope but for $1000 probably worth it. You'll have to change brakes, parking brake, brake lines, weld perches, modify/new driveshaft, etc. Also, the pinion offset will be different so there is that to consider.

Well now I know what happened

I too just used a free angle finder app on my iphone. It worked well. Its the angles of the components relative to each other that matters. My $ 0.02 and I don't mean to start a fight :)

The only real way to know what the backlash is requires removing the pumpkin. As has been said it doesn't matter if you are changing gears obviously. I have no idea if adjusting backlash is a good idea if the gears are worn.

The guy that rebuilt my A833 and also does diffs said the same thing basically.....pinion wasn't the typical failure point. I grew up believing 489 was the best but I'll run my 741 without fear on the street :) I broke a 742 years ago doing a clutch drop. The old worn spider gears gave out.

Serious mansplaining there. I think we know that lol Me too or just find an A housing

Isn't that diff 3 inches wider than an A body diff?

I'm having flashbacks to when I set up my Dana 60 that I bought bare. I think I had the center section in and out a dozen times. Its just trial and error in the end. At least the 8 3/4 is easier.

Everything is more expensive these days as I am finding out on the latest project. Driveline shops are just cutting down standard lengths of tube so every drive shaft is made to order. I doubt a tapered tube is available from the regular driveline shops but who knows.

No it was just cruddy and I didn't notice it . Its a project car that is fairly new to me.

I got enough body work on this car without having to do the diff housing

I blasted the diff and this is what I see. Ring gear failure? It turns fine so perhaps its old damage. I guess I better pull the center section.

Here is a pic. Perhaps that bolt is the pivot? It looks like whatever it was holding on was cut.

I'll look at the bell housing but I don't believe there is a pivot there....at least I didn't have to disconnect one. Does the factory drawing show one?

It wasn't connected at the reverse lever so the PO may have done that. I'll check it out before I reassemble the car.

Its all apart and in a box somewhere now as the car is stripped for restoration. The linkage bolts to the frame rail. I'll probably not reinstall it but keep it in case the next owner has to have it.

He sold me the Motive gears so I dunno about that. If I buy another set I will go with a well known brand and not the low cost offshore stuff (although I suspect its all made offshore now and you get what you pay for)

Not sure if the SVL is made by Motive but my Motive Dana gears were noisy. Its a common complaint.

Did you have the driveshaft checked and balanced? New u joints?

I think its all there except from where it connects to the reverse shifter rod...if that is how it works. I'll probably disable or perhaps remove the whole mechanism.

As I stated in the original post the build sheet says it is.

Reverse lockout linkage makes sense....didn't know there was such a thing. I learned something new today. I don't believe that there is a finger switch at the key.

This is a bit of a head scratcher....perhaps I am going senile. While inspecting my new 4 speed '70 Swinger project and wondering what I have to remove to drop the engine and suspension out the bottom I see what appears to be column shift auto linkage in addition to the 4 speed z bar. Its...

Around here it was easy to find someone with jigs who can cut down a Ford 9" but not a Dana 60. Its just something to consider.

You are talking about the kickdown mechanism. There is a procedure for adjusting it which I believe calls for the kickdown lever on the tranny to be at the full range of motion (can't remember which direction it goes) with the throttle wide open. This is not a shift adjustment point. All...

Danas were fitted with various ratios, diffs and axle spline counts but that shouldn't matter to you if it's empty now. My Dana has a 1350 joint which I believe is std. As mentioned, the number on the housing indicates the bill of material and can be referenced to the part numbers although...

I'm with you on this one. Are you sure it is an 8 3/4? You shouldn't see any bolts from the back.

I paid around $250. The important thing is the shop has the bushings and shaft (jig) to ensure the ends are concentric with the bearing bores before they weld the end housings on. It seemed everyone had the jig for a Ford 9" but the Dana 60 was harder to find. I expect the 8 3/4 is different...