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Bought a brand new 70 Duster 340, 4 spd. Fresh from the deal, ran thru gears, shift at 6000 rpm. Drove it like that for 4 years before having to trade it cause couldn't get hi octane gas. Hated to let it go.

An air dam under front end will reduce drag and make more stable. See thread Awesome A-body air dam for under $30!

When it was on dyno, did they record air/fuel ratio. If so, that will give idea about carb tuning and jetting. A good start on tuning is to do compression test to see if any major concerns with rings or valves. Then check and/or set timing to about 15 deg initial and 34 deg total. See how...

That is good 60 ft time especially for foot brake and that convertor. I don't think you need to change the tire size for leaving line. What is your rpm at finish line. You won't need bigger tire unless you redline at top end.

Well I'm back. I started this thread and ran at the track then had to leave for 2 weeks. I started at 18psi and spun for 30 ft but only did short burnout. Lowered thru day to 16 as ambient heated up. I did longer burnouts and that seemed to help. It still spun for about 30 ft but at least...

Thanks for suggestions and recom for M/t web site. I checked site and for ET street radial the recom was for 14-18 psi. So I'll start at 18. Thanks

I got my new M/T 275/50R15 radial drag slicks mounted on Duster and am heading for the strip. What is a good air pressure to start time trials? It has 408 small block and 727 trans w 3500 stall.

With the high compression to get the benefit of the E85 high octane rating, I think you could go even higher CR. I don't know for sure on a street engine, but maybe 14 to 1. Consider a MSD dizzy with a retard feature to ease starting.