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As I suspected and you guys confirmed, it is a cone type. It seemed from the picture the case bolts went in from the ring gear side but I wasn't sure. It's claimed to be out of a 1972 Imperial, 3.23 ratio. it appears from all my reading here and elsewhere that the case dating method is not...

Cone type or clutch? Thinking cone....... Anything here that is a date code? Thanks........

If the car has power brakes, block off the vacuum line to the brake booster and see if your shake goes away. If that fixes the shake, probably a bad booster diaphram causing a vacuum leak. This will show up in gear at idle due to very lean mixture to one cylinder causing a skip. No load on...

Sheeesh you didn't think I was serious did you? :rolleyes:

NO Problem. There's a recipe to fix that. Just get some nice dry sawdust, soak it in 140 weight over night, stuff the pig full, put the plug in and you're good to go. :thumbsup: No **** I did that once with my model A

I'm sensing you still don't know how the adjustment works. The adjuster has nothing to do with how far the bearing pushes on the axle. The adjuster controls the end play of both axles, which both contact a block in the differential. The adjuster moves the bearing cup on the passenger side (which...

I miss read your first post and thought you were working on the left side. I see by the picture that you are working on the right side with the adjustable retainer. This is the side that will adjust the axle shaft end play when you are all done. Those two shiny rings inside of the bearing is...

Once the retainer nuts are off (as I see you have done) the axle does take a good tug to get it out and the suggestion above re: using the brake drum backwards is a good one. You need to understand these wheel bearings are NOT lubricated by differential fluid. The bearings are packed with wheel...

You need to download the 1971 Plymouth factory Service Manual from here: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1971_Plymouth_Chassis_Service_Manual.zip Then read section regarding rear axle service. Plenty of folks here will answer your questions once you understand the basics. Not a...

Googled and came up with these bits of info: Decoded the stamp on the transmission PK 4431552 9988 8395: PK = Kokomo Plant 4431552 = Chrysler part number for a 727 transmission. 9988 = production date 12/11/88 8395 = sequence number. Further searching indicated the part number...

Oh man, I gotz a worsun headach then afta a 6 pack 'fore brekfust!

Hey Doug, Thanks for the quick comeback. I appreciate all the info you provided and I just hit the GO button on eBay........

Anyone use this vendors rebuild kits for a 727? Good price, includes all bushings and both bands which most don't. They have a store on eBay as well as their own website. Very good reviews and use name brand parts in their kits. Here is the kit I'm looking at: Mopar Torqueflite 8 / 727...

The part # 3681841 identifies it as a 1974..... 198/225......904..........standard(w/aluminum carrier) tranny. "Standard" just IDs it as not export, police, taxi, truck or high performance.

Great and by the way, I see the right carrier bearing adjuster lock has been removed. Don't mess with that adjustment unless you know what you are doing. :-)

Count the number of teeth on the ring gear and then divide that number by the number of teeth on the pinion gear.....

This is the one I bought for my '72 Demon 340 w/727. Mopar 1970-1974 Cuda Challenger 1968-1976 A & B-Body 62" Speedometer NEW Cable | eBay

I always get twangs and tangs mixed up. Please enlighten me before I try to engage the wrong one!

Here is what you need. It clamps behind the bearing, then brace it as shown on your press and push the axle down and out. I usually heat the retainer ring some to help expand and break bond with axle. Can probably rent tool from a good auto parts store. There is the bull moose way with chisel...