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Guy was trying to tell me it is somehow wired to the alternator....... and then he lost me.

Has anyone heard of a GPS tach ?? .. not speedo, tach.

Car would start drive a mile and shut down. Wait 15,20 minutes and it would start again, another mile shut down. Turn over start and when I released the key it died until it cooled down for 20 minutes. Always, always, carry a spare.

thanks .. the speedo is the only thing working.. I'm just a little thick on the ohm checking thing.. I'll follow the steps laid out...thanks 67

How do you check gauge function.. I have a '68 Charger I'm taking the dash out to redo the faces, and need to see if the gauges work. Right now none of them register anything.

I have the '68 manual, but it doesn't tell me what the problem is. It has to be the switch, I'm pulling the gauges out soon to rebuild them anyway. I can check the switch then. Taking it for inspection tomorrow and wanted to get them working, but I think the guy will pass it anyway.

New car, don't know if they have ever worked, turn signals, all parking lights work. Brake lights were not working so I put in a brake light switch today and brake lights now work, but still no 4 ways.. No led lights. Connector I'm talking about that is always hot is the one that the hazard...

1968 Charger ..

Don't work. I have constant power at the connector, don't know if I should. Not the flasher as I have three that work. Should I have constant power at the connector ?.......You think it's the switch ?? Any way to check. Novita Hazard Warning Flasher EL12

Check voltage regulator ..sounds crazy, but I've seen it.

Steve call me

Like to use an aftermarket fuel gauge. Would I have to change the sending unit also. Anyone use a gauge that would work with the factory unit.

Thank You pt, that is the information I've been looking for > #29

Yep thanks

thanks

The ammeter reads discharge or to the negative side, yet the battery is fine and has not gone dead. I don't understand your terms. If I connect the wires as I said will that work. My Dart had a loose connection at the ammeter a month ago and the car died on my way home, going up a bridge...

So by the first photo, if I run a wire from the relay ( thru a fuseable link) tie it to both of the ammeter wires, I eliminate the ammeter and my bulkhead problem ?? ... I plan on taking the cluster out this winter and redo all the gauges in the dash of this '68 Charger, and put a picture of...

I'm taking it that the wire you need to change is from the relay directly to the ammeter, and eliminate that wire from the bulkhead, using a fuseable link in the circuit. To eliminate the ammeter do you join the three wires ( two ammeter and the new hot wire ?). Or am I starting a fire.

Where can I get the center connector to replace this.. I have a battery cutoff connected to battery.. and I use it, but want to fix this even though I don't look forward to screwing with this.. ESPECIALLY if I need to go under dash..

Alternator ...I'm betting it's at the bulkhead ..I need to get a picture of it.

ammeter never goes to charge side .. at the bulkhead the fuseable link wire from the starter relay looks pretty shabby and slightly melted at the bulkhead. Is that the one that eventually leads to the meter.

My volt meter and ammeter disagree. My volt meter reads about 14 V with a little accelerator. My ammeter reads slight discharge always a little more with lights or any electrical device on. Whats up, and please dumb it down. I know the difference between amps and volts, just don't understand why...

Found that it was a loose connection at the ammeter. The one wire was a bit crispy because of the loose connection. I taped it up just to get it running and I'll have to take it in to get the wire replaced. I can barely get under there to "semi" repair the wire and tighten it. I'll leave the...

Just found my similar problem, with a lot of help ... Ammeter !

Thanks. I just want to eliminate this POS. I'll check if I can put the two on one terminal. I have a volt meter and that's good enough.

AMMETER .. F!@#$%^ ammeter.. the connection, when I move it power goes on and off. Can I just eliminate the f@#$%(( thing. Do I just put the two wires together ?? or am I going to burn this sucker down by doing that. Can I do this splice under the hood.

I'll go over the wiring from the diagram and double check wires and connections. Grounded to frame. What a week, my other car had a pickup/ECU problem that drove me (and others) crazy, now this BS.

Twice this week my dart went dead completely. Went to the garage to take it out and nothing. No lights, horn, four ways. I removed the battery ground strap at the engine and filed off some paint and hit the cable end. Checked battery connections and they were fine. Today I walk in the...

Yeah, now I have and extra one in my stash and I got to return one which surprised me they usually don't take back electronic items.

Yeah, the gap was correct because I checked it several times, along with everything else, ....AND it ran with the new pickup and old ECU.. I am at a loss as to what the hell happened. Thank you for the help !