DEAD completely

[44070dart]

Twice this week my dart went dead completely. Went to the garage to take it out and nothing. No lights, horn, four ways. I removed the battery ground strap at the engine and filed off some paint and hit the cable end. Checked battery connections and they were fine.

Today I walk in the garage and my four ways are blinking, I must have left them on last night when I had nothing and somehow it regained power. I checked the bulkhead connector and shook it, and pulled on it today while I had the four ways on and they continued to work. All the wiring is new, the bulkhead connectors were also replaced last year. Is the bulk head connector the only thing that could kill everything. I now know the ground to the engine is fine, so that eliminates that.

 

[69conv]

It takes almost no corrosion on the battery cables to cut power, I'd try cleaning and reinstall first.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Do you have ground from block to chassis?

 

[65wgn440]

Might want to take a look at fusible links/ connectors on power feed line to/from starter relay ??

 

[Mattax]

First. Put your battery on a slow charger since it got run down blinking.

Is the bulk head connector the only thing that could kill everything.

No. Any bad connection or wire in the battery feed line up to and including the main splice could.

Check the ground, check the battery feed - schematicly shown above.
New does not always equal good.
sorry to say but true more often than we'ld like.

Crimps are sometimes poor.
Terminals sometimes back out of their connectors.

 

[44070dart]

I'll go over the wiring from the diagram and double check wires and connections. Grounded to frame. What a week, my other car had a pickup/ECU problem that drove me (and others) crazy, now this BS.

 

[44070dart]

AMMETER .. F!@#$%^ ammeter.. the connection, when I move it power goes on and off. Can I just eliminate the f@#$%(( thing. Do I just put the two wires together ?? or am I going to burn this sucker down by doing that. Can I do this splice under the hood.

 

[Mattax]

ammeter.. the connection, when I move it power goes on and off.

Disconnect the battery!

Can I do this splice under the hood.

Lost me here. The ammeter connections are in the back of the dash.

Can I just eliminate the f@#$%(( thing. Do I just put the two wires together ?

Yes and no.
Disconnect the battery and see what is loose.
If its one of the ring terminals, then replace the terminal.
If its the stud on the back of the ammeter, then yes just move that over to the good stud and gently snug the nut up so the two wires are connected.
If your talking about something under the hood, then no. All of the connections under the hood are essential.

 

[n.y.340 dart]

Mad bypass

 

[Mattax]

If its the ammeter stud(s), when you have time and patience you can look at why its loose and decide what to do about it.
It could be simple like needing a new insulation washer,
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/ammeter-heating-up.343374/#post-1971170393
Or something more difficult depending the the construction, which varies so not going to guess.
Dodge trucks were plastic housing, one guy rebuilt his like this.
Bullet-Proof Your Ammeter (A 'How To') - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
If it there are signs of melting - then it got too hot, probably from too much current, and that's not a good thing.

Another option is to use a voltmeter. It won't show whether the battery is charging, but will give you a pretty good idea of whether the alternator and regulator are working.,
One of those that plug into the cigerette lighter can get you by if assuming your car has a working lighter.

 

[Mattax]

Mad bypass

Of all the ways to do it, that's not a good one.

 

[44070dart]

Thanks. I just want to eliminate this POS. I'll check if I can put the two on one terminal. I have a volt meter and that's good enough.

 

[n.y.340 dart]

Mattax, that’s your thinking and I respect that. At lease my car won’t burn to the ground!

 

[44070dart]

Found that it was a loose connection at the ammeter. The one wire was a bit crispy because of the loose connection. I taped it up just to get it running and I'll have to take it in to get the wire replaced. I can barely get under there to "semi" repair the wire and tighten it. I'll leave the battery disconnected until I get it into the shop.