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If you are still looking check Old Air Products out of Fort Worth, TX

If it sits into the machined area and does not fall into the opening it is the correct one. All the 1960s-1980s used the same stat. Maybe you've got the wrong thermostat (water outlet) housing???

Rock Auto Parts or any auto store that carries Four Seasons brand #35504. Any NAPA store can cross the Four Seasons number to their brand. Rock Auto price is about $31 plus shipping.

If you look at the "H" on the gauge as a goalpost and the needle stays between the uprights you are okay. The radiator pressure cap raises the boiling point to about 240 degrees.

If you can find a new one get it. When you put pressure inside the core it may very well open a seam and start to leak. Just my thoughts.

210-215 degrees isn't bad, worry about it if you get up 230 or higher.

One clutch coil fits both single and double groove pulley.

If you have a fan shroud the fan blade should be half in the shroud and half out.

The make, model and year would help.

If the evaporator is leaking you will never find a replacement. All aftermarket companies obsoleted it years ago.

One RV compressor fits all Mopar bodies and engines. A Bodies are the only Mopars that do not have a EPR valve in the compressor, they use a thermostatic switch to prevent evaporator freeze ups.

The factory AC "A" bodies did not have an EPR valve, they used a thermostatic switch to cycle the clutch and prevent evaporator freeze ups.

Start worrying about the temp when it gets above 235-240 degree, Now you are fine

FIY...Before I retired I worked for a major AC remanufacture of compressors and my 1994 Duster was one of the companies "test mules" . One of our tests was to install a reman compressor on the Duster (134A system) using mineral oil, not the OEM PAG oil. Since the mineral oil would not mix with...

You can not do away with the resistor, it is what gives you the low and medium speeds on blower motor. It needs to stay where it is so that the air flow from heater/AC operation will keep it cool. Removing it from the air flow would cause it to over heat and maybe start a fire.

You had a radiator. fan and shroud combo that engine temp below 180 degree and changed to set that overheats....why? Put it back the way it was.

If you add R12 through the service port on the compressor cylinder head make to add it as a gas only, inverting the can will cause the R12 to go in as a liquid and compressors don't like compressing liquids. In the case of the RV Compressor you damage the reed valves which results in little of...

Generally when charging you can watch the sight glass on the drier, when it clears up you should have the proper amount of refrigerant in the system.

R134a works fine. Conversions turned out to be a fairly simple thing and replacing all seals and O-rings is not necessary. If you have an older system with the RV2 compressor you will have to remove the EPR valve from the suction port of the compressor, if it has one and convert it to a cycling...

Any auto parts store should be able get what you need...all you need to know is NPT size and hose size, straight, 45 or 90 degree.

All temps sound normal,,,maybe adding a coolant recovery system will prevent any coolant losses.

That is the thermostatic switch for the AC ...if no there are no wires attached the AC will not work. Attach the blue wires and if the AC clutch engages everything is right.

You probably will not find the necessary parts to rebuild it. Four Seasons, Divison of Standard Motor Products, Lewisville, Texas can rebuild it for you. They had a "send it to them and they will rebuild and return it to you. They have a Web site where you can get the contact us information.

Having what appears to be :stacked Heater core and evaporator cotr youwill neee a heater control to stop hot water from being in the heater when AC is desired.

I say move the trans cooler....a small condensor behind the bumper isn't going to do the job.

Not bad for a 39 year old system Air 20 plus grees colder the ambient.

Use thermal only. If your fan blade is larger than 18" and the blade pitch is greater then 2-3/4" then you may need a HD model clutch. From the factory all Darts came with a standard thermal clutch. Darts just don't have clutch to radiator clearance for the HD type clutch. No American made...

Go to NAPA Auto Parts # BK6551056. It is from Balkamp and it may be a special order item...the store will let you know.

That would be a "RV2" compressor. If all you need is a seal kit and valve plates, any NAPA auto parts store can get them for you. Four Seasons I believe has a "rebuild and return" plan in place. They are headquartered in Lewisville, TX ( just north of Dallas) and the remanufacturing plant is in...

Sound like a bad check valve.