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I'm thinking the overflow bottle isn't vented.

Nothing to special just don't get cheapie's

I went with a universal mount radiator that was a bit wider by far. My newer rad fits between the frame rails after notching and boxing the pass side by about an inch, and widening the opening. My pump is a pass side outlet. I paid $150 for the rad and it's a two row with 1inch tubes. Works...

the only thing special that I've seen on some heater cores is a insert that goes in the out port to slow the coolant down to actually get some heat out of the core

While taking my car out for a local short little drive I blew out a cylinder head freezeplug. Whoops. I'm guessing that between old freezeplug and not having the thermostat opening just yet when I checked the condition of the floor under the go pedal caused the pressure spike and popped it...

The chrome ones leak because the sealant has nothing to grip onto and squeezes out. If you lay a piece of sandpaper flat on the floor and slide the housing over it to put some scratches it will give it some tooth to hold onto. And make sure you use a gasket.

Water Wetter works great! Also keeps the corrosion down.

I picked up mine from E-Bag about two years ago for $180 shipped. Copper and brass cool better but can't have the bigger tubes like the aluminum ones. They can only be 1/2" tubes whereas the aluminum can have 1", as the aluminum is stronger than the copper tube in this application.

Buy it once, save your money on the cracked rad and just buy a real nice rad. This way you don't forget about the one you have now once you put in the 340 and possibly damage it. It's easier to get a car to warm up than to cool down. If you don't care about original style get the largest...

If it's made of copper or brass you can silver solder it. The silver solder is for higher pressure, that's what they use in refrigeration.

Talk to your local parts guy and see if you can look at all the premolded hoses they have. I'm sure that you will find one that will suit your needs. You might just have to cut it down to what you need.

In my opinion yes it should be vented. It is an older design system. Originally designed for a 0 pressure venting system. It should have a tube or be plumbed into the bottom to return the fluid when it cools. The newer systems run a expansion tank system to keep it all under pressure.

Now when you pull it off make sure you check it real good for stress fractures. And keep an eye on it for a while after running it a bit as they might appear. Look real good.

I'd go with the max flow unit. Just to go on the safe side. It's designed to cool an A/C car. I think it would be worth the very small powerloss. Plus the will run a little warmer than a standard motor anyway.

I also have one of those radiators. I can't remember what size I have offhand but I went for the biggest I could fit between frame rails. I did also cut the opening to get the most air in also. Not a great thing if you want to retain the factory sheetmetal but that was not a worry after...

I bought mine through Napa Auto parts. As my old vents were made from beer cans taped together with the inside of the ends cut-off. After the car would warm up it'd smell like stale beer. Not good if you got pulled over.

It's not to hard just remove the nuts on the back of the blower motor in the engine compartment, and heater hoses. And loosen the long J bolts from the bottom of the fresh air vent. And it will be loose. Lower it down and remove the cables and wire.

Don't try and crank it with the cylinders filled with liquid either oil or water as it will hydro lock and could Fudge up your motor, I.E.= bend rods, blow gaskets, blow a hole in a cylinder. Been there seen that.

I am looking for the info I have as to double check my memory. But from my recolection you leave the heads on the motor and measure from the meeting point of the head and block at the edges up to the bolt holes. And compare that to the intake measuring the mating piece. Measure both distance...

Yeah that will do it as it will lower and bring in the ports, so most likely your intake is having water and vacuum issues. I would bring it to a good machinist to get it figured out. Unless you know how and where to measure it.

How much did you have shaved off the heads, because if it's to much you have to mill the intake to sit lower as the heads are lower now. And the big indicator of your problem was the intake having a sealing problem. Most likely your water crossover is leaking straight into the lifter galley.