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The hooker supercomps in my wagon fit tight to the floor,fenderwell, and frame rail. It would require extensive mods.

The early A's are much narrower by far. I've come by more late model fenderwell headers by a 20 to 1 margin compared to the early ones.

Depends on how your system is setup. On my friends system when he hits the button it cuts out the motor ignition, so he will rev the motor up and hit the button at the same time he'll floor the gas. It takes some practice but he can shoot them about 5ft.

Trick for using a sawsall is to use masking tape or electrical tape as a guide. Just wrap the tape all the way around and use the edge as a guide.

And I bet those are Wal-Mart bolts.

80 miles but how many times has it been started and stopped? Heat temp up then down + full cooling.

With all the new stuff under the hood etc.. with the heat cycles you should re-check everything. All the collectors iv'e ever had did the same thing, it's part of the deal, unless you use real thick flanges.

I used to just remove the two nuts under the dash and remove the bolts that hold the plate at the base of the column and just move it just a little to the side and the manifold will come out without removing any linkage or steering box.

An in car fix I don't know. I had my engine out before the swap and that's when I drilled and tapped/plugged them. In the car I don'e think there's enough room. You might be able to find some self tapping machine type screws that you can screw in along with locktite and then grind off the...

Run it without and see. Iv'e seen flowmaster loose a baffle inside and rattle and plug. If man makes it It Can And Will F-up. Disconnect from the most forward point and try it out and see if it changes.

Is that thru the post office? For heavy stuff I use FedEx myself as it's much cheaper. Sometimes around a $1lb.

I have a set if you need MeMike just cover shipping

For the Early A Headman makes a set that all four tubes go thru the fenderwell. Whereas the Hookers have two thru and two under. The Headmans where Husslers.

I know the feeling of not being able to hear anything else. My friend did the same thing on his Snova. I have a set of the dynomax bullet mufflers with side exhaust. My car sounds like a boat in the water at idle and loud as all hell when I'm on it. It might have somthin to do with having 18"...

I have my doubts about it fitting. There is no room in the early A. Even the factory correct one there is no room. I have seen people cut the steering shaft and put in a joint with a bearing support to get around the problem. But the originals are still out there. I think I saw one on ebay...

Yes they will leak out exhaust. Some headers cover this spot but most don't. It works best to tap these holes and loctite in some recessed bolts. I don't remember what size I tapped mine.

Your gonna need a box end wrench 12pt. And pick up a cheapy also to bend for that custom work. As far a the starter I don't know. Look at this wrench I made up to tighten one header bolt. It saves me over an hour.

I've had those before when they were turbo tubes. They are just dented up glasspacks. Good if you like the pop when slowing down in gear. And popping a hell of a lot when you floor it. My dynomax bullet mufflers are the same way, just shorter.

I love my hookers only because they cause me to spend so much time with my car. It only takes 2 hours to put in the captive bolt on the passenger side. This let's me spend quality time thinking over things like world peace, cancer studies, and working on my hydrogen fuel cell system. But I...

I found a set of manifold's that were somehow missplaced in my vast and very very methodic storage system. And for the life of me I can't recall what they came off of. Driver's side #3614395 Night shift N5 Passenger side #2843953 Night shift N22 and it has no stove valve setup Any help...

I used VHT flat black high heat paint. And it's still on even after driving in traffic numerous times. I firmly believe in prep. Yup I do. I bought the headers used from a guy in Florida. They were covered in surface scale rust. So I wiped them down with a scotchbrite pad and sprayed them...

With my early hookers I have to run the small port gaskets as the others are just a little to wide and don't seal. I don't know if the later hookers go with the wider set. The early Hookers are setup for the smallport 273.

Well if you want you can send me the new ones you got, and I'll send you my old ones to cut. Only if you want that is.

Didn't know that hooker made a chassis header. I knew that TTI, Doug's, Spitfire, and a few others but not Hooker. Just looking at them I would say no because of the steering box and shaft. But I would contact hooker just incase, those look like they fit the 67 and up with the wider chassis.

They fit but you have to cut the inner fenders. And use the oil filter adapter.

Sorry to say but that just won't work without cutting it apart and relocating the collector, along with alot of other work. Iv'e heard about using dak headers but I just don't think it would work either. Iv'e got Hooker super-comps in mine but they require cutting the fenderwells. There are...

I wanna see your microwave if your gonna nuke that header! Because I have a huge bag of microwavable popcorn I've been holding onto since I bought it at a gov't surplus sale. It came from one of our submarines if I recall correctly.