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Looks like it would be the same as the PLYMOUTH L I know I have some, but they are still packed up

A junk yard. Layson's might have them, but you better be ready to bend over for them.

Have you tried WD-40?

There's someone on here who sells the stripes, and you can have whatever engine size you want put in it. Looks just like the OE "340" stripes. IMO, that would be better than putting a badge on it.

Take it out. Chances are, they filled in rust holes with it. If so, it needs to be replaced with new metal. If it's just filling dents, pound/pull the dents out and get as smooth as you can with a hammer and dolly, then use filler to smooth it out.

I found them at a couple other places, but they are over $300.

Oh. When I used the mobile site, it didn't say that. Now that I used the desktop site, it does. Try calling and see if they can get it.

Rock Auto. $148.89

Have you checked with a regular windshield place? I was looking all over for a windshield for my 64 Barracuda, except for an auto glass place because I didn't think they'd have one. My ex walked into an auto glass shop and asked them, they got it in a couple days, and it was only a couple...

Probably 2600-2700

So even if you lock it with the key after you close the door, it still opens?

I often get my hard-to-find bolts from this place. They've never not had what I was looking for, no matter how off the wall. Don't know if they do internet sales or not though. http://www.ababaqa.com/

Looks good! I agree, you should do the beak, too. Maybe the cowl as well.

Especially if you don't read the quoted part first

It's also a good idea to get it warm before mixing :joker:

66 Cuda, that's a nice paint job! I like the color combo. I have a Karmann Ghia I was planning on painting almost the same color.

The one on ebay is in florida and no shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964-1966-PLYMOUTH-BARRACUDA-DODGE-VALIANT-WINDSHIELD-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45ecff992fQQitemZ300328917295QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_956

You should be able to find a new windshield fairly easy. I was surprised when I called a window place ant they had a couple in stock, and the price wasn't bad either. It was about 12 years ago, but if they had them then, I'm sure they should now.

The windows are interchangeable from 64-66. The tinting is faded to the point of being non-tinted on most, if not all. There is no aftermarket source. Many people who are selling them think they are gold. DO NOT pay $300-$400 for one, as there are plenty available for less, like the one Dave...

I got one from the guy that rjsjea posted the link to. The wiper motor block off was great, but the fan motor block off isn't quite right.

I saw a rat rod done with all the chrome scotch-brited to make it look brushed. It looked pretty good. Something like Exile Choppers makes their bikes.

I think you're right. Other than that, it looks the same. And you can always drill the hole for the latch, if the fiberglass hood has a place to mount the latch.

I think it's just a flat emblem on the '64 Valiant. '64 Barracudas had the latche hidden up in the emblem

I'm not sure. I could be wrong, but I don't think the hood release was built into the hood emblem like it is on the Barracuda and '65 Valiant.

The '64 Valiant hood is different from the '64 Barracuda IIRC because the body of the Barracuda takes after a '65 Valiant, not so much the '64 Valiant.

I'm still trying to figure out how you would paint with a vacuum.

When I was putting my Barracuda together, I found a place somewhere in Lemoore, CA (don't remember the name of it) that got me a new one and installed it for somewhere around $200. This was in '97 or '98

I picked the green, but I also think the Burnt orange color on the newer Dodges would look good with either a silver or matte black top. Something like that is what I plan on going with when I paint my duster (way down the road).

I think it would be better to fill and drill. When you fill them, make sure to jam the epoxy all down in the hole with a tooth-pick or skewer so it gets between the threads (or whats left of them) and stays in. Let it cure, then drill and screw the studs in.

Try cleaning the holes really good with the stuff you clean with before painting, then fill the stripped holes with some 2 part epoxy and carefully drill them out when it's dried, then carefully srew the studa back in.