Search results for query: *

They might only work in 67 & later a-bodies...I don't remember, but here's a thread with some ideas. 440 HP manifolds vs. headers

It might not be easy, but it can be done. I'm pretty sure that B-Body HP exhaust manifolds will fit in an early a-body. The only header options are to get some custom made, or find someone selling a set that was custom made.

Turned out nice. I sent mine to a guy to be restored a long time ago. It was in the late 90's before the internet had gotten so big, so he might have a website now, but I can't remember who it was. It wasn't cheap, but it was cheaper than any that I could find NOS (which Layson's had a monopoly...

Might have got lucky with one that was garaged or maybe a NOS piece from somewhere. I've only seen a couple that still had factory tint.

I think they came with a slight green tint, but the tint is faded out of most of them. Mine has no tint, but I'm pretty sure there's a sticker on it that says it is tinted. It's 3000 miles away right now, so I can't tell you exactly what the sticker says or looks like.

Go to a locksmith, not a dealership or key-cutter. Any locksmith should be able to do it.

:headbang:

I'm using poly spool mounts with a torque strap. I think I got the mounts from Mancini. Rubber/poly mounts should be good as long as you have a torque strap on it.

I'm starting to get a crack there, too, and yes, it is a lead seam. Mine is also cracking at the base of the A-pillar, which is also a lead filled seam.

Personally, I like it body color, but would be interested in seeing one in chrome.

I really doubt you could get a refund on them now after this long. Maybe you could try bending them into shape. If they are the same type of metal that they use on their repro emblems, then it's really soft and bends easily. I didn't want to try it on them after spending that kind of money, I...

Same exact thing happened to me. I think it took them close to 3 months to finally refund my money. They said they had to "investigate." I asked what was to investigate...I tried 3 sets of originals that all fit perfectly and theirs didn't...end of story. I finally got ahold of Rick, and...

I used some black silicone caulking and smoothed over the old cracked rubber piece with it. Spit works great to smooth out the silicone. I did mine about 12 years ago and it still looks great.

Layson's is hit or miss, and if you do go through them, deal directly with Rick. I've got emblems from them that were good, but I got tail light housings and lenses for my Barracuda, and the housings did not fit. They tried to say it was my cars body, but I had 3 sets of originals that all fit...

Cragar SS's are probably my favorite wheels on old cars. I'm on my second set on my Barracuda.

There are panels that will replace the push button panel. I think the manual cars only have the headlight switch in that panel, but I could be wrong.

I'm getting the same codes as you, P4Y for gold trim and AA1 for gold paint. I can't find anything about P5Y or AAA. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

I'll get one tomorrow if I remember. It kind of looks like the sliders used on drawers.

Is it a stock prop? My '64 doesn't have a spring loaded prop, it's a prop that latches in place and is released by slightly lifting the lid. It definitely holds the weight no problem.

Have we met yet? I didn't make it to Grand last week. I should be there this weekend. I'll try to remember it if I go.

I have a '65 Barracuda motorific slot car in the original box with the original radio shack price tag of $.69 on it. Not for sale, but shows that there is early Barracuda memorabilia and toys out there. I've seen cast barracudas, but can't remember where. I don't think I've ever seen a model one.

That's because it looks exactly like the '64 (or '64 1/2 for the picky ones) on the outside. Slight difference in dash on some (formula S)

SOunds like it will be a fun car! Where's rocklin?

If they are pressed in like the are on later a bodies, it's kind of a pain. I had to take it completely off and use a bench vice and sockets to press the old ones out and new ones in. If you're taking it completely apart anyway, then it won't really be too much of a pain.

If it's a mild 408, the 8 3/4 would be more than strong enough, plus you'll have the added advantage of easy gear changes.

I got a set of 13" Cragars on ebay about 10 years ago for $125, still in the box with the wax coating on them. I have 14"'s now, so I'll be getting rid of the 13's when I get tires mounted on the 14's.

Wasn't it the passenger side? Or have I been drinking too much?

They ran dual exhaust on my 64 Barracuda with the stock transmission cross member. The way they did it is ran the pipe from the driver side over to the passenger side, then both pipes run side by side through the stock cross member cut-out on the passenger side. The driver side pipe eventually...

There's one of those guys in my neighborhood who's really nice to my face, but I'm sure he's the one who's reported me about 3 times now. Once for "storing" a vehicle in my driveway, once for having a vehicle on jackstands in my driveway (son's drive lost a LCA bolt, so I had it on jackstands...

Paint it the color you want it. If you're getting a quality paint job, it shouldn't cost any more to change the color than it would to paint the stock color.