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So would the ones going to the lights themselves be fine?… 16 or 18ga I think ( nothing written on the wire itself….it figures…)

The supply wire is the one that was getting warm when I tested. I didn’t check any other wires.

So if I change the gauge of the main power supply wire to the harness I might be able to use it with the PIAA’s?

Maybe my PIAA bulbs (60/55W) draw more current than std. halogen lamps. I did notice Crackedback’s kits use 12 gauge wire?

Just be aware… those kits are made with 16 ga. wire…tried one on my Dart with PIAA halogen bulbs…30 secs and the wires were warm to the touch. I’d stay away!

I would say your taillights COULD BE brightened by just the headlight load being reduced on the entire lighting system....JMHO....

Hi Del. What LED H/L's did you get?

Steve...outstanding post!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Beat me too it!:thumbsup:

Buy a new M&H underhood harness from Year One.

Well, the “blinker arm” is solidly connected to the self-cancel tangs on the turn signal switch, so if the signals themselves wont cancel, the blinker arm cant be returning to center off.

That problem is in your steering column. The switch auto-cancellers are broken.

The M&H repro'd harness can be ordered either way....points or electronic ignition.

Always enjoy pics of Mike’s 273-4!!

Sounds like you’ve basically created CrackedBack’s workaround either accidently or on purpose.

I know it's not super accurate, but, have you noticed the AMP gauge jump or hold at far right position? This would indicate voltage (amperage) spikes that maybe blowing those cheap headlights? Just a thought...

M+H Harnesses, available through Year one...Reproduction Wiring Harnesses for America's Muscle Cars

Original 1970 starter...

Should move slightly to the discharge side, as you're drawing power from the system. You may have it wired backwards? Try turning on the headlights without starting the engine. What way does it move then?

From their website... https://www.rt-eng.com/images/8/8f/TachBoardManual_REV8.pdf

Glad to help...I know it helped me when I did my console tach install.....

This method works for the early console tachs that have an external sender...don't know if it works with dash tachs... Test the tach with a "D" size battery...take yellow wire and touch "+" side of D-cell battery, take black wire and connect to "-" side of D-cell battery, needle should move to...

(Really) Late update..."cosgig" is correct (thanks Geof!)...'67 goes into the "J" port of the bulkhead connector...'67's are always different than later A's.

Alrighty....mine's a '67 and thats what I was describing...I stand corrected.

OK...1st console harness plugs in in place of column-mounted reverse switch, then picks up lighting from radio plug under dash and continues to right kickpanel and grounds there, then connects to second harness that runs under carpet to console area to shift light and console reverse switch.

Basically just the reverse lights and console shift light, so not really the main haness.

It doesn't plug in there. There is one harness that goes under the dash lower lip from the steering column area to the right kickpanel area, and then plugs into another harness that runs from there, under the carpet, to the console area.

Wow...great service!

Hooking the 2 ammeter wires together will not fix your drain...all that does is take the ammeter out of the circuit, so you wouldn't have got the discharge indication on the ammeter at all.

...or you can retrofit your '67 switch by installing a jumper between the "P" and "R" terminals on the switch.... From "valiant.org"...Chris North wrote: Until 1968, the parking lights on US cars normally went off when the headlights were turned on. The early Plymouth Barracuda put a jumper...