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Maybe these links will help you, there are photos there too. http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/2/3973.html http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/2/4646.html

You have to love this car to do all this work to it. If you don't absolutely love this car, find another car in better shape. In the end, it will be cheaper. The '69 Valiant my buddy and I was in parts car condition but we just fell in love with it and wanted to learn on it and see it...

We did the front frame, torsion bar crossmember and floor pans in a '69 Valiant. Not much different than the '66 Barracuda, just a bit wider. We used the pan from a Dart which was longer, but the extra length is just a piece of floor pan that we removed at the back where the rear seat is. The...

Every time I've tried to fit a plastic one to a car, they don't fit right. Not sure what year of part I had ...tried to fit them to a '69 Valiant, a '75 Dart Sport and a '73 Dart Sport...always had to cut a little bit of it out.

Gasket scraper with lots of elbow grease and heat for the first thick layer. Then WD-40 in a spray bottle with wire brushes and scrapers/knives..whatever works. Then green scrub pads for that final thin layer. Then soap and water, then rinse with water. Then 2 coats of your favourite rust...

I need to derust my new hood too...I'm so afraid to sandblast it. I'm thinking I might just electrolosis it. Make a flat bed to lay it in with the washing solution etc. (see other threads about electrolosis or this one here if you're not sure what I'm talking about ->...

The walnut shell guy I mentioned earlier tells me they don't remove rust...just paint. Oh well...

There's a place here that uses walnut shells, apparently they don't heat up. Some guys I know that have lost expensive challenger parts to warpage recommend them and the walnut shell route, so my surface rusty replacement hood for my '65 Barracuda is going there.

Pray it's not your cowl, but it probably is at least a little. My rust free California Barracuda has pinholes on the drivers side that leak. Here's some photos of what you have to do to fix it....

The other day I had the opportunity to do some welding on my Dart Sport, with my buddies 4 setting flux core Lincoln (the same unit that did all those nice floor welds posted above). I have the same unit, but now I remember why I really want a proper mig welder. Even though I did say above...

Nice job on the quarterpanel SwettyBetty! I am by no means a good welder, and I did not do all the work on the floor above, my buddy Tom did most of it..but we have the same welders and I'm learning from him. If I was going to attempt lots of body work, I'd probably spring for a proper mig...

As you can see, anything that's not green or white was put in from a donor car(s)...pretty much everything from front to back and side to side except the trunk area.

After, with some POR15 applied.

All the hobby welding you see in these photos was done with a Lincoln wire feed welder, "Handywelder" or whatever they're called. 4 settings. 1/2 and High/Low. I would agree that you can blow holes easily and warp metal if you're not careful, but it can be done for sure. Just go slow.

Hey Yuri, do you have any close-ups of that rubberrizzed undercoat that you used on the roof? Did you roll it on or spray it on? I need to do the same thing for my '75 Dart Sport. The half vinyl is shot and rusty underneath. I'm planning on some por15 then some kind of painted on fake vinyl.

That's Master Series Silver. It got a coat of the shiny chassis black after that. Two coats of each actually. Prep was a lot of work...scrub, wash, rinse...multiple times. Scrap, scrub...rinse, spray with degreaser...all kinds of stuff. Took probably 80 hours under the car in total to clean...

To go from this, to this...you have to strip it off.

I've owned my less than perfect black Barracuda for 8 years now and I love it! I didn't know I would love a black car so much. Even though every little scratch, ding, blemish and paint flake shows, it's just an awesome classic look on a vintage car. It's sinister yet classy. I keep my car...

Sit on it? It'll likely take a lot of work, you might be better off just finding a new hood.

There are lots of different discussions on here about this, just search for words like Por-15, Master Series Silver, Rust encapsulation. The big issue is rust removal vs. rust encapsulation. It's really hard to remove ALL the rust...there is almost always a little bit left in there...

Hard stuff to find. I know www.dvap.com has lots.

I've cut small pieces of sheetmetal and held them into the hole with a magnet, then weld the small piece in. It kinda disappears.

I did some practice on my old work van door and got heavy warping like that. I learned some important stuff though!

I don't know, but I do know that Home Depot sells a lot of Lincoln parts and they're really good quality, brand name welders. You can also haggle with them, ask to speak to the manager of the tools department. I bought my welder that way. It's just a little crappy 4 setting wire feed Lincoln...

That one looks a lot nicer than the one I saw, however the one saw would be free to you. I should be going back to that place within the next 2 weeks.

How much are you willing to pay? I have some. I've seen them sell on ebay for $100 up.

Okay, I don't recall what it looked like but when I'm there I'll check it out and probably just get it. I think maybe it just said Signet. It was on the rear of the quarter panels. There might have been other emblems on the front, but the weeds were really high so I couldn't see.

Is a '67 the same? I just found this yard 1.5 hours from Ottawa with about 500 cars. There's one lonely '67 Valiant 2-door post. We're going to take the dash (excellent dash pad), visors, rear side glass, door trim, sill plate trim, possibly the rear seat and whatever we can scavenge. I did...

What do you do now if you get caught in rain while driving?

I doubt the hood will fit on a Valiant, however you might get the hood just to resell it, E-body stuff is always in demand and fetches high prices.