Sandblasting inside trunk and hood?

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I sandblasted the inside of my hood, but I stayed away from any panel that was part of the outer skin. In the trunk, I stayed away from the inside of the quarterpanels and tail panel but did everywhere else. Call me a chicken, but I was just being safe as I have seen the results of sandblasting the exterior pieces.

Jack
 
No way. To use the dry ice media to blast underside of a hood or deck lid would work but even then there are soo many hidden areas that cant be cleaned. Any other media will rain from these areas forever and ever.
My uncle (old timer body man) says ther is no way to seperate the understructure from the skin and put it back again without warping the skin.
I think I've figured out a way to prove him wrong. I wont go into details before I try it.
 
RedFish said:
No way. To use the dry ice media to blast underside of a hood or deck lid would work but even then there are soo many hidden areas that cant be cleaned. Any other media will rain from these areas forever and ever.
My uncle (old timer body man) says ther is no way to seperate the understructure from the skin and put it back again without warping the skin. I think I've figured out a way to prove him wrong. I wont go into details before I try it.
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Redfish... wat in the world are you going on about? Dry ice? To be honest i'm quite lost... and who said anything about seperating anything?

I'm gonna guess you mean that if i sandblast the hood sand will get in the nooks and crannies, and then never will i get it all out? Which doesn't matter much as it will be out of site, out of mind, and sealed in with some sealer and paint.

2moro i sandblast the inside of them things. (they're off the car, no worries). I'll keep the nozzle a ways from the metal where its not 2 layered. Which is only parts of the hood... i hope nothing warps.
 
I had a guy soda blast the inner structure on my hood - telling him to stay away from the outer skin and he still managed to warp it irreparably. Ended up buying a glass hood.
 
RedFish said:
No way. To use the dry ice media to blast underside of a hood or deck lid would work but even then there are soo many hidden areas that cant be cleaned. Any other media will rain from these areas forever and ever.
My uncle (old timer body man) says ther is no way to seperate the understructure from the skin and put it back again without warping the skin.
I think I've figured out a way to prove him wrong. I wont go into details before I try it.
Click to expand...

Redfish- I know a body man that does what you're talking about, and he says it is the best way to do it. If you drill several strategically placed holes before you separate the welds, then you will have locaters to make sure it goes back together in the same place.
 
if you keep the sandblasting in an angle to the surface and keep from staying in one spot will not warp the metal,the heat created from going straight on or staying in one spot too long is what causes warpage.and on the contrary about the sand in the nooks and crannies,it will absorb moisture and defeat the purpose of removing the rust.I use a full flowing air blower and a vacume cleaner and just keep moving around until it is clean,then do it again,and again it's time consuming but very worthwhile if done right.after you get it primed wait a few days and blow and vac some more then you can spray ospho in a garden sprayer into all the holes and edges and wipe it dry with paper towels.you could also use a sander and wirewheels to get all the paint and problem areas that you can with them and just sandblast the bad spots to minimize sanblast time.do your best to get the sand etc.out ! good luck
 
waggin said:
if you keep the sandblasting in an angle to the surface and keep from staying in one spot will not warp the metal,the heat created from going straight on or staying in one spot too long is what causes warpage.and on the contrary about the sand in the nooks and crannies,it will absorb moisture and defeat the purpose of removing the rust.I use a full flowing air blower and a vacume cleaner and just keep moving around until it is clean,then do it again,and again it's time consuming but very worthwhile if done right.after you get it primed wait a few days and blow and vac some more then you can spray ospho in a garden sprayer into all the holes and edges and wipe it dry with paper towels.you could also use a sander and wirewheels to get all the paint and problem areas that you can with them and just sandblast the bad spots to minimize sanblast time.do your best to get the sand etc.out ! good luck
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Thanx waggin, thats most helpful! I forgot sand can soak up moisture...wate+metal=bad days. Forgot those little rules...
 
70Duster440 said:
I had a guy soda blast the inner structure on my hood - telling him to stay away from the outer skin and he still managed to warp it irreparably. Ended up buying a glass hood.
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Wow....I was under the impression that soda blasting was incapable of warping sheet metal. I even went to a car show where a fella soda blasted an aluminum soda can and there was absolutely no warpage.
 
70Duster440 said:
I had a guy soda blast the inner structure on my hood - telling him to stay away from the outer skin and he still managed to warp it irreparably. Ended up buying a glass hood.
Click to expand...

Like he said ...glass hoods are $600. I warped mine and was being exremely careful to stay away from the outer skin.
 
intergalactica said:
Wow....I was under the impression that soda blasting was incapable of warping sheet metal. I even went to a car show where a fella soda blasted an aluminum soda can and there was absolutely no warpage.
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Well, the blaster looked big enough to do a ship and the "soda" looked like rock salt so I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the proper tools and experience.

I watched the guys on "Trucks" soda blast with an Eastwood unit this weekend, and it was very gentle.
 
There's a place here that uses walnut shells, apparently they don't heat up. Some guys I know that have lost expensive challenger parts to warpage recommend them and the walnut shell route, so my surface rusty replacement hood for my '65 Barracuda is going there.
 
72_Durstya said:
why not acid dip them?
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acid dip works but then you would need a baking soda water dip to neutralize the acid in those tiny nooks and crannys.
Step 3 would be a sealing paint dip I supose.
Alas the kiddy pool isn't quite big enough. LOL
My uncle says cutting all those spot welds and seperating the 2 layers isn't the problem. Welding it back together without the heat warping the skin is the problem.
I have 2 67 model hoods that need restoring. I want to fixture the hood , skin down, in a cooled bed on the floor. Seperate it, stand the substructure, and tie it to the wall. Blast, paint and put right back together again. To work around and around with the spot welding will spead the heat but probably take up all of a day.
Adiquate and affordable materials in the fixture build is my puzzle to solve.
So far I have only ideas and yall are welcome to poke holes in it.
Square frame of 2"X6" lumber on the concrete floor, one side against the wall. 2 pieces of 2"X4" attached to the hoods substructure and spanned across to rest on the 2"X6" frame. 50 feet of garden hose coiled to the outer edges inside the frame. Ice cold well water circulated through the hose.
X number of cans of Great Stuff expanding foam that should form itself to the contour of the hood skin.
This much effort would demand nothing less than dry ice media.
Am I Krazy ?
 
I had my hood and decklid dipped........cleaned it good when I got them home, dried it w/ compressed air. Used epoxy primer and sprayed what I could then puddled a little and moved the hood around so it would get all the corners, till it came out the corners.
 
The walnut shell guy I mentioned earlier tells me they don't remove rust...just paint. Oh well...
 
RedFish said:
acid dip works but then you would need a baking soda water dip to neutralize the acid in those tiny nooks and crannys.
Step 3 would be a sealing paint dip I supose.
Alas the kiddy pool isn't quite big enough. LOL
My uncle says cutting all those spot welds and seperating the 2 layers isn't the problem. Welding it back together without the heat warping the skin is the problem.
I have 2 67 model hoods that need restoring. I want to fixture the hood , skin down, in a cooled bed on the floor. Seperate it, stand the substructure, and tie it to the wall. Blast, paint and put right back together again. To work around and around with the spot welding will spead the heat but probably take up all of a day.
Adiquate and affordable materials in the fixture build is my puzzle to solve.
So far I have only ideas and yall are welcome to poke holes in it.
Square frame of 2"X6" lumber on the concrete floor, one side against the wall. 2 pieces of 2"X4" attached to the hoods substructure and spanned across to rest on the 2"X6" frame. 50 feet of garden hose coiled to the outer edges inside the frame. Ice cold well water circulated through the hose.
X number of cans of Great Stuff expanding foam that should form itself to the contour of the hood skin.
This much effort would demand nothing less than dry ice media.
Am I Krazy ?
Click to expand...

Hmm, i read in another post about glueing. Apparently there is a product out there you can use to glue on body panels, no welding needed. Why not glue the inners back to the hood? Would eliminate the heat problem, and is supposed to work just as well as welding.

Sandblasted today. Warped the hood, but i don't think it is enough to be major...i can't see it. But i can feel it a lil, so i guess i'll see better when its painted...aww well. Trunk turned out beautifully however.
 
65s,
I'm not sure the elctrolosis is going to work in your case. I think it is a line of site thing. You may want to try Muratic acid for a hood. It takes a little longer but does work well. Just make sure you follow the instructions as it does give off vapours.

Jack
 
I soda blasted all my body panels and sandblasted the underneath and similar areas. I used industrial equipment, but the media was like regular baking soda.

blasting.jpg
 
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