walkintree
Well-Known Member
Good idea or no, i hear it can warp the metal, but it seems pretty thick?
No way. To use the dry ice media to blast underside of a hood or deck lid would work but even then there are soo many hidden areas that cant be cleaned. Any other media will rain from these areas forever and ever.
My uncle (old timer body man) says ther is no way to seperate the understructure from the skin and put it back again without warping the skin. I think I've figured out a way to prove him wrong. I wont go into details before I try it.
No way. To use the dry ice media to blast underside of a hood or deck lid would work but even then there are soo many hidden areas that cant be cleaned. Any other media will rain from these areas forever and ever.
My uncle (old timer body man) says ther is no way to seperate the understructure from the skin and put it back again without warping the skin.
I think I've figured out a way to prove him wrong. I wont go into details before I try it.
if you keep the sandblasting in an angle to the surface and keep from staying in one spot will not warp the metal,the heat created from going straight on or staying in one spot too long is what causes warpage.and on the contrary about the sand in the nooks and crannies,it will absorb moisture and defeat the purpose of removing the rust.I use a full flowing air blower and a vacume cleaner and just keep moving around until it is clean,then do it again,and again it's time consuming but very worthwhile if done right.after you get it primed wait a few days and blow and vac some more then you can spray ospho in a garden sprayer into all the holes and edges and wipe it dry with paper towels.you could also use a sander and wirewheels to get all the paint and problem areas that you can with them and just sandblast the bad spots to minimize sanblast time.do your best to get the sand etc.out ! good luck
I had a guy soda blast the inner structure on my hood - telling him to stay away from the outer skin and he still managed to warp it irreparably. Ended up buying a glass hood.
I had a guy soda blast the inner structure on my hood - telling him to stay away from the outer skin and he still managed to warp it irreparably. Ended up buying a glass hood.
Wow....I was under the impression that soda blasting was incapable of warping sheet metal. I even went to a car show where a fella soda blasted an aluminum soda can and there was absolutely no warpage.
acid dip works but then you would need a baking soda water dip to neutralize the acid in those tiny nooks and crannys.why not acid dip them?
acid dip works but then you would need a baking soda water dip to neutralize the acid in those tiny nooks and crannys.
Step 3 would be a sealing paint dip I supose.
Alas the kiddy pool isn't quite big enough. LOL
My uncle says cutting all those spot welds and seperating the 2 layers isn't the problem. Welding it back together without the heat warping the skin is the problem.
I have 2 67 model hoods that need restoring. I want to fixture the hood , skin down, in a cooled bed on the floor. Seperate it, stand the substructure, and tie it to the wall. Blast, paint and put right back together again. To work around and around with the spot welding will spead the heat but probably take up all of a day.
Adiquate and affordable materials in the fixture build is my puzzle to solve.
So far I have only ideas and yall are welcome to poke holes in it.
Square frame of 2"X6" lumber on the concrete floor, one side against the wall. 2 pieces of 2"X4" attached to the hoods substructure and spanned across to rest on the 2"X6" frame. 50 feet of garden hose coiled to the outer edges inside the frame. Ice cold well water circulated through the hose.
X number of cans of Great Stuff expanding foam that should form itself to the contour of the hood skin.
This much effort would demand nothing less than dry ice media.
Am I Krazy ?