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it gives about 3/4", you have to move the spring perches on the axle tubes also.

RMS with rod ends.

I just purchased the tubular arms from RMS and the are very nice. They are marked Right and Left and need to be installed that way. I would send what you got back and get the RMS arms like joe says. You also have your choice of bushings or rod ends.

I have an early a and had an idler arm rub even with the Dougs headers. What helped to minimize it was I hooked up the exhaust system and loosened the header bolts at the heads. Then I GENTLY jacked up the whole exhaust system, headers and all. I believe I gained 1/4" and the idler arm rub was...

Thanks for the link aar, they look good and RMS has a good reputation. Good price as well.

I am looking to upgrade my upper control arms to tubular. CAP is not being considered. The PST and magnumforce look the same. Anyone have experience with these? Are there others to consider? I have the 73-up disc setup on my 66, and I am looking for more caster. I already used the offset...

I used the 002 & 003 springs on my 3000# car and they initially raised it up a couple of inches but they settled down. These springs work great at the strip but are a little harsh on the street.

the spindles, rotors, calipers, upper control arms and upper and lower ball joints will be needed to convert your 64 to disc. The master cyl, front brake hoses and proportioning valve will also be needed. The lower control arms can be used off your 64, but I suggest replacing the bushings. The...

I used the offset shackles and hangers on my 66 Dart. I had the rear narrowed by a local shop and he had me fit the rims/tires in the stock wheel well and I measured and marked where the tire/wheel was centered and he narrowed it and supplied custom axles. Biggest tire I can fit is a m/t...

stance is perfect on my 66 with 002 &003 springs and 6cyl torsion bars up front. It took a couple of months for them to settle down. And they work great at the track!

I have them on my 66 dart, they ride stiffer than stock for sure and they raise the rear up but settled down nicely. They work well on the launch.

When I first put the SS springs on my 66 it raised the rear 3", but after a few months they settled out real nice, the car has a nice stance now.

My brother had a 66 cuda 273 4 speed car, 7-1/4 rear with 3.23's. First time clutch was dropped at 3000 the pinion shaft broke. But driven easily, it will last a long time.

my 66 took the 111" mopar connectors, I imagine your 68 is at least 111".

how 'bout early a's? Custom cage only, or is there as kit out there that I can weld up? I will be needing one as well, and a 4-6 point is what have in mind.

Been there, but if it was easy there would be more chevy guys jumping over to our side.

10" drum and disc brake a bodies are the same.

I have a dropped center link for 67-72 cars that I bought for my 66 but it was too wide. PM me if you need it.

wound up ruining mine to get them out. If they are really rusted in there you can cut them at a place where you can swing a hammer to drive them out. Hope you don't need to do this, the tool should grip them well enough to drive them out.

I got the mopar ones from Mancini for the 111" w. b. I will weld them in even though you can bolt them if you want.

The center link that I bought on ebay said it was for 66-72 cars. The Schumacher engine swap book says to swap a v-8 into a /6 car you need the steering center link from a v-8, 64-72 car. The one I bought was definitly wider and drops down another inch in the center. I don't know if the pan will...

I found that Mancini has the mopar performance parts cheaper than Summit and it is enough to cover the freight in most cases. I also buy from Bob Mazzolini, he doesn't rape you and he knows mopars and races them.

on my 66 the super stock springs are stiff and raise the car quite a bit, maybe 2", but for a 2900# car it is probobly a little stiffer than a 3200# car would be. they are 3000# springs.

Last night I installed a V-8 center link to replace the /6 one in the car. Now the drivers side inner tie rod end rubs the torsion bar slightly. The V-8 link seemed to be a little longer than the /6 piece. It seems like the pitman arm needs to be longer with the V-8 link, but I have not heard...

Thanks! I'll center the tire in the space between the spring and lip and measure flange to flange on the wheels, should get it where I want it.

I just moved the rear springs against the frame rails on my 66 and am fitting 235/60R-15 BFG drag radials in the wheelwells to measure for the rear housing to be narrowed. Is 1/2" clearance enough between the spring and the tire and the wheel lip and the tire? The tires will fit if I center them...

That nut on the very end of the torsion bar you are refering to may be the lower control arm pivot stud. The torsion bar adjuster is accessed from under the car.

I used a sawzall and cut a slit in them and they came out

My 66 weighs 2800 right now with the /6 and 904. When I put the 360/904 in it I expect it to be pretty close to the same weight, maybe 2900. Should I use the 3000# SS springs? The car will see a lot of track action. I am going for a 60's look with the car a little high instead of the modern...

Mine were stuck pretty bad as well. I wound up buying new ones, so if you don't want to reuse them just cut it with a cutoff wheel and drive it out