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'67-72 A-Body Products look half-way down the page, part number TQA. They are sold through mancini if i recall. I installed one in my 66 with the poly loc mounts. Its plenty solid given my TTI's havent kissed my torsion bars yet, and they only have 3/16 of an inch clearance. This way you wont...

from what ive read *takes grain of salt* API SM is federally mandated to be no more than 800 ppm zinc/phos, API SN is 600. the happy zone for flat tappet setups is 12-1400, once again, this is what ive read from numerous sites *more salt* and books. Now a product that Ive been running thats...

NAPA 1215 is the same micron rating as a comparable 1515, 1068, or 1085. Biggest difference is the filter material. those numbers are longest to shortest. 21 micron on all 3, and a kickass beta ratio of 2/20 = 6/20. To break it down heres how it works. According to the beta ratio chart, the...

The factory 273 port exhaust manifolds will choke that 360 down hard. I used a 73-76 A-body 360 manifold set in mine with a u-joint steering column coupler to clear. win-win - clearance and no more hot garbage pot-coupler. Motor mounts - I went with schumacher conversion mounts and poly-loc...

These. http://www.magnumgaskets.com/ I believe they have oil pan gaskets with molded in windage trays available too. I know they do for big blocks, and they offer the silicone side seals for the rear main seal caps too, just like 440source. Anyway, check em out and see what they have for small...

I edited my post since you responded, I tried to catch it in time. Sitting here cooking dinner and had some after thoughts....haha so anyway, my main after thought is, you're stuck with the timing cover you have, since its a 360. All 360s 72+ have the timing tab on the drivers side, so, 70+...

Make your life easy, get brackets, pulleys, P/S, and water pump from a 70+ small block, of any displacement. Only hang up is the 273/318/340 timing covers wont work due to the end seal to pan U. 360s are larger, and the timing tab is on the drivers side. but with an aluminum water pump and...

anyone ever drilled and tapped their intake in the rear where the intake covers the rear cooling ports in the head? then routed the ports via tubes to the thermostat boss, under the stat itself? My thoughts are ive seen it done on a couple bowtie engines in sand-dragsters that a couple of my...

yea!!! thats field coil case vent!! well, whats left of one anyway. there used to be a baffled nipple about an inch long that was a part of the "grommet" they tend to rot and fall off. id run it. both of my nippy-minnies have rotted baffles. no big deal, never given me any issues. you can see...

BBD's have treated me very well. ive rebuilt quite a few for friends and other people, havent had one come back yet. those damn holleys though, they have burned me more than once. ive only had one that actually ran well. one out of 6. their limited adjustability doesnt help much. ive converted...

2210 or 2245 holley? ive NEVER had good luck with either one.

74 dart 360 drivers side with a sweet mfg stainless steering coupler did the trick for me in my 66. manual steering though. sofar so good!

what will the dynamic compression be at? thats what really matters to figure out if your combo will be happy with pump gas. that and the head chamber design, material, iron or aluminum, and effective quench if applicable. im going keith black icon flat tops that will be zero decked in my build...

era correct chrysler red block and heads, 68 D100 truck valve covers, wrinkle finish, 74 truck pulleys and alternator brackets, 87 gran fury highway patrol 318 topped with a 4175 holley and a hand painted air cleaner lid and a sealed power N.O.S. chevy corvair .060 over piston for an oil filler cap.

i did check those out actually! but then it occurred to me, if .040 quench is ideal, i know my engine will NOT have quench, but there IS that little area where the heads will hang over the cylinders on the very edge of the bore, and if i zero deck this monster (i know its useless without quench...

yessir. im planning out a 318 of my own, .030" over using kb167's and a XE268 comp cam, im actually going with the K20-223-3 kit for ease of parts and the price, ill be zero decking mine, 9.588 deck height, stock rods (length matched) and cast crank, later model 360 open chamber cop car heads...

I talked to the machine shops here around town and the general concensus on building quench into my particular combo will take some serious milling and very deeeeep pockets....so ive come to the realization that ill have to do without, and after reading up on numerous open-chamber head builds on...

machined surface to a machined surface you should be alright, i made my own gasket anyway. ive seen more than one original mopar engine that didnt have any exhaust manifold gaskets, same principal.

....BRILLIANT! no seriously thats pretty creative, i like. for my heads i just recessed the holes with a 27/64 drill and green sleeve retained in 1/2 inch frost plugs. worked well.

many thanks, im really digging this input!!! ok so i did some serious reading up on quench (sometime when abodybomber posted about it, thanks haha) and dynamic compression ratio to determine the required octane. My current heads average 74cc chamber volume un-milled but can be as high as 77....i...

gracias! i read up on both of those builds, makes me feel better about what i planned on. however now im wanting to lean towards the existing flat tops and milling my open chamber later 360 4323345 casting heads .040 to .050 (8 to 10cc's, 69 to 64 roughly) to keep compression up, granted the...

im running one in my early-a from an 87 vintage gran fury. that and a napa 1085/ wix 51085 i have miles of clearance. you can run a 1515, 1068, or a 1085. the difference is lengths.

so after discovering a nasty crack in my current 318's block, opportunity showed its face to build up an engine, why? because i can, and I want it done my way. however im trying to keep cost on the down low as much as possible without cutting corners. ive never truly built my own motor before...

agreed pishta, ive located a fresh mid 70s .030 over 318, forged aluminum flat top pistons, .010/.010 cast crank, factory rods. waiting for measurments on how far in the hole @ TDC the pistons are, and i figure i can have my current heads (360 heads, 1.88 int) and intake milled accordingly...

good points...the block isnt that important. I just dont want to be cruising around and KABOOM!!!! BILLY MAYS HERE!!!! :D i dont think ive been specific on this crack, it starts IN the passenger front freeze plug bore, and ends IN the middle freeze plug bore.....its cracked perfectly centered...

thank you all kindly, since this crack is as straight as straight can possibly get, and so perfectly centered from freeze plug to freeze plug, is the integrity of the block compromised especially since the motor mount is right next to it? should i worry about this spreading over time with heat...

When I did my 318 swap in my 66 it always had a mystery antifreeze "weep" it would go through half a gallon of coolant about every 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. figured it was the block drain plug threads on the passengers side, gooped em up, problem seemed to go away. Then I installed an aluminum radiator...

heres the one in my 66, no p/s though....squareback alternator, my front end is the 70+ aluminum water pump.

bingo! NGK V-powers, helps direct the spark to the edge of the center electrode, promoting a better flame kernel. I switched from champions to GR4's in my smallblock, made a very noticeable difference in start up, idle quality, and throttle response. im very pleased.

if the leak is still hard to pinpoint after trying that get some UV dye and a blacklight. works like a dream!