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my car runs a 904 automatic, 1993 dodge dakota v8 manifold (other years work just fine) the part where it bolts onto the head is plained down quite abit, 1/4" comes to mind but I forget, 2 washer shims under biscuit engine mount on drivers side and nothing hits with factory power steering

why not just bend the top of the pedal assembly a little outward to allow the pedal to pull the cable further out of the firewall before it hits the stop

1/2 a quart every 8K is actually considered normal oil usage by most car companies

if the heads or block has been machined the intake will need to be to fit the different angle that is now there

sounds like bad fuel pump or bad crank sensor

looks like one of two things could be wrong, its either the wrong engine mount rubber isolators or wrong center link

number one sounds like junk, number 2 sounds like it might be usable and number 3 sounds like a chrysler industrial engine like RV or campervan

if the water pump only misaligned by a fraction of an inch you can buy crank pulley shims on ebay from Richard Ehrenberg

I don't have any issues with dual exhaust with power steering, Dakota manifolds with drivers side plained down some, and full 2 1/4" dual exhaust nothing hits and it flows better then the factory manifold that was there, car was always power steering, locks and windows were added by me

what the one in the picture of my avatar? its a 66 valiant (candian) it has 5x4" (same as yours) bolt pattern with 14" slotted aluminum american racing wheels, hydroboost drum brakes all way around (stops on a dime) its v8 with power steering, locks and windows you can upgrade to disc brakes...

Schumacher mounts in early A body are waste of time and money, as others have said v8 bolts into the K frame without issue just have to change center link of course you need the proper manifolds and throttle cable/pedal

sounds like transmission dust cover

brackets, pulley and much more are different, cheapest is to get a small block pump off of a member on here that has everything on it already and ready to bolt on

add a jar of seafoam engine oil treatment in the oil and drive it for a few miles, drain oil refill and check compression, sounds like rings have never had chance to seat wasn't sure before, sounded like high milage engine but you confirmed its not

just looks like a high milage or improperly done test to me

unless your car uses a dedicated belt to run A/C only you need to change pulleys or reroute belt to make everything work without the compressor there

just put an idler pulley in, or put a shorter belt on

I think there are a few good rebuilders on ebay

exactly, if the engine didn't come with it why bother; V belts rarely have issues, just like any rubber product they have a life span and need to be replaced

serpentine belts were not made on the aspens or volares, or diplomats. the first serpentine belt on LA engine was 1991 in dakota only if your going with a serpentine belt setup get one off a magnum engine, there 7 rib and easy to get parts for 1991 Dakota is 6 rib and hard to get tensioners and...

pretty much yes, if your trying to get fuel mileage out of a jeep, any 4x4 or a truck then you need a car; people who use trucks for trucks are not worried about fuel mileage, it is what it is, can't get 50 MPG from a truck

park the car and get something different for DD, that way when you come back to the car in the evenings and weekends the drive is that much more special and its not costing you $30+ a day to travel people who drive trucks as a car, or drive RWD cars that get under 20MPG as a daily driver for...

newer semi's are getting PVC systems too so they can pass emissions testing

I do not trust anything carrying hot oil into the vehicle, one failure is all it takes electronic is the way to go

best thing you can do with a chrome pan is sand blast it and paint it; chrome rusts very bad on oil pans, and usually there china built

mechanical pumps suck theses days; with an electric pump you don't even need a choke, pump once start and go! sounds like the OP's pump maybe drawing too much power and is hooked into the same power source as the ignition, or the regulator went bad and the carburetor is getting more then 9 PSI...

yes you can swap the intake and run a carb, but if you have all the parts from the vehicle EFI is very simple to get running

your just generous, bet buddy wasen't long coming to get it? around these parts a good 318 will run you $500, not running and considered a core is about $200 if its mounted to a trans I suggest the OP get it running, real simple like; that way it will be worth more

why would you trade in a working points distributor? there a real good thing to have in the trunk for backup, nothing else there are still people who like them

bad thrust bearing, another thought; why would you put an aluminum pulley dress up kit on that greasy old worn out engine for?